Garage door opener - multiple issues

[ey3ball]

Hey Guys,

I bought a new build a year and a half ago. Garage door opener came with the house, no idea who installed it, but they seem to have done a poor job. Since I have no info on who installed it, I wanted to reach out to you guys to see if there is anything I can do, before paying someone who is going to charge me a ton, if I don't need too.

Door is 15' x 8' (I think its lightly insulated). Not sure on my door make/model (will look into that later once I get home).

Opener is a Genie ReliaG 650 (aka model 1028) - chain version.

Door is well balanced and well lubed.

The issues, in no particular order, are as follows.

1. The opener is very loud and the carriage/trolley shakes a bit part way through opening/closing - See video

2. When the garage door closes the stop is extremely hard and actually moves the opener motor/head back and forth - See video

video1:

3. When the opener closes (once the door is about to be completely closed) the rail noticeably pushes up/physically moves where the carriage and j-arm are located. - See video

video2:

4. The C-Channel Rail has a decent amount of flex to it - I can push it up/down and side to side.

5. Per the installation poster (which I was able to get from Genie - since this is a dealer only product it isn't readily available online) the opener is supposed to be installed directly on the centerline of the door. Mine is not. It is off center by approximately 12.5". I know that some brands can be installed off center (like chamberlain/liftmaster) but those state that in the manual that it is allowed.

6. My header bracket for the rail is installed into a stud through drywall. The manual says that it needs to be installed directly into the framing structure or a 2 x 6 that is secured into studs. This part confuses me, does it meant that mine is incorrect since its into a stud through drywall - or is this just meaning it obviously cant just be installed into drywall, but a stud through drywall is fine? I ask becuase Ive been looking at other peoples openers since I have all these issues, and on my father in laws that he just had some pros install last year, they cut out the drywall and attached the header bracket directly to the header of the frame.

7. I would like to move my opener to the door centerline but I'm not sure how I would go about doing that becuase the centerstiles of door are not centered, and this is what the j-arm bracket is attached to. So if i move the rail over to be centered on the door, how would I attach the j-arm to the door? can i move the centerstile, im guessing not?

From the left of the door to the centerstile is 102.5". From the right side of the door to the centerstile is 77.5" - See Pic sorry the picture uploaded upside down not sure why it did that

8. The left torsion spring has weird bump/kink in it, is this normal/okay? - See Pic[/B]

sorry for so many issues and questions. And for such a long post - I tried to provide all the info i could/to answer alot of the question other people were asked.

If i had to pick my top questions are 5-8 as I feel like some of these might be causing the other issues.

Thanks so much in advance for any help you can provide. It is greatly appreciated.
-Ey3ball

 

[matt_i]

That's a weird setup. I would get a piece of box tube (steel) and span across all 3 vertical straps, screwing it into each one. Then I would mount the opener on the centerline. Note this might involve welding some flat mounting plates to the tube, I would have to see what's going on and I'm not sure you have that capability. If you could find a piece of say 1" x 3" x .120" to .187 wall that would definitely be a step in the right direction over a square cross-section.

The roller-shafts don't always like to slip sideways into the bore of the bracket they ride in. Lubricating can help but its better to reduce the amount of translation that has to happen.

 

[gnpenning]

1. From the video it's not abnormally noisy for the type of opener it is.

2-3. Adjust your down travel up a small amount. You have just a little to much down travel. You do want some pressure on the top panel to keep the panel tight to the weather seal.

4. What do you expect? Look at the quality of material.

5. With a 15' wide door your center style will NOT lay out in the center of the door. When a door is ordered depending on the manufacture you can prep for opener and they would add a center style. They didn't do that with yours. Another reason not to buy from a box store. Not a big deal. Where your opener is mounted will be fine. When opening a door by hand do you always lift in the center?? All an opener does is removes your hand from opening and closing the door. If you do try to move it to the center how do you plan on supporting the panel where the opener pushes and pulls???

6. I can't tell from the picture. But the opener needs to be lagged in to solid wood not drywall or anything that likes to move. If it's in solid wood leave it alone.

7. See 5.

8. Some sag in a spring is okay. When I do install's I like to put a small stretch in the spring. Just enough to allow some spacing between the coils. Not so much that it looks like a slinky. Just a small air gap. Too much will cause bind. The stretching of the spring reduces the rub on the coils and makes the door quieter . You shouldn't hear popping of the springs as the door goes up and down. That is the sound of the springs binding and popping loose I feel that by reducing the rubbing and binding you help prolong the life of the spring.

