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Garage door opener lights

warranty

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Jun 23, 2011
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Hi. This is actually my first post on this board--where I've been lurking for some time to read the knowledge and experience of others.

I have one of those Craftsman garage door openers that has two standard incandescent light bulb sockets but I was never very satisfied with the lighting: high wattage incandescent bulbs are now phased out, and the new 100W halogen bulbs' filaments apparently "droop" and burn out early when not mounted upright. I finally got off my **** and devised a solution I've been planning for some time, and I thought I'd share my solution here.

I ruled out CFL bulbs because they take a long time to "warm up" and reach full light output, and I ruled out LED replacement bulbs because I've read online reviews about their electronics interfering with the garage door opener's radio reception.

What I ended up installing are two 10W LED flood lights (these are meant for general in/outdoor use such as for landscape lighting) which I mounted on the garage door opener bracing. I extended the internal wiring of the garage door opener's lighting circuit (using Romex 14/2 NM-B wiring through a rubber grommet) into a metal junction box which is also mounted on the garage door opener bracing. The wiring is grounded, and then I just used wire nuts to connect the two fully grounded LED flood lights, aimed at a 45 degree angle at my two parking spots.

In this picture you can see the final result (no other lights are on):
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Here's a look at the junction box (you can kind of see the white Romex wiring extending from the garage door opener up into it):
attachment.php


I bought these LED flood lights from an US-based Amazon seller and I'm VERY happy with them; although these lights are also made in China (with laughable instructions), they seem much better made than some other cheap China-made lights reviewed on Amazon. The lights I bought are fully grounded (apparently some cheap lights have grounding wires that go nowhere to give the "illusion" of being grounded), the internal electronics are securely mounted and fully weather-sealed with silicone gasket, and I'm happy to see that its AC/DC converter board is even fused (again, some of the cheap lights don't have fuses, which is a fire hazard). Because everything is mounted in fully-enclosed aluminum housing there is absolutely no worries of radio interference either.

In my garage I do have overhead fluorescent lights, but with just these LED flood lights there's a "spot light effect" which gives me a feeling of looking at my cars as if they were museum displays. :) (Maybe it's just me, though)

So far, I'm very happy with my solution, and time will tell if my LED flood lights will last. They're supposedly engineered to run for hours at a time so they should be "over-engineered" as garage door opener lights.

One last look at the LED light itself:
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GCncsuHD

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Very nice, I have a few of those LED floods sitting around.


I actually swapped out my garage door lights for 100w equivalent CFL bug lights after we were having issues with bugs swarming into the garage each time the door opened. They do have a warmup period, but it never bothered me, plenty of light to get in, park, and turn the overhead lights on after shutting the garage door.

Though I may do some testing with some warmer rated LEDs effect on the bugs this summer, I may copy your idea.

Which Amazon seller did you buy from? And where is the fuse located on the housing? I have a similar looking 10W rated flood, but I saw no fuse anywhere.
 
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OP
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warranty

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Jun 23, 2011
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I bought from "LEDwholesalers" on Amazon--I have absolutely no affiliation with it whatsoever, of course. These are the lights I bought:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004DDQK0O/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The fuse isn't "replaceable" (not without de-soldering it from the board) and sits on the AC/DC converter board itself, which is housed in an aluminum housing. Here's an inside pic of the LED flood's electronics.
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GCncsuHD

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I bought from "LEDwholesalers" on Amazon--I have absolutely no affiliation with it whatsoever, of course. These are the lights I bought:

Thanks, that's actually the same seller, and the same light I bought, except the "warm white" version.
 

LS6 Tommy

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Northern NJ
That's a nice install, but I'm not sure if an aluminum enclosure can eliminate RFI problems. Hey, if it's working for you, that's all that matters, so who cares!

Tommy
 
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C96

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Nov 30, 2013
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welcome to GJ warranty, thanks for sharing.
Ive done somthing similar with mine but wired it to a 4' dual lamp fluorescent strip fixture that I had sitting around. Thinking about it, its been that way for about 10 years now. Damn, where does the time go?
Enjoy the site :thumbup:
 

LifeLongWNYer

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Oct 23, 2013
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South of Rochester, NY
Great idea, but I'm wondering where in the opener you connected the Romex to get the power for the LED's.

I've several openers but none have had problems so I've never opened them up. I've no idea what is inside them.

I did a similar installation in my current garage, to get a chandelier working, but all that I did was remove a bulb, and screw in an adapter which had a base like a standard light bulb, but had slots to accept an ungrounded plug. I works, but I'd like to do it better on my next such installation.



