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Garage Door Track Issue

segal

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Oct 23, 2012
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I recently had a new garage door and track installed on my house and noticed something I haven't seen before, and conceivably the reason why my garage door goes up rather bumpy making lots of noise. In the attached photos, you can see that the two segements of track don't exactly match where the vertical track meets with the curved track. I called the garage door company back so they can see what I'm seeing, and they claim that this is "normal," they've seen this before, and doesn't impact the track operation. They went on to state that these are the tracks that were provided and that they just flush up the flat side (opposing side) of of the two tracks. They almost look like two different widths or perhaps one should be "flaired" and it isn't? I can hear at least one set of rollers catching that track transition on the way up. The way down seems rather smooth. Any thoughts would be greatley appreciated!

-Segal
 

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pattenp

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I had some track like that. Take a pair of pliers and do some bending to line up the curled edges. It will make a big difference to get the bump out.
 
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segal

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That sure doesn't look right, they did a lousy job.
Get the side where the rollers ride lined up.
Then if needed you could flare the flat side.

This sounds right. Why they didn't do that in the first place really bothers me because that curved track doesn't seem like it will permit adjustment without loosening and or removing about a dozen or more fricken bolts that ties that track to the mounting brack(s) and rear hanger. The installer who came back out operated the door manually and proceeded to tell me he sees this all the time and the door is operating fine. What a dope! Now I've got to either mess with this myself or contact another company who will charge me money to work on a door installation that should be under warranty. These days, I'm finding that warranties are about as worthless as a turd in a punch bowl!
 

AndyL

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Reality is - that's not bad... You should see some of the Sh*t we have to play with... :)

They're never going to be 100% perfect, they aren't wood trim - they're tracks... keep the front side aligned, the back will be close (forming method they use to bend the horizontals , and not being a true 90deg cut - means, you'll never be PERFECT).

The company is right, that is normal. However, it shouldn't be chunking/clunking through - that's another problem...
 
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segal

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Reality is - that's not bad... You should see some of the Sh*t we have to play with... :)

They're never going to be 100% perfect, they aren't wood trim - they're tracks... keep the front side aligned, the back will be close (forming method they use to bend the horizontals , and not being a true 90deg cut - means, you'll never be PERFECT).

The company is right, that is normal. However, it shouldn't be chunking/clunking through - that's another problem...
Well, that makes me feel a little better, but the harsh clunky condition of the upward travel doesn't seem right to me and I partially attribute that to the jumping from vertical to horizontal. But there may be something else going on that I'm not aware of. Could be the chain, but I checked that and it's within spec. The installer contends that the clunking is just the "nature of this door" even though identical doors in the neighborhood don't exibit these conditions.
 

AndyL

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The specifics of why it clunks, I can't diagnose over the interwebs...

Disconnect from the opener, and run it till you figure it out. Some doors are inherently noisier - but its usually creaky more than clunky.
 

Spudland_Dave

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Hmm...I had a similar "clunk" in my door when I replaced it this spring. I couldnt use the horizontal they sent me because it was 6" shorter then the existing one already hanging in the garage...so rather then move all my bracketry foward 6", I used my existing horizontals and the new vertical tracks (changed from Extension to Torsion spring, hence the need to change the vertical track)
What I found when diagnosing my clunk was the reason for it was that on the "Straight 90 Degree Bend" (side towards exterior) one leg was longer then the other by about 3/16"....took a grinder and tapered it out...voila...problem solved.

**Edit...just took your pic and circled in yellow what I mean...looking at your pic, might be the exact same issue...it does look like the top one comes out a bit more then the bottom one.
 

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pattenp

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As I said earlier my track was not aligned and caused problems with the door going up and down. Here's a pic after I did some bending of the curved track to get the joint somewhat smooth. The jamming and clunking problem was solved. The white lines mark the position of the edge of the upper curved track before bending.

View media item 25142
 
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1930artdeco

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This piece I think has narrowed down my clunking issue. Thank you for being timely and the pics what you all did.

Mike
 
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segal

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As I said earlier my track was not aligned and caused problems with the door going up and down. Here's a pic after I did some bending of the curved track to get the joint somewhat smooth. The jamming and clunking problem was solved. The white lines mark the position of the edge of the upper curved track before bending.

View media item 25142

Wow... what are the chances that I find someone on a non-specific message board with the EXACT, and I mean EXACT same issue!!!! I'd like to bend the track such as you did, but did you have to take anything apart to gain access to bending that lip outward, or did you just bend it without unmounting anything? Thank you so much for your input by the way :)[/
 

pattenp

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I did all the bending and shaping using channel lock pliers, visegrip pliers, small adjustable wrench closed down to grip the edge, piece of 1/2 steel rod clamped inside the channel to help keep the shape when I also whacked on it with a hammer. I didn't take anything apart to do it.
 
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segal

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I did all the bending and shaping using channel lock pliers, visegrip pliers, small adjustable wrench closed down to grip the edge, piece of 1/2 steel rod clamped inside the channel to help keep the shape when I also whacked on it with a hammer. I didn't take anything apart to do it.

Thanks man! Shortly after I read your post, I went out there with my trusty set of tools and attempted to follow your lead. Unfortunately, I'm must not be nearly as handy as you because I couldn't accomplish this task on my own. The track is really rigid and doesn't permit the slight tweaking I am after without damaging the track or myself for that matter! After giving up, I actually found a different local door company who saw my set of pictures and claim they can take care of it for me for a small fee. This company actually said the same thing a few previous posters said, "lousy work," and "someone was in a hurry." Thank you though for your postings, but I just couldn't duplicate the nice work you did!
 
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segal

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My tracks must have been cheap Chinese metal.

No, from the pictures, your track looks to be the same thickenss / quality but you were probalby more willing, and braver for that matter, to take the necessary swings with the hammer, and probably had just the right metal rod to prevent distorting the natural curve of the track.
 

Falcon67

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I had some of that - a couple of precise strikes with the 2 lb hand held adjuster fixed it all up.

>All those bolts holding it together seem to say you should be adjusting the track.
Some of the brackets on the vertical tracks of cheaper doors are riveted, not bolted.
 
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segal

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I had some of that - a couple of precise strikes with the 2 lb hand held adjuster fixed it all up.

>All those bolts holding it together seem to say you should be adjusting the track.
Some of the brackets on the vertical tracks of cheaper doors are riveted, not bolted.

Yes, this correct! In fact, the "bolts" on the straight run of the horizontal track are riveted, but could be drilled out I guess. Where they tie in to the mounting system and the lower track, bolts were employeed. So, there really is very little flexiblity in adjusting the tracks without actually performing some sort of "alignment" which involves bending, hammering, etc. The technician is scheduled to come by Monday. I'll be certain to take pictures of the look of the track once he's done and let folks know what he did. I'm sure he'll employ the same method of brute force to get those aligned! But I'd rather let him do it if he's done this before and knows the "tricks of the trade."
 

BillK

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My reply is not going to be how to fix the track.

My reply is ... why in the world is everyone telling this guy how to fix something that he has paid money to have installed ?????????????????????? If I paid someone to install a door and it did not work properly, you can bet your arz that I would stay on them until they fixed it !!!!! If you paid with a credit card, call your card company and tell them you are not happy and dont want to pay. They will charge it back to them. That will get thier attention and I bet it gets fixed.

As long as everyone keeps accepting this type of shoddy work, they will never figure out that they need to do it properly in the first place.

This goes for all type of work, not just garage doors.

That being said, I have two 16 ft doors at home and a twelve ft wide 14 tall one at the shop and all three of them open and close very smoothly. There should not be any "clunking" at all.

Just my opinion,
 

pattenp

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My reply is not going to be how to fix the track.

My reply is ... why in the world is everyone telling this guy how to fix something that he has paid money to have installed ??????????????????????

#1 - He called the door company and they brushed him off.

#2 - He asked for thoughts.

#3 - This is what we do on GJ. :D
 
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segal

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#1 - He called the door company and they brushed him off.

#2 - He asked for thoughts.

#3 - This is what we do on GJ. :D


Well stated! Also, I didn't pay by credit card. The install was paid for by check and it was already cashed. Additionally, I contacted the company with my displeasure and they sent a technician out to evaluate the problem. As far as the technician was concerned, there isn't a problem. As far as the company is concerned, they trust their technician and don't really care about my disatisfaction because they've got their money already.

