Garage door opener trouble

[jbridges2585]

Hi everyone, I've got a problematic door opener and I'm hoping some genius (or at least someone smarter than I, which is probably everyone here) can lend some help. I have a single garage door with a Sears/Craftsman 1/2 hp chain opener. I do not know the age of the opener but I'm guessing it is about 30 years old. There is no model name on the case other than the brand, but the model number is 139.53413, 120v 6.0 amp. The problem is that the door only works intermittently, that is, when I press the wired opener button it will only occasionally respond. It might work for a handful of times, and then a few hours later I'll try again and it won't respond. I have taken apart the wired button and cleaned the terminals, didn't help. The remote control produces the same problems - it only responds sometimes. This has been going on for maybe a year, and if I unplug and replug the power, it will temporarily work. Another thing I've noticed is that the opener produces a clicking sound on its own. Meaning when I am not trying to open the door, I will hear the opener body clicking almost like its turning on and off or resetting somehow. It sounds more electrical than mechanical, like maybe the power board is engaging and disengaging.

After doing some troubleshooting research I recently removed and replaced the capacitor with a new one, and the old capacitor has a date on it of "April 1988"... pretty old (it's an old house and I've only lived here for 2 years). The P/N number on the capacitor is 30B0363, 220vac, 53-64 mfd. (I don't know what those numbers mean but I figure the more info the better.) So after I installed the new capacitor, the opener worked perfectly for about an hour - button worked, remote worked, car remotes worked, etc. Then a little while later it wouldn't respond again! So, naturally, I did what any sane person would do: in frustration I smacked the motor body of the opener and then it started working... it would open when I pressed the button. That was last week, and now everytime I try to open the garage door, it won't respond unless I give the opener body a light tap with my hand Very confusing, but interesting that it responds immediately with a light tap!!

So I have no idea. My thought would be a loose connection somewhere? I didn't look too closely at the circuit board, but at a glance it didn't appear to have any glaring problems. The weird thing is the opener will respond the same whether I press the wired button or the remote control - if I tap the body of the opener, the garage door will respond to both the button and the remote. Then after a while it won't respond (unless I tap it again).

Any thoughts?? I tried to give as much info as possible (and sorry for the long post) and thanks in advance for any ideas you might have.

James

 

[gnpenning]

As you mentioned you could be having a connection issues. Either in the circuit board or related wiring. You are probably hearing a relay.clicking. you can always pull it down and get it on a bench and start testing circuits. While it is apart I would check the drive gears for wear.

That vintage shouldn't have any safety of eyes.

Not sure how much money or time you want to put into a 30 year old unit??

 

[jbridges2585]

Thanks, gn. I think you're right - a "relay clicking" sounds like the correct description of the sound! I've already got $20 sunk in a new capacitor, and that is approaching the upper limit of the money I want to invest in it. But I figured if I can get it working again with an easy fix, no sense in trashing it and buying a new one for $150.

I'm certainly not an electrical engineer, but I have a multimeter and have the dangerous ability to search YouTube for "how to test circuits". But any pointers? I'm guessing it involves testing for resistivity across certain key parts...

I did look at the gears and they appear to be in good working order: no apparent wear or grinding of material. And when the door works, it does open smoothly with no straining or troubling sounds. So I'm thinking it is just an electrical issue - some worn out circuit perhaps. 30 years of Texas heat in a garage isn't great for electrics I wouldn't imagine!

 

[doublearon98]

First I would check your easy connections. This includes lightly tugging on wires inside and see if any are loose. Start there and report back

Also a picture of the insides would be helpful

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[gnpenning]

As mentioned do a wiggle test on all wires on both ends. The wall button is just a door bell button, check contacts on the button. Check battery voltage in remote and contacts. I know you said it's the same with both and hitting the opener doesn't affect either one, but they are free and easy checks and you want to be sure they are good if you get it working.

I would lower the door and pull the opener down putting the head on a bench and the rail end on a saw horse. Remember it's supported basically this way in the air.

