Garage door size

[Harryn]

Okay having a new garage built next spring. Going to be a triple 34x26. So the question is about the overhead doors. There is going to be a single door 9ftx8ft (my workshop area) and another double door for the parking of the daily drivers. How big should this double door be 16x8 or 18x8? . I will eventually be dividing these two areas with a wall so the dust and dirt does not settle on the parking side. So my questions are how big on the big door 16 or 18ft and then the placing of the doors?

Thinking about the following layout.... (not to scale)

Any suggestions

 

[kaymccampbell]

Looks fine. I'd go with the 18 footer. Anything to try to avoid a hit.
I might consider another window on the same wall as the existing window.

 

[Prospecter]

Looks fine. I'd go with the 18 footer. Anything to try to avoid a hit.
I might consider another window on the same wall as the existing window.

Yep. Wider is always better.

 

[jrsavoie]

For a single door, I like at least 12' wide.

 

[beemerphile]

.... Wider is always better.

Yep, unless and until the door is wider than the wall or taller than the ceiling. I even had this one that was taller than the ceiling so that it disappeared into a space above the suspended ceiling.



I never figured out how to make one wider than the wall, but this guy could probably pull it off.

 

[loganb]

Absolutely as wide as possible

 

[Walkers]

Call your door guy and check on availability of each size before you make a decision. When I ordered mine I had to wait a couple months before it came in due to parts availability.

 

[housewolf]

Okay having a new garage built next spring. Going to be a triple 34x26. So the question is about the overhead doors. There is going to be a single door 9ftx8ft (my workshop area) and another double door for the parking of the daily drivers. How big should this double door be 16x8 or 18x8? . I will eventually be dividing these two areas with a wall so the dust and dirt does not settle on the parking side. So my questions are how big on the big door 16 or 18ft and then the placing of the doors?

Thinking about the following layout.... (not to scale)

Any suggestions

A “typical“ double door is 16’, an 18’ door is nice for parking two cars. A “typical” single is 8’ wide, I have two 10’ on my double garage and it’s very easy to park a boat on one side and car on the other With plenty of room to walk between. If I knew I’d never be using the shop side for parking, I don’t think I’d put wider than 8’ there. Especially if I was inclined to condition it one day (insulated doors). Obviously a narrower door will leave you more wall space.

 

[KansasArt]

Although bigger is always better, what are your DD’s? A pair of modern pickups vs a pair of compact sedans? I didn’t look at your plans too closely but if you could do a pair of single doors that would give you a 2’ buffer in between the vehicles.

 

[Harryn]

Hey everyone thanks for the feed back and opinions. As in my diagram and my narrative I have to consider the size and placement of the doors. The "workshop" side I think I am going with 9 ft wide and 8 ft high and That part is going to have a high lift door with a shaft mount opener. On that workshop side I will have scissor trusses giving me about 11'8" clearance in the center and I am doing that because I am going to get a 4 poster lift. How much wall on each side of the doors and how much between the doors?
Eventually I will divide of the workshop area from the parking area with a dividing wall that has a pocket door. So the garage is 34 ft wide I am thinking the workshop will be 14' or so and parking area will be 20' or so. Now I get everyone's point with "wider is better" but that takes up wall space. The workbench area and all the wall space will have have to also accommodate other things like 60 gallon compressor, sandblasting cabinet, large snap-on roller cabinet, table saw, furnace? The layout of all that will come after the garage is built.

I have attached the possible layouts with a 16 ft door and an 18 ft door. On the 16 ft door I do have a the possibility of narrow shelves on the parking side.

Please vote on which one I should go with 16 FT door or 18 FT door

Again the Diagrams are not to scale.....

16 foot door layout



18 foot door layout

 

[dave*99]

Last house had a 16' door. We parked a mid size SUV and a mid size car in it. The garage was about 21' wide. We parked the vehicles on a bit of an angle - vehicle fronts were further apart than the rears. This helped with door swing clearance.
I never felt we had enough room. The 16' door felt tight and the garage width also felt tight.
So I definitely think 18 is better.
What size vehicles will you park in there?
The 16' door was better than 2 single 8' doors.
An 18' door would be better yet.
New house has two 10' doors. That works best for us.

 

[Poolshark314]

Are you planning on putting an opener on the double door? If you do, you need to check what openers can support an 18 ft door or the weight.

