Garage Door rail Position

[8pack]

I am looking at putting OSB over my garage ceiling sheetrock. There are a ton of poorly patched holes and others that are still open.

The garage door rails/tracks are obviously attached to the ceiling as well as the door opener.

Is there any reason I can't unbolt them and put 7/16" OSB over the Sheetrock and remount them. It would lower the rail and opener by 7/16". I have studied it and it doesn't look like it would have a material impact on the operation of the door.

I have attached pics for reference. The last picture is where I am redoing the walls with OSB and painting them white. It makes a huge difference in the lighting. You can see how dark the garage is with the old Sheetrock and it is easier to just go over the top of it on the ceiling and paint the sheathing white. The walls I tore all the Sheetrock off and put in new Rock wool insulation and covered with OSB.

 

[The Cobbler]

just be mindful of the spring tension . put them back in the same place as before & you should be fine.
When I added 5/8 T&G to my ceiling I measured the distance off the walls & floor and placed them back in the same place. I may have supported them with wire or something while I was working around them, I don't remember

 

[PCustoms]

To each their own, but that ceiling doesn't look bad at all. Some tape, some compound and a few coats of white paint and it will look great

 

[BillK]

Not sure if i would want the extra weight up there either ??

 

[8pack]

Not sure if i would want the extra weight up there either ??

I didn't consider the extra weight. Each board weighs 50#. Roughly 12 boards per bay so an additional 550#/bay or 1,700# across a 3 bay garage.

Is that consequential in the scheme of things? When I am working up there with someone we are 400# in a fairly confined area not to mention the junk stored up there.

 

[8pack]

To each their own, but that ceiling doesn't look bad at all. Some tape, some compound and a few coats of white paint and it will look great

I am feeling like it is less work to just screw up some new boards and cover all the defects than doing all the patching but maybe you are right. I will noodle that one a bit adding the consideration of the potential issue related to adding weight to the structure.

The Sheet rock is all nailed up, not screwed so I also thoughr screws would offer better overall support.

 

[Torque&Recoil]

Hmm. You have extension springs. Those are pulling against the end of the rails. I don't have that style to look at right now, but isn't there a chance that if you unbolt the end of the rail, it might buckle sideways from the spring force ? Just think about this seriously before you unscrew anything when the springs are tensioned (door closed). It might be safer to do as The Cobbler suggests, and de-tension the springs before doing anything structural. Raise the door until there is no spring force, unhook the springs, then lower the door (heavy !). Otherwise, I am no fan of OSB but if that's what you want, go for it.

PS - I am glad to see that your installation has safety cables running through the center of those extension springs. Don't delete those cables. If and when a spring breaks, imagine the havoc that a wildly swinging spring could cause to your car (or your head). Not to scare you, but garage door springs are really dangerous.

 

[8pack]

Hmmm to your Hmmm...

I hadn't thought of that either. That's why posting questions and pictures here is such a good idea. Getting other's perspectives can really save you from creating issues or even a disaster.

Thanks for those thoughts. Garage door springs are terrifying. I have had one break on a previous home but it did have safety cables. Sounded like a bomb going off.

 

[racecougar]

I'd replace the springs while you're at it. The one in the first photo isn't long for this world.

Is this an attached or detached garage? What does the ceiling framing consist of?

 

[mrvm]

I'd replace the springs while you're at it. The one in the first photo isn't long for this world.

Is this an attached or detached garage? What does the ceiling framing consist of?

That spring has an unusual twist in the center. There are not always visual warning signs of failure. Springs can be scary dangerous when they break.

 

[racecougar]

That spring has an unusual twist in the center. There are not always visual warning signs of failure. Springs can be scary dangerous when they break.

Exactly. I'd replace them all.

 

[8pack]

I'd replace the springs while you're at it. The one in the first photo isn't long for this world.

Is this an attached or detached garage? What does the ceiling framing consist of?

