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Garage Door Question

Bojacked

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Leelanau Co.
Hello folks, I have a Overhead garage door opener. When the garage door is closed I can open it by getting my hand underneath the door and pulling the garage door up from the outside! Is this normal? If not, how can I adjust the door so it's not so easy to open by the use of force?

Thank you
 
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SGKent

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chain drive? Screw drive? How old is it and what model?

No it should not be normal. You should have a manual release that has to be pulled although some people wire them locked so that a thief cannot use a coat hanger to get into the garage.
 

CJ7VFR

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You should not be able to open the garage door with your hands when it is closed by the garage door opener. Something is not right, obviously.

When the door is closed via the door opener the only way to get it to open up manually (by using your hands) is if you disengage the door from the door opener. This is usually done by pulling a cord that is attached to the door opener slider that is normally attached to either the chain (on a chain driven opener), the belt (on a belt driven opener) or some other type of direct drive opening system.

It sounds like something is not right inside the actual drive housing of the garage door opener.

Try this experiment. Stand outside the garage and close the garage door via the remote. Let the door close all the way.

Then, hit the remote and let the door go about half way up, and then hit the remote again to make the door stop. It should remain in place where ever you stopped it.

Once the door is stopped see if you can push the door open the rest of the way using your hands. If not, and the door won't move, see if you can pull the door closed with your hands.

This will let you know in which direction the opener is having the problem, and from there you can diagnose it more.

My opener has adjustments for how much force is applied opening/closing....

This is also something to look at. If the downforce adjustment is set very low, it may be possible on some garage door openers to be able to push the door open with your hands. You should check that setting as well.

Jim
 
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Bojacked

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Thanks for the replies everyone! Sorry, I should have provided more details. "Overhead door" is a garage door/garage opener manufacturer. It is a chain drive system.
I will attempt the suggestions tomorrow and report back.

Thanks again.
 

logical

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I have no idea what a "Overhead garage door opener" is.
Overhead Door is a brand so that may be where he's going. My openers are "Overhead Door" screw drive. If you had grown up around barns with big horizontal sliding "barn doors", the term overhead door was the typical way you'd describe a sectional tracked ( or even single section) garage door

Sent from my garage.
 

matt_i

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If you have a Chamberlain (or I think Sears Craftsman) model it potentially has a sacrificial plastic worm gear in it. That can get worn so thin it barely drives the door. In my case the door stopped opening at certain points as the teeth simply folded over instead of transmit the torque.

If you were close to that state of wear it might be what is actually happening is that the worm gearset is failing to "lock" and instead the door is "overdriving" the weak teeth.

Along the same lines its possible something is slipping in the drivetrain between the chain-driven carriage and the electric motor.

The good news is if you had that fail mode, parts are available all over, Amazon, etc, and around $25.
 
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andyvh1959

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Real simple. With the door down and closed if you push at the top of the top in the center it should move in no more than a 1/2". Closed at rest the top center of the door should contact the door stop/seal. This is an easy adjustment of the door lift arm where it attaches to the track/chain/screw device that lifts the door.

On the Genie screw drive on my garage door I simply adjust the down stop switch so the arm travelled a bit further until the lift arm pushed a bit more out onto the door. If it travels a bit more to apply a push force on the inside of the door you won't be able to lift the door at all when closed.
 

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Leaflessshadetree

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Check that the arm from the top of the door is properly latched into the part that is connected to the chain (or drive). The latch normally has a rope attached to allow you to manually raise the door in an emergency (power failure). It's shown as a red handle in the picture in the previous post)
If it "latched" behind the other part it may operate almost normal but won't actually be locked.
 

Hot Rod Grampa

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It sounds like your opener is a bit aged. Early ribbon brand openers did not have the same type of worm gear drives that stop the action you are describing. Check the position of your J bar. The bar between he opener rail and the door. When the door is closed, that bar must be dead nuts vertical or a whisker past center. Adjust the bar to the door then adjust your travel limit switches to get your settings correct. Then check to see if that opener has a manual clutch on the chain drive. Usually you would see it next to the large belt pulley, the shaft will have a castle nut, cotter key and some metal and possibly fiber washers. Early models used mechanical clutches, new openers use amp sensors to detect obstructions. Let us know how you make out.
 

CJ7VFR

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If you have a Chamberlain (or I think Sears Craftsman) model it potentially has a sacrificial plastic worm gear in it. That can get worn so thin it barely drives the door. In my case the door stopped opening at certain points as the teeth simply folded over instead of transmit the torque.

If you were close to that state of wear it might be what is actually happening is that the worm gearset is failing to "lock" and instead the door is "overdriving" the weak teeth.

Along the same lines its possible something is slipping in the drivetrain between the chain-driven carriage and the electric motor.

The good news is if you had that fail mode, parts are available all over, Amazon, etc, and around $25.

This is exactly what happened to one of the Sears chain drive garage door openers at my dads house, and reason I suggested the process to the OP to see what was going on with his door opener.

My dad purchased two Sears Chain drive 1/2HP garage door openers back in 1988 for his two car garage. He used one door much more often than the other door, and as a result, the most often used door ended up having issues after about 15 years, similar to what the OP describes.

It ended up being the white plastic worm gear inside the motor drive housing. My dad wrote to Sears about it, and believe it or not, they sent him a brand new worm gear for free, even after all that time had gone by. I was amazed.

The original worm gear was worn in such a way that would let is still work, but barely, and make a lot of noise and a "jumping" motion as the door would go up and down. It was also fairly easy to push the door open after it went down. It was these reasons that my dad took the door opener down and check to see if he could figure out what the issue was, which he did.

We took the motor drive assembly apart, replaced the worm gear, and the door opener worked great again. As a matter of fact, we sold my dads house in 2018, and both of those original door openers were still in the garage and still working.

Jim
 
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GreyOwl

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Can you post a pic of the J-link bar that connects the opener to the door? If it is mounted too horizontal, any upward force on the door will move it. Mine is almost vertical when the door is closed.
 
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Bojacked

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GreyOwl and HRG, the J bar is about 10 degrees from vertical. How can I adjust this so it is 0 degrees?

Thanks for all the replies everyone, I really appreciate the help!


Can you post a pic of the J-link bar that connects the opener to the door? If it is mounted too horizontal, any upward force on the door will move it. Mine is almost vertical when the door is closed.
 
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Bojacked

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I found the manual online for my door(Overhead 450A). According to the manual the drawbar that attaches to the yokes should not be in the vertical position.

Perhaps this era of garage door openers didn't take security into account?

Looks like I'm back to square one.
 

Hot Rod Grampa

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The manual should show you how to adjust the opener travel limits. I would start by pulling the emergency disconnect, unbolt the two halves of the J bar and slide the upper section on the opener forward until you get to the near vertical position. Bolt the J bar together, a little longer is better than a little shorter. That way when the opener closes the door it will push the door to the floor. Now adjust your opener limits until the chain clicks into the shuttle the J bar is attached to. Don't forget to adjust the opening limits as they will now be off also.
 
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