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Garage Door Struts

reconstyle

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Sep 1, 2019
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Florida
I just bought a new truck, and it's a tight fit in my garage. By tight, I mean I have probably about 4in of room to work with. My garage door struts are fairly deep, almost 3-4". I have a total of 5 on my door, but there are 2 of them on the bottom panel and those are the ones that are low enough to come close to the bumper when the door is opening/closing.

I know the struts are for extra support, but I'm wondering if there is a lower profile option I could use in place of the bottom 2 struts to give me a few more inches of room to spare.

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reconstyle

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That’s a lot of struts!!!! Is it extremely windy where you live? I don’t see a problem with taking the bottom one off.

I'm in central Florida, should have added that.

Garage door faces directly south, if that matters.

I'd need to take the bottom 2 off for it to make a different. There are 2 struts on the bottom panel.
 

jabin

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Could they be replaced with more but not as deep, to maintain the wind force resistance?
 
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reconstyle

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Florida
Could they be replaced with more but not as deep, to maintain the wind force resistance?

I'm not sure.

I was thinking of maybe a flat aluminum sheet across the bottom panel instead of the 2 struts?

I know flat sheets can still flex, but it's better than nothing...

Or maybe some 1x1" aluminum angle?
 

matt_i

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I think you'd be better off with a 12 gage unistrut with some tabs welded to the bottom of it for screw attachment. It will be more rigid (albeit heavier) than the thin folded top-hat channel as well as lower profile. If you can get the solid back instead of slotted it will be better.
 

PugetDude

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Could they be replaced with more but not as deep, to maintain the wind force resistance?

Probably not. Especially in Florida. Miami-Dade has the strictest wind load requirements in the country. it isn't so much about whether your door blows in, but where the rest of the house is going to land when it does. part of the testing involves firing an 8' long 2x4 out of an air cannon at the door- without the struts, it would cave in the door and yank it out of the tracks.

They're engineered to withstand hurricane/gale force wind loads, the strength is in the depth.

Heavier gauge sections will also require additional lifting force.
 
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OneOfEm

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Dec 7, 2015
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The door was engineered for the wind load for your area. The struts give the door the needed lateral stiffness. If the door blows in during a hurricane, the garage and more of your house could follow.

I'd be hesitant to swap them out without input from the garage door company.

I just finished installing a door rated for 155mph windload. It has seven struts.
 

logical

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I would set up a fiberglass flagstick or light beam sensor or tire speed bump or something (front or rear) to know you are in far enough...and leave that poor innocent door unmolested.

Sent from my garage.
 
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Jlbc212

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Northeast MA
Recently I came across an APA (the Engineered Wood Association) video titled "After the Storm - Design for High Wind Resistance." Here's the link:

https://www.apawood.org/after-the-storm

The video analyzes building failures from high wind storms and explains construction methods that should be utilized to prevent failure. One of the common initial failure points in a high wind storm is the garage door. I don't recall if the presenter suggested any improvements to the garage door, but it is worth seeing the importance of having a door capable of withstanding high wind forces.
 

driftpin

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Miami-Dade/Broward Co. Florida
I'm not sure how-long you've lived in Florida, but knowing what damage can be done in a hurricane, you don't want to compromise on your safety factors. If you really wanted to gain a couple inches, contact a P.E. and get a superior rated piece to replace your existing struts/beams. Something with a closed-box profile, with thicker walls, and a metal coating to prevent it from deteriorating over-time would probably do the trick. The method of attachment should also be examined to ensure that the design parameters are met which equal or exceed the design specifications originally accepted by the State of Florida. Since I expect your most-valuable investment in tangible property is your home, you want to keep its windload rating intact, not-to reduce it.

The big push to change windload ratings and methods of construction occurred after Hurricane Andrew. I was on-duty for that as a firefighter/paramedic in Broward County (adjoins Miami-Dade Co., to the north) and seeing what happened, even with newly-constructed buildings, having their roofs breached and removed by the wind force, you don't want-to lose your windstorm protection. Arvide Corp. (part of Disney) had a prestigious housing development in southern Miami-Dade County, Country Walk. I had a family member who purchased a two-story home in the development, and she was pleased with her new purchase.

Hurricane Andrew was supposed to make landfall at the Miami-Dade and Broward Co. border, which would have put the windstorm right on-top of where I was working. At the last moment before making landfall, it went to the south, and hit southern Miami-Dade Co. The devastation was unbelievable. Tens of thousands of housing units and other occupancies were demolished. I recall seeing a CBS church probably 20 miles from the initial landfall, where the tie beams and columns failed, causing the eastern exposure wall to catastrophically-fail.

My sister-in-law in her new home, lost the roof when the gable end failed, which caused the entire second story to collapse. They took the insurance check and moved to Broward County.

Many of my fire-rescue co-workers lived in Miami-Dade Co. I went to there to help one of them tear-off his roof and to dry it in. He was luckier than a lot of people in that he didn't lose the house. Standing on the roof, and looking as-far as you could see, it looked like a warzone. Some homes were totally-demolished, others were just four walls, some, like my co-worker's, just lost the shingles and felt, leaving exposed the sheathing. In the trailer parks, the chassis remained, but the structures were scraped-off them. Debris was everywhere, blocking roads. Powerlines and traffic control devices, and road signage were inoperable or missing.

The Florida Building Code (FBC) underwent drastic revision, and has continued to be modified as research provides more data. One of the people I know in Miami-Dade County government is a P.E. who is responsible for the testing for Miami-Dade County Product Approval, for building materials and methods of construction. My alma mater has built the Wall of Wind, which is used to provide simulation of Category 5 wind forces and is located in Miami-Dade County. It is used to test methods of construction and building materials for compliance with the FBC.

Before you make any changes to your system in-place for your protection of your home, consult a professional to determine what is equivalent to or that which exceeds your current doors' Notice of Acceptance under the HVHZ requirements of the FBC.

https://www.floridabuilding.org/fbc/wind_2010/flyer_wind_january2012.pdf

http://cgiwindows.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/Fl-Bldg-Code-6thEdition-2017.pdf

https://www.clopaydoor.com/residential/windcode-residential-information/florida-windcode
You may find some useful dimensions here, from the above link: WINDCODE GARAGE DOOR DRAWINGS
 
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jstroede

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Oct 28, 2010
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Kansas City
Living in Florida, your door was likely tested for wind rating with that exact bracing configuration. If you change them, you will most likely lessen the wind load capacity of your door. God forbid you ever have an issue, your insurance company will likely not take kindly to that.

In your part of the country, doors are done that way for a reason. I have tested hundreds of doors for wind, and I will say that even moving those braces a few inches can be the difference between a door passing and failing.

John
 
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