The ceiling is 2x4 tied into 2 attic trusses. The garage is a 3 car detached garage. I actually never noticed until now that stretched/twisted spring. The doors weigh a ton. They are very hard to lift when detached from the drive. I can barely lift them alone.

I am really glad I posted this question. It has forced me to look at some things I have never considered and really should be addressing.

That spring has an unusual twist in the center. There are not always visual warning signs of failure. Springs can be scary dangerous when they break.

 

[racecougar]

The ceiling is 2x4 tied into 2 attic trusses. The garage is a 3 car detached garage. I actually never noticed until now that stretched/twisted spring. The doors weigh a ton. They are very hard to lift when detached from the drive. I can barely lift them alone.

I am really glad I posted this question. It has forced me to look at some things I have never considered and really should be addressing.

When you say that the 2x4 ceiling joists are tied into 2 attic trusses...how so? What does the roof framing consist of then? Trying to get a picture of the weight carrying capacity of your ceiling framing, hence the questions. At the moment, it's sounding alarming, so I'm hoping to get a better picture of what you have going on.

If the doors are super heavy to lift when disconnected from the operators, it sounds like they aren't properly sprung/balanced. They should not be difficult to lift by hand with the operators disconnected.

 

[hobie18]

^^^^^^^^

The sheetrock may have to be there for fire rating.

Yes, the door should be easy to move when disconnected. The springs should balance the weight. They have given up. You can try to tighten, but it would be a bad idea. New springs would be a much better idea. Moving to torsion may be safer.

Yes, we please need a picture of the framing structure. Normally garages really are built minimally (near me) but a three car may be totally different. 2 1/2 here.

 

[8pack]

Ok. Here we go with pictures! Much better than I can explain it. It is a little dark but hopefully you can tell. Garage was built in 1936.

Garage door company is coming next week to replace the springs and inspect everything else. They also said things are not right!

 

[racecougar]

From those photos, it looks like the joists are running front to back and are bisected midspan by two unique trusses (I haven't seen that before). What is the approximate span from the end walls to each truss, and what is the approximate span between the two trusses? You're certain that the joists are 2x4? It looks like they could be taller than that if the foam board in the photos is in the cavities rather than beneath the joists.

 

[8pack]

Will get updated photos and info tomorrow. Thanks for the response. Will update this post.

I HAVENT FORGOTTEN...in a mad dash to to get the walls finished and the area prepped for the new heater. I have to have it mounted by end of day tomorrow as I have to return the lift and I am going waybuntil Thursday. The attic is a bit treacherous so I just needed to focus on getting this part of the project done since. I only have the lift for the weekend.

I will try and get up there over The Weeknd before I leave and get all the information.

I really appreciate your input and advice!

 

[8pack]

I wasn't able to measure the distance to the trusses and between yet but I did verify the following:

• The garage is around 27x35
• The joists run the width of the garage
• They are True 2x6
• Front to back firring strips were put up to nail the sheet rock to it so it could be installed with the 8' lengths front to back
• The sheet rock is so old it or not capable of accepting screws. Only nails. Screws go right through unless you leave all the screws heads proud.

I patched the area above the heater and it was an absolutely miserable job. Working upside down to tape the joints and apply the joint compound multiple coats and then sanding it between each coat was just incredibly unpleasant and way too much work. If the roof can handle it I am definitely going to put up painted OSB, taping all the joints in all the existing Sheetrock and patching the holes isn't worth it....but not for awhile. I need to get working on finishing my truck for the summer.

I will get the rest of the measurements when I get back from my trip on Thursday.

Thanks again!

 

[hobie18]

Is sheet rock one of the safety requirements

 

[8pack]

I don't have liveable space above so technically no. But I won't take it down either way. OSB over Sheetrock is acceptable as per code as a fire barrier. I can pull the code later if anyone is curious.

 

[Wrench97]

Ever thought about using 1/4" plywood instead of osb?
The door tracks should be angled slightly up at the rear so the door holds tension on the cables at the top and starts to close smoothly if you have an opener.