Garage door rebuilding help

[BFBOB]

I'm rebuilding a wooden garage door and have a question about my Shaper. I bought it at an estate sale quite some years ago and haven't had occasion to use it until now. I bought the proper cutters to cut the profiles on the door panels, but installing them on the shaper's spindle led me to a question. There are two fairly obvious but different ways to install the stack - I could align them so the cutting edges are aligned vertically (as in the photo), or stagger them evenly at 120 degrees. I can think of pros and cons for either arrangement, but I'd rather get it right the first time. Anyone know?

Thanks!

 

[manwithtools]

Staggered, and you need a stock feeder to do this safely. Calling @jar944

 

[BFBOB]

Thanks!
Yes, I'm a big believer in safety equipment, table saw, router table, bandsaw, even the usually benign drill press.

... but it never hurts to be reminded.

 

[jar944]

Welcome to the wonderful world of shapers. They are my favorite peice of shop equipment for their versatility. I'm actually standing/working at one cutting that profile as I type this.



To your question, I would stagger them.

I would watch this video first before making any cuts.

You don't *need* a power feeder but I would strongly recommend one. At minimum you need a shaw guard setup
to keep your hands away from the skinny bits.

Also note that that profile needs dowels or loose tenons in addition to the stub tenon for thr door to actually last.

Feel free to ask any questions

 

[BFBOB]

Thanks - I staggered the cutters, and it's working smooth as silk. I think it's actually smoother than my router table.

I'm aware of the need for dowels - big ones, 5/8". The old panel has pretty well come apart, but into large enough pieces it's easy to see how it was assembled. 5/8 dowels top and bottom for each of the verticals, and after the trial fitting, be sure to remember to put the center panels in before glueing up all the frame members around them!! I'm a big fan of Titebond - the waterproof variety on this, of course.

I originally planned to make the frame out of pressure treated 2x4's, but that was a no-go because they twisted and warped so badly upon drying. At least HD took 'em back. I was able to get the 5 short verticals out of one of the not-so-bad PT lumber, but the long top and bottom pieces had to be regular 2x4's. I'll paint the heck out of them and hope for the best.

 

[jar944]

Thanks - I staggered the cutters, and it's working smooth as silk. I think it's actually smoother than my router table.

I'm aware of the need for dowels - big ones, 5/8". The old panel has pretty well come apart, but into large enough pieces it's easy to see how it was assembled. 5/8 dowels top and bottom for each of the verticals, and after the trial fitting, be sure to remember to put the center panels in before glueing up all the frame members around them!! I'm a big fan of Titebond - the waterproof variety on this, of course.

I originally planned to make the frame out of pressure treated 2x4's, but that was a no-go because they twisted and warped so badly upon drying. At least HD took 'em back. I was able to get the 5 short verticals out of one of the not-so-bad PT lumber, but the long top and bottom pieces had to be regular 2x4's. I'll paint the heck out of them and hope for the best.

Is this a overhead garage door or a man door for a garage?

I'm afraid construction lumber is going to do horrible things as it drys. Generally the door will warp as the stiles dry out.

These are both construction lumber "doors" neither is close to flat enough after drying out to function as a door. Both were dead flat when built.

 

[BFBOB]

Is this a overhead garage door or a man door for a garage?

I'm afraid construction lumber is going to do horrible things as it drys. Generally the door will warp as the stiles dry out.

These are both construction lumber "doors" neither is close to flat enough after drying out to function as a door. Both were dead flat when built.

This is an overhead door, 4 panels, 8' wide, 8' high. I'm aware of the un-flat problems. This will be close enough - I couldn't use pressure treated because it's so wavy. Looked usable when it was still wet ... on drying, no dice. Fortunately Home Depot took them back, and I substituted very nice high grade 2x4x8 studs.
. The less wavy of the pressure treated was good enough I cut around the worst parts and got 4 of the uprights out of it. It will be painted with outdoor rated paint, so with a little luck it will last as long as me.

I've built doors similar to the pair you show above. Yours sure look flat... but pretty is as pretty does. Mine are flat enough to function, but it wasn't easy getting them that way. It's an art- one I haven't mastered yet. There is an original single man door. It makes yours look like they belong in the Sistine Chappel!

 

[jar944]

I've built doors similar to the pair you show above. Yours sure look flat... but pretty is as pretty does. Mine are flat enough to function, but it wasn't easy getting them that way. It's an art- one I haven't mastered yet. There is an original single man door. It makes yours look like they belong in the Sistine Chappel!

The two in the picture were built flat, after a few weeks they warped (not unexpected). They aren't actually doors so it didn't matter. Overall construction lumber is a bad choice for door parts for 3 reasons:
1. It's usually full of defects
2. it's usually case hardened from the kiln drying process and full of internal stress because of that. Construction lumber is dried faster than non Construction lumber because it doesn't matter to a wall.
3. It's always way to wet to build things with (typically 20% mc)

Building a flat door isn't that hard, keeping it flat is a bit of luck and lot of choices. If you start with good stile material (flat, quarter sawn or clear vertical grain and perfectly defect free you stand a good chance. If it warps while milling its not suitable, so it can be reused as rails.

The alternative is stave core construction, you can use junk in the cores as is common on 99% of commercially produced "solid wood" doors. More labor, but there is a high chance the stay flat.

 

[cos]

Hello I have rebuild a wooden garage door as bottom rail went to pot. Could not find a profile cutter to match original pattern, had to grind a blank knife to match cope, stiles were good saved grinding stick knife,. This door frame was 1 3/4" and 1/4 inch panels. If you are new to shaper you should make a heavy one piece base with chip slot. Make one with 4-5 inch high vertical fence ( 2 pieces same thickness like in pic above) and one with 1/16" offset. This allows you cutter to take 1/16 off and line up with back fence. Also cut both in and out fences with your profile of cutter you are using to make a chip break. Might be pic on some of wood working forum if my explanations not clear. All old timers made they own fences. I you can not fine materials for stiles and rails, make your own. Find some dry vertical grain DF and resaw (with TS or band saw) into 1/4 veneer and glue it to a straight lower grade piece. Will need a thickness planer to finish and resawen face.