Garage Door Opening Framing

[Smitty75]

Hello all. I’m about to finish framing in my garage doors and not sure what to do with the last jack stud that will make up the final garage door width. The walls are on a 14” tall block stem wall, and so far I have all the required jack studs per code for the openings which sit on the wall plate. But now I need to run a final 2x6 on both sides of the opening from the header to the floor for door hardware and such. I was just going to use PT 2x6’s, but not sure how to fasten the bottom 14” that runs down the block vs wood framing. Saw some posts on predrilling and using masonry screws but read they can crack the block. Any thoughts? And is there a pattern or min number of fasteners needed for the bottom 14”? Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Kevin54]

Use Tapcon screws that are long enough. They will screw into the concrete. I'd also add a little construction adhesive behind the 2x. If you have a block wall, they will drill in. Solid wall...you'll have to predrill.

 

[Smitty75]

Use Tapcon screws that are long enough. They will screw into the concrete. I'd also add a little construction adhesive behind the 2x. If you have a block wall, they will drill in. Solid wall...you'll have to predrill.

Thanks Kevin


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[KANSASBOY]

We use sleeve anchors

 

[Smitty75]

And do you guys think that needs to be Pressure treated since it will be in contact with the block? I can always slide a piece of roof felt behind it and keep it off the slap 1/2”. but then can’t used adhesive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[The Cobbler]

if you're capping with aluminum, the PT can affect the aluminum as it can be very corrosive.
I would use spf lumber & put felt behind it, leave it off the ground 1/2"
2 tapcons per board would be sufficient, it is just trim, not structural

 

[matt_i]

I'm not sure if they have this size, it could be built-up, but I used Azek (solid PVC = no rot) for the bottom 24" of the trim piece, in my case it was a 1x4 but faced the same issues.

I agree with The Cobbler's recommendation Not to use treated if its going to be wrapped in trim coil. If its too late you can wrap it with peel + stick (basically ice+water shield in a width to flash windows and dooors) but that's a lot more expense.

 

[Bodycount_NJ]

Thanks Kevin


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do not over tighten the tapcon screws. The heads can snap off.

 

[Bigblockyeti]

I would avoid ACQ or CCA lumber and stick with SPF using a thick (30# or greater) felt paper with the bottom slathered with silicone caulk and left 1/2" high. For retention, use the small Phillips head Tapcons with the 3/16" bit, pre-drill and use four of them on each side. Phillips will sit flush without having to counterbore and breakage is far reduced using Phillips vs. hex cap.

 

[Kevin54]

If you want to use treated lumber, you need to isolate it from the aluminum. You can use felt paper, house wrap, or house tape.

 

[Smitty75]

I would avoid ACQ or CCA lumber and stick with SPF using a thick (30# or greater) felt paper with the bottom slathered with silicone caulk and left 1/2" high. For retention, use the small Phillips head Tapcons with the 3/16" bit, pre-drill and use four of them on each side. Phillips will sit flush without having to counterbore and breakage is far reduced using Phillips vs. hex cap.

Thanks for the advice, this is the direction I will head. No aluminum, will be fiber cement trim and siding, including doorways.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk