Garage door top seal or distortion problem

[johnqhu]

Hi,

My garage door was installed 7 years ago. It's standard double garage door, 16x7. When it was new, it's oK. But now I found the top seal is not good anymore. the two sides of the top seal is still OK, but there is a pretty big gap in the center. So I can see light from outside.

I called the original installer, he came and told me it's because the new opener is not installed properly. He can fix it but he refuse to tell me what is exactly wrong with the opener. And his charge is not cheap. The opener was installed last year by a handyman. So I called the handyman, the handyman said the original installer is lying. He asked me to unhook the opener from the door to see whether the gap is still there or not. I did that and the gap is still there. The handyman think the door should have some distortion. But there are T supports behind the door, on the top panel and the center panel.

I'm not quite sure which one is right. Maybe they are both correct? The door has distortion and proper installation of the opener could be able to correct the distortion?

I attached the photoes of the door and the opener. Hope you guys can give me some clue.

Thanks.

 

[readhead]

Looks like the operator isn’t traveling far enough to close the top panel. Did you have this problem before the new operator was installed?

 

[johnqhu]

Looks like the operator isn’t traveling far enough to close the top panel. Did you have this problem before the new operator was installed?

Not quite sure. I didn't pay much attention to it. I found it because I think there is too much dust in my garage, so I searched web to find solution for dust and was told to check seals. And then I found issue with the top seal. But when the door was installed new, there was no such problem.

 

[readhead]

I think you have your answer. Sounds like the handyman isn’t going to take any responsibility.
If you have the instructions you can work out how to adjust the stops. It is usually pretty easy.

 

[Jeepster04]

Can you easily push the top of the door closed by hand?

It looks like the arm going to the door just needs to be adjusted. You'll probably need to adjust the limits of the opener afterwards.

 

[johnqhu]

Can you easily push the top of the door closed by hand?

It looks like the arm going to the door just needs to be adjusted. You'll probably need to adjust the limits of the opener afterwards.

Not easily. Because there is T support behind the panel, need some strength to close the gap. And I adjusted the arm and the limit just now. The gap is smaller but not completely closed. And I saw tension of the horizontal opener rail. It bend to up a little. Dare not to adjust the limit more.

 

[Fav Onefour]

You are fighting multiple issues.
I'm glad you were able to do the adjustments.

It wouldn't hurt to check the top panel for bow. I wouldn't be surprised if the door has bowed slightly over time especially if the old opener was out of whack. Maybe more adjustment will cure the problem.

The picture of the arm shows it in a fairly vertical position. Adding more tension will push the door down more than outward. You already have good down pressure with the adjustments you have done.
If you feel comfortable with the adjustment process, I have another one to try. Lengthen the arm so it has a greater angle. Probably only need one hole. Then go back and readjust your stops. This time you may need to do both.

I also notice that the light shines through almost the entire length of the top. The two top rollers look like they could use a little adjustment. That can be a little tricky. It's not hard to do, but there are multiple methods. First, check if the door is close to the opener rail when it's in the up position. If you still have clearance, that would allow you to slide the top rollers inward along the slotted brackets. It wouldn't be much adjustment and should be done with the door in down position. Do the slide brackets still have room to move the rollers?
The other method is not a DIY project. The rails could be raised so the bend radius is higher. They are slightly low, but I've seen worse on functioning doors. I wouldn't go that route unless there are no other options. In fact, it would be easier to move the outer seal inward. Looks like you wouldn't even need to repaint.

 

[Youngandfree]

I put a piece of pipe insulation across the top edge of my door. Seals great and not visible from outside.

 

[johnqhu]

It's good idea. Could you show some pic then I can copy. Thanks.

 

[johnqhu]

I put a piece of pipe insulation across the top edge of my door. Seals great and not visible from outside.

It's good idea. Could you show some pic then I can copy. Thanks.

 

[Youngandfree]

It's good idea. Could you show some pic then I can copy. Thanks.

 

[walta]

To my eye it looks like the type of damage that happens when someone tries or succeeds at breaking into a garage door. They force the top panel back and go fishing for the release cord.

Walta

 

[The Cobbler]

I'm with the camp that the door isn't closing all of the way.
the arm to the door looks like it will hit the spring if the door closes more?
is there a larger gap along the bottom edge than before?
I would take the arm off of the door completely and see if the door will close more.
I'm kind of thinking the opener track is set a tad too high at the door end .