My CHI garage door has it own opinions on how to work. Sometimes when I leave and push the button to lower the garage door, it goes back up about a foot from the floor. I know it is probably due to the electric eyes,,,but how can I delete these things? I know they are on there for safety reasons,,but 'ole grandads garage door didn't have them and he used his opener for years. I get this feeling my neighbors are watching my garage doors attitude,,LOL.
Garage door opener problem..
- Thread starter Alcohol
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rakesdl
Well-known member
On the railings where the doors slide, there are two switches called limit switches, one controls the amount the door opens when opened and the other controls the position the door stops when it is closed. These can be adjusted, by lossening the bolts and slidding them closer or further away from their original position. Not sure about the brand of door you mentioned, but am sure you can find info on adjustments by going on line. Be sure the electric eyes are working before adjusting the limit switches!
Schtauffer
Well-known member
Ok, so your door is a CHI; what brand is the operator?
sammerdog
Banned
Sounds like the sun is shining directly on your electric eyes, causing them to mis-read the signals. Before you disconnect the things and risk lopping off some neighborhood kid's noggin, try this -
A poster by the name of Identaltech came up with a good solution for this problem a few weeks back. He took a short length of 6" pvc pipe and made a "shade" for each electric eye. It shields the eye from direct sunlight and allows your sensors to work safely and correctly.
A poster by the name of Identaltech came up with a good solution for this problem a few weeks back. He took a short length of 6" pvc pipe and made a "shade" for each electric eye. It shields the eye from direct sunlight and allows your sensors to work safely and correctly.
Slammer has a good idea.
I have also just swapped sides.
The one is a bulb and the other is a receiver.
If you swap them the receiver will be in the shade.
But mine are in the opposite ends of a toilet paper tube and live in the rafters above the opener.
I have also just swapped sides.
The one is a bulb and the other is a receiver.
If you swap them the receiver will be in the shade.
But mine are in the opposite ends of a toilet paper tube and live in the rafters above the opener.
logical
Well-known member
I don't think it has anything to do with your sensors. The sun doesn't just shine when the door is almost closed.
Most door openers are designed to reverse if they hit an obstruction when closing. You either have a rough spot in the track or your door springs are out of adjustment causing a jerky close. The opener thinks it is hitting something or someone. There is often an adjustment for how sensitive the reversing trigger is. This has nothing to do with the up or down limits.
Disconnect the opener from the door and raise it up and down to see if you find the issue. It could also be the electronics in the opener...hopefullt not. Please reconsider the idea that the solution is to disconnect a safety feature.
Most door openers are designed to reverse if they hit an obstruction when closing. You either have a rough spot in the track or your door springs are out of adjustment causing a jerky close. The opener thinks it is hitting something or someone. There is often an adjustment for how sensitive the reversing trigger is. This has nothing to do with the up or down limits.
Disconnect the opener from the door and raise it up and down to see if you find the issue. It could also be the electronics in the opener...hopefullt not. Please reconsider the idea that the solution is to disconnect a safety feature.
I've fixed both my openers before by simply cleaning the contact surfaces of the limit switches.
My openers are Chamberlain type (Craftsman branded), and the limit switches are simply two pieces of metal coming into contact with each other. Some fine sandpaper on both pieces where they contact did the trick and they've been working for years (10+ for the one) now.
But only going back up a foot or so isn't how my "obstruction" safety works.. My doors go all the way back up.
My openers are Chamberlain type (Craftsman branded), and the limit switches are simply two pieces of metal coming into contact with each other. Some fine sandpaper on both pieces where they contact did the trick and they've been working for years (10+ for the one) now.
But only going back up a foot or so isn't how my "obstruction" safety works.. My doors go all the way back up.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Make sure there aren't any sticks, leaves, cobwebs, etc. hanging on the bottom of the door that can dangle in front of the eyes. However, as mentioned if the eyes 'see' something in the way the door should go all the way up. Another possibility is you need to adjust the torque and end of travel knobs on the drivehead; if you don't have the owner's manual to explain which knob does what you can probably find it on the manufacturer's website.
As suggested already:
1. clean eye of sensors
2. make sure they are aligned properly
3. increase DOWN force slightly
If those items fail...do the unthinkable...tape the photoeyes together (facing each other) and mount them on top of the opener with short wires to the opener. Of course, you now don't have them as a safety device which is very dangerous. But it'll work like grandpa's opener did.
1. clean eye of sensors
2. make sure they are aligned properly
3. increase DOWN force slightly
If those items fail...do the unthinkable...tape the photoeyes together (facing each other) and mount them on top of the opener with short wires to the opener. Of course, you now don't have them as a safety device which is very dangerous. But it'll work like grandpa's opener did.