So, Instead of fighting with them on an issue that isn't very cut and dry, I decided to solicit input from my fellow community members on this board and received the kind of input / advise I was looking for. I'm now certain that the track was done haphazardly and therefor contacted a competing installer to make this thing right when the original installer contends that no problem exists. I'm willing to pay for this out of pocket to avoid more frustration with the original installer on a warranty issue. Granted, I'm taking a chance that this other garage door company is crappy also, but they are more or less, a neutral third party who has nothing to gain by blowing me off because I'm actually paying them to solve an issue rather than expect the issue to be solved under a warranty claim. I could very well have called the original installer back and demanded that they align these tracks or even have said, "look, I'll pay to get these two tracks aligned even if you don't want to fix it under warranty because you don't consider it to be an installation issue." But why give them the benefit and have them further F-up my door!
 

upndown

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Hey segal, All you need is a garage door mans favorite adjustment tool..a Hammer! Your problem appears to be the same on both sides,the curved portion of vertical track not lining up with horizontal track!! Tap the vertical in till they line up!! If clunking continues you have other issues..Then get them back out there!!
 
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segal

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Garage track issue solved!!!! As many of you mentioned, a hammer and a little tweaking of the track was all that was needed here. It took the new garage door technician 30 seconds per track to loosen some bolts, fully align the flat sides and then bang the curved side into place with a hammer. You can't even tell that the two tracks were ever out of alignment as they fit like a glove now! Now why couldn't the original installer do that instead of wasting 15 minutes just raising and lowering the door when he could have taken 20 seconds to fix his lazyness!
 

Zeke

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! Now why couldn't the original installer do that instead of wasting 15 minutes just raising and lowering the door when he could have taken 20 seconds to fix his lazyness!
Because he is ignorant and took 15 minutes of both his and your time proving it. I run into this almost daily if I'm out and about. In fact, as a retired-by-recession contractor, I mostly make my money these days fixing things the original installer failed to do.

There is an unlimited supply of that kind of work. The problem is, most folks don't want to pay more to get things the way they were supposed to be initially. I can't blame them.
 
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segal

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Because he is ignorant and took 15 minutes of both his and your time proving it. I run into this almost daily if I'm out and about. In fact, as a retired-by-recession contractor, I mostly make my money these days fixing things the original installer failed to do.

There is an unlimited supply of that kind of work. The problem is, most folks don't want to pay more to get things the way they were supposed to be initially. I can't blame them.

Yeah, he was blatantly ignorant which made matters worst! I could have called the company back a third time and given them hell, but the owner is even more difficult to deal with (indignant at best) than his own technicians, so I just decided to eat whatever it would cost to get this thing done right by a different company. The original installer was not cheap, and they are very reputable, but failed with me.
 

gatewaysysop

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Yeah, he was blatantly ignorant which made matters worst! I could have called the company back a third time and given them hell, but the owner is even more difficult to deal with (indignant at best) than his own technicians, so I just decided to eat whatever it would cost to get this thing done right by a different company. The original installer was not cheap, and they are very reputable, but failed with me.

I've always had the experience that, if they are a licensed contractor, even suggesting a complaint to the registrar is enough to get them off their asses and actually fixing legitimate problems. Obviously, though, a lot depends on how much your time is worth vs. just fixing it yourself or paying someone else a service call fee to do it, but if you're so inclined it does get results. Sad that business has to be conducted that way, you'd think people could just be honest and do right without someone twisting their wrist. What a concept. :dunno:
 

heidis

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Nov 13, 2012
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Hi guys,
I ended up on this forum because I was looking for some info on my garage door that clunks when going down. This is good info, but I'm very much a novice do-it-yourselfer, so I'll probably have to pay someone to fix it. I'd like some advice on whether this is an urgent issue. It's been happening for a couple of months and I'm wondering if I'm causing other/ bigger issues by not having it fixed right away. Thanks!

~Heidi
 

upndown

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Heide, that would depend on why it's clunking, kinda tough to tell from your description! Start a thread before you pay someone, with a few pictures maybe we can help you figure it out..:beer:
 
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