Garage Door Jamb Framing

[vtjon]

I know this has been a common question and I've found several posts but I cannot determine the correct way to do it.

I have framed my garage door opening. It is 3" wider than the expected door. I plan to frame the jamb with 2x6 SPF. The walls are 2x4.

The building will have vinyl siding/brick moulding and I want to put some of the Aztec PVC trim over the jamb (I think). It should end up matching the way my house garage door is framed. I've attached a picture. I don't want to wrap the jamb in metal.

Should my 2x6 be flush with the inside wall and protrude past my OSB? I will be able to cover the faces and edges with the Aztec trim boards and brick moulding?

 

[matt_i]

I would worry the joints in the Azek would leak. That looks like an assembly of brick molding (trim piece with stepped face) and a flat (??)

If you can buy continuous lengths that you don't have to seam I think it would get better. I dont think that has the same rigidity as wood and will need more support on the vertical.

Even though you don't want metal, at least 1 piece of it for a drip cap would go a long way.

 

[firebirdparts]

The whole question of "should I" is getting into the finer points of where the door trim will be. Personally I would bring the 2 x 6 all the way in. You will be putting 3 big lag screws into it at the flag bracket on each side, plus your track brackets. But that's just totally me talking from convenience. If you ran those through OSB it would be okay. Sheetrock, maybe not okay.

 

[kaymccampbell]

I put the 2x6 flat on the wall and butted the drywall up to it. It made for an easier install of the tracks. Then my Azek lined the opening. If you use BigStretch caulk, it'll stick to Azek, and move with it. After it gels for a few weeks, you can cap it with one of the prettier trim matching caulks.

 

[vtjon]

I might have been a little unclear. I will have a floor to ceiling 2x6 on the face of my inside wall. This will be for my lag bolts and track.

I am trying to figure the detail for the side and head jambs. I think I should run my 2x6 jamb flush with the outside wall. It protrude inside by 1.5" and I will **** my inside 2x6 "H" to it. I think my brick moulding will attach to the outside face of my 2x6 jamb and I will trim the face of the jamb with 3/4" Aztec PVC trim. This should cover the 2x6 if the PVC comes in the right width. I should be able to get long enough length and just have to caulk the corners.

Does this make sense? The J Channel on my existing siding goes against the brick moulding as you can see in the picture.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

 

[Innovate1]

There seem to be lots of ways to do this and it causes a LOT of confusion. A flat 2 x on the inside of the wall seems to be somewhat standard to attach the door tracks to as it ensures the track bracket screws hit solid wood and not between studs or just sheeting or less. The inside edge can be flush with the last layer of jamb material as the door seal will cover it.

The most common way (because it's cheapest?) seems to be start with a 3" over width opening, put 2x on each side and wrap with coil stock. But coil stock dents easily.

If you put a 2 x and then your trim the trim will overlap the door. Not a huge deal but why make the opening smaller. You could use a thinner material like plywood or 3/4 boards instead of 2 x.

Then there is whether to let the jamb board extend past the outside face board or not. On my house it does stick out slightly and looks good. On the garage I kept them flush with the outside edge of the exterior sheathing and put the face board over it, leaving a slight reveal like on a standard door or window trim. Either way works will IMHO, it just looks a little different.

All the variations just about drove me over the edge...

 

[Innovate1]

I might have been a little unclear. I will have a floor to ceiling 2x6 on the face of my inside wall. This will be for my lag bolts and track.

I am trying to figure the detail for the side and head jambs. I think I should run my 2x6 jamb flush with the outside wall. It protrude inside by 1.5" and I will **** my inside 2x6 "H" to it. I think my brick moulding will attach to the outside face of my 2x6 jamb and I will trim the face of the jamb with 3/4" Aztec PVC trim. This should cover the 2x6 if the PVC comes in the right width. I should be able to get long enough length and just have to caulk the corners.

Does this make sense? The J Channel on my existing siding goes against the brick moulding as you can see in the picture.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

I would suggest you sketch up a cross section. Much clearer than trying to describe it.