PLEASE DON'T HAVE ANYTHING YOU WANT TO J
KEEP AROUND MOVING PARTS WHEN TESTING. Use the pecker method.

Remove the cover and carefully check all connections. For me I would use a light and magnification on the circuit board. If nothing is found try to operate the opener(pecker rule). Use your remote of have a short piece of wire on 1 wall button terminal and tap the other one with the other end. Remember when you use the wall button you press and release. Same here. If it's not working tap the side and Watch for anything moving. If it's a visual problem you may see it. To go any further you may just be wasting your time. Again 30 years.

If you have the knowledge and what each item is and how to test the components I think you would have already done it.

Keep in mind to replace your have to remove it anyway so no real time lost.

Happy checking

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

The circuit board itself may have a crack in one of the circuits, that would be difficult to see. Often those are temperature sensitive. As it gets colder it stops working. A light smack jarrs it just enough to make a contact. But it is old enough to warrant replacing. Intermittent issues are often the most difficult to solve. Good luck.

 

[bubinga]

The circuit board itself may have a crack in one of the circuits, that would be difficult to see. Often those are temperature sensitive. As it gets colder it stops working. A light smack jarrs it just enough to make a contact. But it is old enough to warrant replacing. Intermittent issues are often the most difficult to solve. Good luck.

what I am leaning toward.

 

[jbridges2585]

Thanks everybody for your ideas and for taking the time to help. I'll give these suggestions a try and will report back. Alternatively I may just bust out the credit card and buy a new opener!

 

[kbs2244]

There is a whole underground industry out there for repairing G O boards.
Most often it is a swap out purchase.
Do a search.

 

[bubinga]

There is a whole underground industry out there for repairing G O boards.
Most often it is a swap out purchase.
Do a search.

You Mean Guys rebuild them On the Back market So to speak, and sell them?
I am guessing not Cheap.
OP if you're good @ soldering, Take the board out, and carefully look @ all solder joints. Maybe you can find a bad solder point

 

[jbridges2585]

I wonder if anyone would rebuild a logic board for a 30 year old model! Anyway I pulled out the board and looked at it closely. There was evidence of some kind of blowout. Some light charring on the white plastic base of pins that connect to the wire harness. Looks like the source was from a nearby resistor. Some of the copper connections within the board looked like they were fried too. So I'll just live with it for now until I get around to buying a new one. It really is strange, almost comical: all I have to do to get it to work is just barely tap the body, and then I hit the button and it works

Thanks again, everyone, for all of your help and suggestions.

 

[kbs2244]

You sound like you know something about electronics.
If so, you know these boards are pretty basic.

And 30 years is not too old for the re-build underground.
The OEM went decades without changes

The boards are color coded by the color of the "learn" button.
Do a search on your color and take your pick of what is offered.

Or you can upgrade.
The different board generations have identical outputs to the motor control.

I am running daily on an opener with the "wrong" color board.
All I had to do to "upgrade" was get new remotes.

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

While that is possible, if you get too new you may have to add safety beams, as the newer ones will not operate without the correct input. At some point, it becomes silly to invest more money in an old opener than a new one will cost, never mind your time.

 

[doublearon98]

I wonder if anyone would rebuild a logic board for a 30 year old model! Anyway I pulled out the board and looked at it closely. There was evidence of some kind of blowout. Some light charring on the white plastic base of pins that connect to the wire harness. Looks like the source was from a nearby resistor. Some of the copper connections within the board looked like they were fried too. So I'll just live with it for now until I get around to buying a new one. It really is strange, almost comical: all I have to do to get it to work is just barely tap the body, and then I hit the button and it works

Thanks again, everyone, for all of your help and suggestions.

Seeing as you can lightly tap it and it works , it sounds like you may have a component with cracked solder. Tap a needle or a small pick (etc) and just push lightly on each component and I bet you will find the cracked spot. A pin soldering iron and your good to go

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[bubinga]

Seeing as you can lightly tap it and it works , it sounds like you may have a component with cracked solder. Tap a needle or a small pick (etc) and just push lightly on each component and I bet you will find the cracked spot. A pin soldering iron and your good to go

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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