Garage Door Opener Install Help?

[dragonle87]

Backstory: So about to close on a new house in a couple of weeks. New house doesn't come with garage door opener which is fine by me. Prefer to select my own GDO (Chamberlain Belt with Battery Back-Up). The garage is fresh with some type of fiberglass garage door and finished ceiling.

So my main question is how difficult is it to install a new GDO? Can't seem to find mounting brackets for GDO motor. Not sure if there any specific ones to use. And also not sure about the header install if I need to put a support bracket or not. I believe the walls are finished as well (no wooden frames showing)

 

[LB-1911]

You may find the info at the link below informative.

Tips for a faster, better installation of a new garage door opener.


Tip 5: Buy heavy-duty angle iron

 

[Stuart in MN]

The door opener will come with perforated metal straps you use for mounting them. You can look at the installation manual here: https://www.chamberlain.com/garage-door-openers/c/belt-drive-openers

 

[dragonle87]

You may find the info at the link below informative.

Tips for a faster, better installation of a new garage door opener.


Tip 5: Buy heavy-duty angle iron

Where can I find HD angle iron or brackets?
Didnt find anything in the garage section at Lowes or Home Depot

 

[mjeff87]

At the Lowes around here, they are located in the hardware aisle. There's a small section of sheet metal, threaded rod, and strapping/angle iron. It's maybe only one shelf-section wide, and easy to overlook.

 

[RegeSullivan]

You can hang it on two lengths of metal strapping at about 45 degree angles opposing each othet. The rail will keep it from moving forward and back and a little sideways play doesn't hurt anything. Usually everything comes with the GDO. With the exception some doors, WayneDalton for instance, require a proprietary bracket to attach to the door.

Don't over think it. It's not very difficult just time consuming the first time you install one. Give your self a full day. After the experience of few installations... maybe an hour or so.

Sent from my SM-N950U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[BD1]

Not knowing your location, but I would get a estimate to have it done. You may find it's not bad at all to have someone do it . IF you have the funds.
If not do a search on installing. I used angle iron which was overkill , but that's how I am.

 

[Captain Spaulding]

In my experience, power has been a bigger PITA than brackets and framing. If power isn’t already there and you have to install an outlet anyway, consider a jackshaft opener.

 

[gnpenning]

What you are looking for is called pre-punched. The holes are 1inch apart. The stuff the box stores sell is different than what I use but will work. The **** straps that are in box stores openers is **** and on par with the crappy rails that are in the opener box. I use one piece rails, much stronger.

You need one horizontal piece to span the trusses/floor joists and 2 vertical pieces for mounting the opener.

Hopefully they prewired both high and low voltage wire for you. If you are lucky the sparky didn't put the electrical outlet dead center and directly were the opener will mount. If he did hopefully you have room to plug the opener in and not have the horizontal mount needing to be were the outlet is....... Yep, happens more often than not.

As far as the header use a stud finder and find out what is behind the sheetrock. You need something solid to mount to.

 

[dragonle87]

Thanks for all the info. I'll look into it.

 

[kbs2244]

I am sure current code call for an always hot outlet by the centered garage light.
It is there for an opener.

The door will come with directions on the mechanical installation.

 

[AndyL]

You need one horizontal piece to span the trusses/floor joists and 2 vertical pieces for mounting the opener. .

And a diagonal. Always a diagonal to prevent lateral shifts

 

[gnpenning]

And a diagonal. Always a diagonal to prevent lateral shifts

Definitely if you use the box store ****. If real pre punched is used it is only needed for openers that drop a long way below the trusses. Horizontal tracks for the garage door always need diagonal braces.

 

[AndyL]

15+ years installing doors - always a sway brace. It's needed period.

But what do I know.

 

[gnpenning]

15+ years installing doors - always a sway brace. It's needed period.

But what do I know.

Cool almost as long as I have. If you need a brace on let's say a 2" drop for a opener you may want to look at the pre punch you are using. Until then you should brace everything.

 

[purplezr2]

I was different then everyone else and used unit strut to hang my doors. I have jackshaft openers so mine are on the wall. But for the rest of the install I used unistrut.

Very easy to work work with and adjust to get everything square, etc.

 

[AndyL]

Cool almost as long as I have. If you need a brace on let's say a 2" drop for a opener you may want to look at the pre punch you are using. Until then you should brace everything.

No it's backup for when the bolts come loose or a cable rusts through or they try to operate it springless.

Wayne Dalton, liftmaster, garaga, steelcraft upwardor all require it as part of an opener install, leaving it out isn't an option.

 

[gnpenning]

No it's backup for when the bolts come loose or a cable rusts through or they try to operate it springless.

Wayne Dalton, liftmaster, garaga, steelcraft upwardor all require it as part of an opener install, leaving it out isn't an option.

Interesting in post 12 say always for lateral support, now you say on 2" no. Then you change and say it's safety for rusted cables or bolts coming loose or if they loose a spring???? I'm not sure what cable you are talking about rusting that would cause an opener to fall?? I can see one bolt coming loose but I can't imagine them all coming loose unless it's a very poor install.

I did a quick look through some of the manufacturer manuals to see if that is a requirement here and could not find any reference for what you described. Canada's requirements may be different than the US just like California requiring battery backup on all new openers, so it may be something different there than here??

I do agree for long-drops for openers do need diagonal braces on the openers and all door tracks should have a diagonal brace.

 

[LifeLongWNYer]

I am sure current code call for an always hot outlet by the centered garage light.
It is there for an opener.

Maybe, but I always put a switch on the wall which kills the receptacle. It is useful when I am working on the operator, or for some other reason, don't want the operator to start. ....such as when I am out of town.




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