The only things I think you need to do is reduce the down travel and use a good Garage door lube on the rollers, hinges and opener. Depending on use do this as a regular P/M.

Welcome and enjoy your place.

 

[ey3ball]

@matt_i, thanks for your thoughts

@gnpenning,

1. Agreed, I am more concerned about the shaking/movement of the carriage.

2-3. I previously moved them down all the way to the lowest setting and it didn't seem to change anything. They started at 5 (out of 10) I moved them all the way down to 1 and they were the same, so I settled on 3 - thats what this video was taken at.

5. Fair enough, and I'm not sure how to support it thats why I'm coming here for help/ideas.

6. To clarify it is in both solid wood and drywall. The first 1/3 of the lag is in drywall, the rest is in a stud, is this okay or is this bad?

8. I know is hard to see in the picture what im talking about is not sag its almost like it is over tightened. I am attaching a close up with highlights now and will take a better picture tonight.

Everything is lubed (except for the chain - I have not lubed that).

This is our main entry/exit of our house. It is opened/closed a minimum of 4 times a day.

 

[gnpenning]

2/3. It sounds like you adjusted the down force not the down travel limits. When you raise the down LIMITS the door won't close as far. You can adjust it enough that the door will be partially open. Recheck what you actually adjusted.

6. That;s what I thought you were talking about. This is very common and done 1000xs a day. No big deal. When I frame one or asked for advise I do what is called goal posting. I run 2x material floor to ceiling and across the header. Also to the ceiling in the center. I would not change it.

8. Again this is what I expected. I don't recall hearing the spring pop when the door was going up and down on the video. Is it? When you wind the spring it grows. It can bind on the shaft and cause the spring to bunch or someone stretched the spring a little. As long as it's not popping I wouldn't worry about it. If you want them to both look the same you will need winding bars or pay someone to do it for you.

 

[RobSmith]

I had a mate with the same problem... limits might be your problem . My mates door destroyed the gearbox because the limit switches let the torque settings stop the motor. There are torque settings on the motor. you might have to play with them...get onto the manufacturer site and download a manual.

 

[Trey T]

To isolate the potential problems, either the opener or the door: first, check to see if the garage door is balanced ... google/youtube it.

 

[ey3ball]

Hey gnpenning,

2/3 Sorry I misspoke. I did change the travel limits as well as the up/down force limits.

6. thanks for the confirmation.

8.No it is not. Thanks for the advice, I don't care about look as long as its safe/functioning properly - which i believe it is. just wanted to confirm with someone who knows more then me.

@RobSmith thanks for the thoughts, i have already adjusted the up/down force limits as well as the up/down travel limits.

@Trey T, the door is balanced, that is not in question.

 

[DCarr2]

I feel i should put out a word of caution.

Diir springs are typically heavily wound up. And are wound and unwound using steel bars. 2 of them. This is EXTREMELY dangerous as if u lose your grip the bar in the socket can kill you or gi yhruogh your door/ceiling (i forget which way they wind).

Idealy a 2 person job but someone with brass balls can do it them selves. Just make sure the set screw is TIGHT

To make life easier draw a line on the spring with a craton before doing anything

 

[ey3ball]

DCarr2,

Thanks for the word of caution. Im not sure where you got the impression that I was going to do anything to the springs, but to put you at ease I'm not doing anything to the springs.

If i thought the springs needed work I would call a professional as I understand the dangers involved. but again thanks for the word of caution.

 

[upndown]

First off you don't need to move anything on that door, that's the way it's designed!
One thing I would definitely do is lower the front end and motor end of that motor.
Quick tip for motor end when lowering, lay a 2x4 on end, set operator rail on 2x4 refasten everything, pull out 2x top section will pop back where it belongs.

The operator front should mount approx 2 1/2" above spring bearing plate. You can use 1/2" plywood as a filler if you have a solid header, if not cut out the Sheetrock, nail in a 2x6, done deal.

Readjust limits as needed.

 

[ey3ball]

Hey updown, thanks for the confirmation.

I've been planning on moving the motor and front end down this weekend, I was just waiting on answer about if I should be centering it as well.

