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Garage door seal

rarebreed

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Jun 26, 2013
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Clover, SC.
So I had my high lift kit and Liftmaster 8500 installed today. There is only one issue. Since the tracks kick back away from the wall, the top panel of the door does not contact the rubber trim seal around the opening. The installer said he could adjust the door out a bit more, but the seal catches on the outer window frames of the top panel. My question is, has anyone else had thus issue and what did you for to close up the gap without affecting the door operation? I can provide pics for reference if needed.
 
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Marctrees

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I just had two sectional 10w x 8 h doors installed.

Ohead dorrs are best installed by an Ohead door contractor that supplies all P+L for the job.

That should get you experience, AND.. only ONE Guy to be responsible if problem.

If you got it from Menards, and had a Carp install it ...all bets are off.

In my case, It was clearly explained to the Door co that the building will be AC'd and I want the least air infiltration possible.

When he was finished, the side and head weatherstrip fit very very nicely against the door.

Also the bottom against slab.

Basically light tight fit everywhere , no impeding of door closing at all... Very smooth operation, very nice sealing action.

IMHO, you had an unexperienced installer... call the Company and have it corrected.

"but the seal catches on the outer window frames of the top panel."

I dunno about this part, don't understand... photo may help ... but it should be able to be remedied.

They supplied everything, didn't they?

Needs to be fixed by an experienced guy from their crew.

Marc
 
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rarebreed

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Clover, SC.
It is an 8x18 two car garage door. He's been doing this a long time. I'd have to take pics to show what I am referring to.
 

Marctrees

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So, it was ? an Ohead door company that supplied all matl and labor ?

Please do photos, very curious to see.

Sounds something not right.

Sounds like goofy designed door panels w windows that were not planned to use w standard weatherstrips?? maybe?

We'll see your photos.

Marc
 
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Hot Rod Grampa

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Near Cooperstown New York
That is going to happen with that combination. Since the door goes up, before turning, the flap will hit. Contact the door co. And ask them to install a top seal for a commercial door. It attaches to the top section of the door and should seal the gap. Are your windows in the top section? You may be able to move the section down one position, depending on the model. That should move the issue away from the seal. Good luck.
 
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rarebreed

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Hot Rod Grampa. I believe he called it a breakaway track kit. It starts to kick back right at the top of the door opening. It's only about a quarter inch or just over that but it's enough to be an issue, mostly concerned with keeping bugs out. Lots of wasps and bees here in the south. I may have him adjust it back out towards the seal and adjust the trim out if it drags too much on the window frames. I'd rather not have to move the window panel down because I'd have to do it on the detached garage door also.
 

gnpenning

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I have more questions than answers.
High lift doors start to come back into the room when the door starts up. How much can very.

A dual flap top seal used for commercial applications might be the answer.

Need to see good pictures from the sides and front.
 

cullen

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Colleyville, TX.
I had the same issue. I bought a new seal from home depot and stacked it on the old seal. That extra 1/2" drop allowed it to seal.
 
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rarebreed

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Clover, SC.
Marctrees. No photos just yet but I see now why it has to be the way it is. I opted for the most lift I could get which is 36" I adjusted the door all the way forward as it should be, not only does it drag on the seals, but it hits the ceiling beam before it can make the curve back at the top. I'm probably going to order the dual swipe seal from DDM Garage doors or try to install a regular trim seal on the inside of the header like the ones on the outside. We shall see how it goes.
 

Marctrees

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I am not intimately familiar w this lift system.. was just commenting on Ohead door installs in general.

Sounds like you may have solutions... that others can learn from that do what you have,

Marc
 
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rarebreed

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wssix99

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The roller at the top of your door isn't correct. It should be on a special bracket (different from the others on the door) that places the roller further away from the door, and keeps the door panels all on the same plane.

It's called and adjustable top bracket:

304000-TOP-BRACKET-COMMERCIAL-ADJUSTABLE__02628.1477579391.220.220.jpg


Maybe you already have these? If so, just loosen the nut and adjust the brackets until the door is in the right plane.
 

firebirdparts

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Kingsport, TN
That's exactly what's on that door already. It is visible in that picture. It is put together the "other" way but it's the correct bracket.