As someone else noted, a Z flashing on the top is a good idea. I have a door there this is missing and even though it is caulked well I think some water is getting in and causing the jamb to sag.

 

[vtjon]

I have been thinking about this today and I put together a couple of drawings. First, is how it's framed now. It's a 2x4 wall, 18' 3" opening with double jack studs. There is also an LVL beam that's not shown in this drawing.

The next drawing is how I have considered to finish it. It would be:
- 2x6 SPF along the jamb
- 1" x 5 1/2" PVC trim
- Brick Moulding on the outside (I think this is 2" wide?)

After drawing it out, it seems to closely match my house, at least from the outside. On the inside, you will see the edge of the 2x6 jamb and the PVC trim. On my house, you only see the PVC trim edge.

With this setup, I am losing 2" inches of width but should give me a tighter seal. Will my siding/j-channel work out? Any other thoughts?

Other alternatives (mentioned above), would be to cover the jamb with OSB (maybe 5/8") and put the 1" PVC trim on top. This would take up my 3" jamb spacing as expected. This would limit where wood could get wet. That said, I would caulk the corners and put the drip edge in. I have some 2x6 treated I could put in the jamb too.

 

[PassnThru]

There seem to be lots of ways to do this and it causes a LOT of confusion. A flat 2 x on the inside of the wall seems to be somewhat standard to attach the door tracks to as it ensures the track bracket screws hit solid wood and not between studs or just sheeting or less. The inside edge can be flush with the last layer of jamb material as the door seal will cover it.

I put up what are basically decorative 1X6 boards on the inside of my garage that the tracks are attached to. They aren't actually attached to the 1 by boards, they are attached to the door framing. If the opening is framed correctly and you aren't trying to frame it several inches smaller than the door (and why would you?) then between the jack and king studs you have plenty of meat to attach to for the tracks.

 

[NockOn]

I'm in the same dilemma LOL

I just posted a cad picture of mine today in my question. I notice your sketch is not quite accurate. If you leave your 2x6 full width, that's 5 1/2 minus your flat 2x6(1 1/2") that leaves you 1/2" sticking out on the outside. In my case I was thinking of just butting my sheathing right up to it.

Would be nice to see pictures of how others dealt with this.

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

My suggestion is to put the 2x6 trim board even with the Inside 2x6 on flat. Having installed a few hundred doors in my lifetime, the installation will be cleaner and better looking. If you Don’t want the Jamb 2x6 extending past the exterior sheathing, rip it down. It will all be covered with trim board. For your jamb, you could use 5/4 x 6 deck boards. That would gain you 1/2” on each side and be easier to rip down.

 

[PassnThru]

A standard 7 by 9 door is 9 feet wide. The framed opening for a 7 by 9 door is 7 feet tall by 9 feet wide.
You have three inches width with the standard jack stud and king stud framing. Installed properly, your garage door tracks will have plenty of meat to attach to.
If you don't frame in a conventional manner, then you will have to work it out.
You can attach a 2 by to the existing framing but that just means that your door is intruding 1.5 inches into your inside space and is only as strong as how you attached the 2 by to the real framing.

 

[gnpenning]

A standard 7 by 9 door is 9 feet wide. The framed opening for a 7 by 9 door is 7 feet tall by 9 feet wide.
You have three inches width with the standard jack stud and king stud framing. Installed properly, your garage door tracks will have plenty of meat to attach to.
If you don't frame in a conventional manner, then you will have to work it out.
You can attach a 2 by to the existing framing but that just means that your door is intruding 1.5 inches into your inside space and is only as strong as how you attached the 2 by to the real framing.

These kind of posts hurt my head. First off a 7 x 9 door is 7 wide and 9 tall not the other way around as posted. The correct way to talk about it is 9x7 for 9 wide and 7 tall.

Next for the best sealing the finished opening should be a 1" under in width and a 1/2" in height.

Last, for the best mounting surface a flat 2x on the inside makes a much better mounting surface than directly mounting to Kings and Jack studs.

I need to go take some aspirin...