 

[Harryn]

Thanks Dave*99. That's the kind of first hand experience I need. I know the bigger door would be better to get in an out of. The vehicles are Toyota 4Runner and Honda CRV. So midsize SUV and small SUV. Yes door opener will be on the big door as well. Good point on checking door opener capacity. If the door is set up and adjusted with the right spring tension should be easy to open?
Anyone else have feed back or an opinion.?

 

[SpringerMan]

Nothing less than 10 feet! Trust me, the 2 10 foot doors I had for over 35 years was the best thing about my garage. Except maybe the toilet, shower and sink in the laundry area!

 

[nolimits76]

I’ve moved more than the average bear so I’ve owned and rented quite a few properties. Also I’m a car guy and have owned a boatload of various things.

My point is by far and large the same old song & dance for a 2 car garage is 20’x20’ or thereabouts. Some were even less…yuck!

Best two car garage I had was one I designed at 25’x25’. Space to be comfortable and work regardless of vehicle type. Also it had tall ceilings, 9’+ and some windows for light (and aesthetics as it was a side load). I even had a separate walk door so I didn’t have to always open the garage door.

I’m not telling you what to do but if it were spending all those dollars to build a shop and I was stuck on a 14’ wide wood shop then I’d bump my overall width 6’ to get to 26’ x 40’. Install 18’ door and feel like both the car and wood areas were upgrades. That would give you a 26’x26’ for the cars which allows ample room for door swings, lawn equipment, tool boxes, etc.

Yes it’s more expensive but it’s a cost worth knowing as I think I’d kick myself for ending up at 20’ wide. YMMV. Good luck!

 

[dave*99]

^ I couldn't agree more. My current garage is 28W with two 10' doors. There is a 2 post lift in 1 bay and I can walk around both lift posts.

If you are only parking cars in the garage and no storage or repairs - you can go a bit smaller, But 20'? Nah.
Also check that 12" wall section on the right side of the 18' door plan. Is that wide enough of a corner to prevent the building racking? There are requirements--- I don't know them off hand.

 

[Harryn]

I really do get it bigger is better, but I am kind of stuck with the 34 feet wide size. So one last shot at this.
34 feet wide overall. Smaller door is 9ft wide, bigger door is 18 ft wide. That leaves 7 ft. keeping in mind what dave*99 said about the corner. Also keep in mind the workshop will have the 4 poster lift. How much on the left side, how much between the doors and how much to the right side. ???

 

[dave*99]

Do you really need the dividing wall? Would a heavy curtain work? It gives some flexibility to the space.

I have a 2 post lift. When there is no car in that bay, I can still do things. Throw some plywood on horses, cut it up, etc. A 4 post lift eats up a lot of space when it's down, and working under it on some other project seems constricting.

Are you planning to use the lift more for storing a car than working on one? 2 post leans toward service work and 4 is more toward storage. Of course you can swap that use, I'm just making a generalization.

I gave my wife the single bay and took the 2 bay garage for the lift, my hobbies and my daily driver.

 

[dave*99]

If you will have a 20’ wide garage then use a 16’ door. Not much point in a wider door if you can’t open your car door once you get in.

 

[nolimits76]

I think 12” is too narrow. On your drawings that dimension starts on the exterior of your wall. I’m not sure your wall thickness or facade type but you will easily lose 6” before you hit the inside of the garage.

Pretty sure you will need 24” minimum from outside edge of wall. Given your other preferences/constraints that leaves the only workable solution a 16’ door.

In regards to the dividing wall, I would build *structurally* so you don’t need that wall for load bearing purposes. That may mean some increased costs on the front side but you will thank yourself later if your needs or preferences change and you want it open instead.

Personally I would keep it open but if you truly need the separation on occasion it might be cool to put in one of those sliding walls. I normally see fancy ones that are glass and when opened allows you to walk from the living room to the patio. Or sometimes nicer hotels have them in their “ballrooms” so they can separate off different sizes for event needs. Obviously you need to adjust material type for garage activity but it would be a nice way to have some separation.

Or as noted, you could use a curtain of sorts.

Just remember there is a reason why houses with open floor plans sell so well. The same is somewhat true in the garage. That wall not being there allows flexibility on both the work and park sides as you can maneuver vehicles appropriately and it helps both spaces feel and function larger.