So you see, OP, how it works. You make it fit. The problem is when you do that correctly the window is going to hang up on the seal. Just as you said in the first post.
 

gnpenning

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I have more questions than answers.
The problem is one of your panels is the wrong size for the opening. You didn't mention the height of the door or the opening height.

For a 8' opening you should have 2/21" panels and 3/18"panels. If the opening is 7'9" you need 1/21"panels and 4/18"panels. For example.

The top panel of your door is several inches above the door opening putting the window frame right below the weatherstrip and not giving the top panel a chance to move away from the weatherstrip as the door goes up. Cheaper to replace any other panel than the top with the windows.
 

Radix2

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the thumb!, MI
The problem is one of your panels is the wrong size for the opening. You didn't mention the height of the door or the opening height.

For a 8' opening you should have 2/21" panels and 3/18"panels. If the opening is 7'9" you need 1/21"panels and 4/18"panels. For example.

The top panel of your door is several inches above the door opening putting the window frame right below the weatherstrip and not giving the top panel a chance to move away from the weatherstrip as the door goes up. Cheaper to replace any other panel than the top with the windows.


This is the answer.

Unless you can move the window down from the top with shorter panels below, there is obviously no way a normal outside trim can be used. It wil also look better with the correct reveal around the opening with a properly sized door.

I see you say lift kit installed - so the door was previously installed with a std lift track that broke hard right at the top to let it work before? Which will make it hard to get a new panel and have it match...

There are also high lift tracks that break harder at the door top to clear carriage door handles - this style might be better to allow the fast pull away you need instead of the straight style you have.
 
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rarebreed

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This is the answer.

Unless you can move the window down from the top with shorter panels below, there is obviously no way a normal outside trim can be used. It wil also look better with the correct reveal around the opening with a properly sized door.

I see you say lift kit installed - so the door was previously installed with a std lift track that broke hard right at the top to let it work before? Which will make it hard to get a new panel and have it match...

There are also high lift tracks that break harder at the door top to clear carriage door handles - this style might be better to allow the fast pull away you need instead of the straight style you have.

Radix2. I believe you are correct. If I were to put a flush mount window frame in as opposed to the raised decorative ones that are on it, I could get the door closer to the seal without it hitting. The problem with it being flush to the existing seal is it does not break away soon enough to clear the beam in the ceiling. I ordered the dual flap top seal yesterday for it. I also spoke with the installer about an idea I had. If the top roller plate had two additional holes just slightly further back, it would allow the door to push in a little closer to the opening and still clear the beam when it goes up. I'm going to drill an extra set of holes on the plate this weekend and see if it helps. He's got extra plates if the idea goes sideways and dies not work. We shall see once I make the adjustment.

I had the option to go with a 32" radius but went with the 36" to get maximum height out of the door. If I'd gone with the shorter radius, I'd lose about a foot or more of clearance. I'm sure it would have worked but I'd rather work with what I've got than try to have it changed.
 

wssix99

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I think Radix2 is suggesting a full break-away track (so the entire track is angled away from the frame). This type (instead of yours which is straight for the first part and only breaks away at the end) should move away from the seals faster and more aggressively.

TRACKSTY.gif
 
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rarebreed

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So I drilled the additional holes in the top roller plate and it closed up the gap between the seal and the door and does not hit the ceiling beam when opening. The seal does rub a little bit on the outside of the door when it opens, but not enough to cause a problem. I did install the dual flap seal at the top of the door afterwards but it pushed the door back in away from the seal, so I chose to remove it and the door closed right back up to the seal.
 
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Marctrees

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Good thinking and Good work Rarebreed.


I am NOT trying to say "I told you so", cause that would be stupid and no point constructively.

But I am saying... It still goes back to the Installer.


To you Weekend Warriors out there......Buy an Ohead Door FROM an ohead door co, and have them turnkey install.

Pay only after you inspect the action and all details.

Marc
 
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rarebreed

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Clover, SC.
Mactrees, I kept the original door. All that the door company did was order and install the high lift and the LM 8500. It works find now other than the seal dragging a bit when it goes up until it passes the window mounding. I'll get pics soon.
 
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