.
 

Mr_fixit

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Rustylvania
welcome to GJ warranty, thanks for sharing.
Ive done somthing similar with mine but wired it to a 4' dual lamp fluorescent strip fixture that I had sitting around. Thinking about it, its been that way for about 10 years now. Damn, where does the time go?
Enjoy the site :thumbup:

Me too.
 

67carl

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Dec 10, 2013
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California
Looks good! I was in the same boat as you - bad lighting from the opener that kept burning out. My solution was to install can lights on both sides of the car, 1 in front of the car (by the man door going into the house) and one in the adjoining laundry room. I then installed an Occupancy/Motion detector to them so whenever the garage door or the man door opens the lights come on. So much better!
 

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OP
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warranty

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Hi guys, thanks for the welcome.

@LifeLongWNYer: the Craftsman garage door opener I have is surprisingly simple inside. The electronics just consist of two circuit boards: a small "power board" and a larger "radio receiver board." The power board (1) powers the radio receiver board (2) controls the two lights with an AC relay and (3) powers the motor (with controls from the radio receiver board, of course). I just tapped my Romex extension wires into the existing lighting wires. A little "over done" but I'm a tinkerer like many of you. :)

@irregardless: the winged white car...it came from the factory that way so I swear I didn't rice it up. :)
 
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dankicksass

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Those lights look great. I have a couple Liftmaster 3280s, a few years ago I replaced the bulbs for the first time. Put in some CFLs off the shelf and they just didn't light up. Maybe the lamps run off DC in mine, no idea. I wound up buying 40W ceiling fan rated bulbs for them because I didn't want to replace them ever again. Not really adequate light, but no hassles. I have decent lighting in my garage anyway, once the light switch is on it doesn't matter if the door light is on.
 
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irregardless

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FTR:
I knew exactly what the car was...

I've owned plenty of their older brothers/sisters. (last count was 23, ranging from 1982-1990)
 

kbs2244

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When I did it I used two of the cheap halogen “work lights” mounted on the walls.
One aimed at the stairs from the garage to the house and the other between the cars.
Extension cord wiring to each.
With the timer turned to max we get almost 5 min to get ourselves and our stuff out of the cars.
 

dwm

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Southeast Michigan
For whatever it's worth, I have Cree 75W equivalent LED bulbs in both of my Craftsman openers and have no issues with radio reception. They're the 3/4 HP models, each one has two bulbs in it. Also have 24 Cree BR30 LED bulbs in the recessed fixtures in the ceiling which are on an occupancy sensor. Of course I haven't tried to close the door from a super long distance, but I didn't notice any change when switching from incandescent to the Cree LEDs. I can still close the door from a good way down my driveway, which is over 300' long. Same with opening, but of course the light usually isn't on when I open.

I do know that some LED bulbs emit more noise than others. Especially when on TRIAC dimmers. I've been through a lot of LED bulbs over the years but have settled on the Cree because they've been silent for me and they exhibit no turn-on delay whatsoever (unlike many of the Philips bulbs). They're also reasonably priced at Home Depot.

I only mention this because you might be able to put Cree LED bulbs in the opener and re-aim your new lights and get even more light while still being ahead on power consumption versus a pair of 75W incandescents and not have radio reception issues. I'm using the 5000K in the garage, 2700K in the house. Could always repurpose them if they don't work for you in the garage.
 

roscoe2000

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Sep 22, 2009
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Seat Pleasant Md
Ignorance is bliss as I have been using LED bulbs in my openers for a few years now with no issues. Granted I opener's lights are used more for convenience when parking.
 

cdestuck

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Nov 13, 2013
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Altoona, Pa
Did about the same but just screwed one of those screw in plug receptacles into the sockets of the opener and wired male plugs onto the lights. Then simply plug the lights into the opener. Too simple
 

gatchel

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Dec 12, 2009
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West of King of Prussia, PA
Sort of on topic...

I tried 2 of the Philips LED (Yellow Phosphor) bulbs in the remote LM3800 Light. It turned on and never turned off. One LED and 1 incandescent, works like a charm. So I'll save only half.

I only put it in because I had it from another fixture.


OP,
Do you use the lights for normal day to day lighting or just when the door opens?
In other words, if the garage door lights are only usually on for a few minutes, will the cost of the LED bulbs ever be recovered in electrical savings? They should last for ever, however.
 
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