 

[dave*99]

Here is another variation. Put your Cupboard shelving on the left hand wall.
Arrange the front of the building as follows:
3' wall 9' door 4' wall 16' door 2' wall

Skip the dividing wall. Put a workbench or tool cabinet on wheels (maybe a few or them) between the work area and parking areas.
Use a welding curtain of some other movable wall to separate the spaces when needed. There are heavy clear plastic curtains used in warehouses to divide spaces. There are solid curtains and strip curtains you can walk through.

 

[Harryn]

hey thanks for all your feed back on my garage planing and lay out. Do I need that dividing wall no, it is not structural. I have a builder doing the concrete an the shell (exterior finish) and I am doing all the interior finish, insulation, electrical, sheeting (drywall)

 

[dave*99]

Leave out the dividing wall and live with it for a while. Add it later if you must.

 

[Harryn]

While I have everyone's attention... I will be talking my time and planning out the electrical layout. Here in my home town you can get what is referred to as a "Home Owners Electric permit". Before you close in the walls you need to have it inspected by the city. Then you go live and can close in the walls. That being said I need 220 volts 30amp for a welder and 220volt 30 amp for my compressor. Does anyone know what service you need for an electric vehicle charging station? Not that I have an e-vehicle but that is the way it seems to be going. The internet has conflicting info.

 

[Harryn]

After electrical is inspected is done then I can proceed on interior finish. In Canada I defiantly need insulation, vapor barrier, and then sheeting. Question about the sheeting. Drywall is the most common but is it best for a garage, or would plywood / OSB be better. Now Drywall has a bit of resistance to fire as opposed to osb, but putting up shelves or cabinets or even just a hook is probably better in osb. The local building code here is silent in the interior finish of non-living space (detached garage) so i can do what i want. Any suggestions on the interior sheeting?

 

[mike93lx]

Be careful with going too wide as it greatly impacts the strength of the wall.

Look up portal framing to ensure you can properly brace thw structure.

 

[steel 35]

I had to build a Hurricane wall for a 2' corner!

 

[nolimits76]

. That being said I need 220 volts 30amp for a welder and 220volt 30 amp for my compressor. Does anyone know what service you need for an electric vehicle charging station? Not that I have an e-vehicle but that is the way it seems to be going. The internet has conflicting info.

I think the previous owner of my current house had one. My electric panel has double 25 amp breakers for 50 amp service dedicated for “Tesla” as written in the description area of the panel. On my garage wall I have a 220v plug.

Although I don’t own an electric vehicle or have much desire to own one anytime soon, what I know about them is they can charge on just about any source including a standard 120v plug. However, the larger and more dedicated power you provide them will provide them a more quality charge through the means of faster charging and increased mileage capacity.

Wall Connector

The Tesla Wall Connector is the most efficient way to charge a Tesla at home — just plug in your vehicle overnight and wake up to a charged vehicle.

www.tesla.com

To add a little more complexity, it appears vehicle models may have varying onboard charging capacities. It appears all but one Tesla model does best on 60 amps.

Onboard Charger

Learn about the various types of on-board chargers that are built into Tesla cars and how they efficiently convert power into energy that can then be stored in the battery.

www.tesla.com

For home use, it appears Tesla shows 60 amps as their max power with what they call a “wall charger” system. Also if I understood correctly I think there is an option to change the circuit breaker in the wall charger system to match your car and power source.

I suspect amps may increase over time and vary per manufacturer. However, I think modeling around Tesla may be a reasonably safe bet if you are trying to future proof. Even if a future owner would have an electric vehicle they could always repurpose your welder and compressor plugs and be better than standard 120v. If you give them a 3rd dedicated option then a 50 or 60 amp service would be gravy IMO.

Being in Canada this link won’t help you, but those in the US can check to see if there are any incentives to offset the additional costs. Canada may have a similar program.

Alternative Fuels Data Center: Electricity Laws and Incentives

 

[Harryn]

Did not realize e vehicle charging requirements. Another question it the power requirements for a 4 poster lift. The one I am considering can be ordered for either 110 volt or 220volt .
Any suggestions there?

 

[mike93lx]

Did not realize e vehicle charging requirements. Another question it the power requirements for a 4 poster lift. The one I am considering can be ordered for either 110 volt or 220volt .
Any suggestions there?

240 can allow you to reduce wire size.

What does the manual say about current draw at each voltage?

 

[dave*99]

I always pick 240 when buying equipment. My lift runs on a 20A 240V circuit.