I have two questions for you:

1. I'm pretty sure I have header behind the sheetrock from what I can tell from my stud finder, but what is the purpose of putting the plywood over the sheet rock?

2. In case I don't have header there, what is the purpose of removing the sheetrock to nail in the 2x6, instead of just using lag screws to secure the 2x6 to the studs over the sheet rock?

Sorry if these are dumb questions, I'm still pretty new to home improvement work.

Thanks,

 

[BrianJ]

Contact your builder and ask who installed your opener.

 

[ey3ball]

BrianJ, the builder is non responsive. Plus even if they did respond the people that installed this did a poor job and I wouldn't want those same people looking at it.

 

[RobSmith]

Big credit to your replies....You are doing well. I hope all these suggestions help you.
It's nice to see someone that replies to all posts.

 

[ey3ball]

Thanks Rob.

I appreciate everyone's help.

 

[ey3ball]

So here is an update from the weekend.

Updates:
1. I greased the chain, which helped a little with the noise.

2. I move the motor end down 2 inches, which is in total 4 inches lower then when I first started messing with the opener (prior to starting this thread).

3. I changed the up/down limits and the up/down force settings. The up force setting is now at its lowest setting 1 out of 10 and it still looks just like my original video where the motor shakes back and forth when the door is stopping from being open.

Questions:
4. I went to move the other end of the rail lower but it turns out there is not header behind it, thats why its mounted as high as it is currently. So I will need to run a 2 x 6 before I can lower it. Which leads me back to upndown's statement

if you have a solid header, if not cut out the Sheetrock, nail in a 2x6, done deal.

What is the purpose of removing the sheetrock to nail in the 2x6, instead of just using lag screws to secure the 2x6 to the studs over the sheet rock?

5. My joists run parallel to the garage door - see picture with white indicating where my joists are. So my opener is currently only in 1 joist, and while I know this is pretty normal, the manual clearly says joists (meaning more then one).

I have an idea for helping to brace the motor so it doesn't shake so violently when the opener is stoping. See picture/mock up with gray indicating possible bracing by angle iron.

But I want to know if there is any reason that this would be a bad idea.

My thoughts on why it might be bad is that right now all the force of the door opening is being stopped and absorbed by something (maybe the joist?) as the motor moves back and forth.

If I was to brace the motor to prevent it from moving back and forth would all that energy now be being absorbed by the motor since its stationary? and would that be bad for it?

Is it better for it to be free to move back and forth/is that normal for a cheap crappy opener to shake like that when stopping the door. Or is this violent shaking back and forth bad for it/not normal?

Thanks again for your helpful advice. It is much appreciated.

 

[ey3ball]

Anyone have thoughts on my last post? I would love some thoughts and opinions from you guys. Thanks!
-ey3ball

 

[Trey T]

The door shaking back and forth when open is normal. It appears that your opener does not have soft close feature which slow down the door when open and close to prevent the door shaking back and forth.

Overall, your setup looks fine.

 

[kbs2244]

The door end of the track takes all the strain.
It has to be solidly fastened to a solid frame.

 

[ey3ball]

Trey T, thanks.

kbs2244, the door end of the track is mounted to solid header through drywall.

 

[moneypit_k5]

Just a thought, Are your motor/rail assembly installed exactly perpendicular to the door?

Is the spring tensioned correctly? how does the door feel when you raise it manually? easy, or is there binding?

I have to add. When we rebuilt our garage, we replaced the chain drive openers with worm drive openers. Specifically these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BS28SP8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I think amazon has a two pack for around $500.

It is singly the best thing I did for that garage. Ultra quiet, attractive, far more overhead clearance since there is no motor/chain assembly on the ceiling.
I would never go back to the other style in a million years.

And you could likely sell off your current ones and recoup a fair amount of your money.

Edit: I see we are nearly neighbors! Welcome to stop in and see my openers in action!

 

[ey3ball]

Hey moneypit k5!

The motor end is slightly lower then wall mounted end. They were originally level and it acted the same - maybe worse. Can't really remember anymore lol.

Yes spring is good. Door raises easily manually. I think all is caused because of the poor quality of the cheap opener installed by the builder.

Thanks for your recommendation and offer to check yours out in person. I might have to take you up on that once I'm ready to upgrade my opener.