 

[Harryn]

Here is another variation. Put your Cupboard shelving on the left hand wall.
Arrange the front of the building as follows:
3' wall 9' door 4' wall 16' door 2' wall

Skip the dividing wall. Put a workbench or tool cabinet on wheels (maybe a few or them) between the work area and parking areas.

Thanks dave*99
This front is kind of what I had concluded to. After deciding on door placement. The dividing wall was just ever a thought that i had. An uncle of mine did suggest a curtain as well. I think I will take your advice and uncle Ed's and not do a dividing wall at least not right away. Some rolling cabinets also excellent idea. Harbour freight has some big stuff, as cheap as you can get, just have to go with a truck state side and pick up... Garage has to be built first

 

[Fav Onefour]

Run big main power when you build. It costs a bunch to upgrade and it's never simple. It's pretty easy to run sub panels later if you want more distribution.
The door size discussion can go in quite a few directions. I have a garage with the same basic layout as the drawings. I went out to measure my double door. It is a 16' with 2' off to the right side. I have a pickup and she parks a Civic. It's tight if we park straight. I will also note that the 2' on the side is needed for angle parking. On the other hand, going with the 18' door also means that your right wall is awful close. That configuration also gives you three different sized front wall facings. With yard tools hanging and other items stored, the side is going to be tight. You will end up clanging and banging if you use that wall. The man door is also going to be tight with either configuration. Do you have options to put that door in another location? Just picture going through the door with both hands full of groceries etc. It's the things you do a million times that need the efficiency.

Definitely agree on holding back with the divider wall. Build the structure as if you were doing a wall, but leave it out. I would plan on doing drains, and maybe hvac with the potential of adding a wall later.
I've dealt with clear strip curtains a lot. I wouldn't spend that kind of money. They "sorta" block, but it's not really a wall. They also get dirty and walking through leaves the debris on you. If you push through with greasy or oily hands, it's cleaning time. You might get used to the pass through without hands, but other people will not. I'd consider the idea putting in a good track system with a divider curtain. There are tons of options if you go that route.

Looks like a fun project.

 

[Harryn]

Run big main power when you build. It costs a bunch to upgrade and it's never simple. It's pretty easy to run sub panels later if you want more distribution.

I am running big power. In fact what I am doing and what all new builds around here are doing is bring the power from the power pole in the alley to the garage and then go underground to the house. No overhead wires in my back yard. So I am getting a 200amp service drop to the garage. 100 amps for the garage and 100 amps for the house.

Totally agree with not doing a divider wall. Initially I thought a good idea but now not so much. (Can always add later)

 

[cvairwerks]

Since you are still in planning stages, at some point, go over and stake the site out with tall stakes and 2” flagging tape to simulate walls. Park the cars where they should be and open the doors to check for walking space. It will definitely help you get a feel for the building prior to even moving any dirt. Lots cheaper to revise if necessary at this point.

 

[jrsavoie]

I am running big power. In fact what I am doing and what all new builds around here are doing is bring the power from the power pole in the alley to the garage and then go underground to the house. No overhead wires in my back yard. So I am getting a 200amp service drop to the garage. 100 amps for the garage and 100 amps for the house.

Totally agree with not doing a divider wall. Initially I thought a good idea but now not so much. (Can always add later)

Why not go 200 amps each way?
Not a terrible difference in price?

 

[dave*99]

I am running big power. In fact what I am doing and what all new builds around here are doing is bring the power from the power pole in the alley to the garage and then go underground to the house. No overhead wires in my back yard. So I am getting a 200amp service drop to the garage. 100 amps for the garage and 100 amps for the house.

Totally agree with not doing a divider wall. Initially I thought a good idea but now not so much. (Can always add later)

Is that really how it's done? If you have a 200A drop in the Garage - I would expect a 200A main in the garage and then the house would be on a sub off the main.

Or is your meter double tapped?

 

[mike93lx]

Is that really how it's done? If you have a 200A drop in the Garage - I would expect a 200A main in the garage and then the house would be on a sub off the main.

Or is your meter double tapped?

Could have a 200a meter main with both the garage and house as subs

 

[Steve W.]

One suggestion I have not yet seen posted might give you a little more parking space.

Whoever parks on the left side (closer to your "dividing wall") should BACK in. Stay closer to the edge of the door with both cars, the driver's doors will open into the same space in the middle. Works for us.

.

 

[dave*99]

Could have a 200a meter main with both the garage and house as subs

OK, if you did that - would you still expect the subs to be 100A each?