Garage door track mounting board

[rktinc]

I am installing a new garage door inside my shop. It will be an aluminum frame glass door. I have always seen builders/carpenters surround the inside door frame with 2x6 boards for the garage door tracks to mount to. My wall framing is actually 100 year old 2x8 and doubled. It is very sturdy.

I was thinking about using 1x6 to mount the door tracks to instead of the traditional 2x6. Any reason why this would not work. The door frame lag screws will penetrate the 1x6 and sink well into the solid 2x8 frame beneath. I am trying to match the 1x trim boards on the wall inside the room.


thoughts?

 

[wssix99]

A 1X will not have enough purchase for the lag bolts to stand up (as designed) to wind and other loads. You would need to have your bolts hit the exact center of the studs, at which point there isn't any point in having a board.

Here is a thread that discusses the problem you are facing. You might continue the discussion there where people have already tackled this: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/framing-question-for-garage-door-track-mounting.367805/

 

[rktinc]

Thank you for the link. The door is actually an internal door between two large rooms of my building so no wind loads to contend with. I have built up the framing so the lag bolts would have a good place to sink into and grab. My primary concern would be if the door frames/track systems need a 2x6 to actually mount too or if they just require a smooth surface for a flush mount. I have looked at all of my other doors and it looks as if they could be mounted on any flat surface understanding that the lag bolts must find a good foundation to grab on to.

 

[CraigStu]

"...Any reason why this would not work. The door frame lag screws will penetrate the 1x6 and sink well into the solid 2x8 frame beneath."
Seems to me that would be just fine. The 1x6 is just a 3/4inch spacer.

 

[wssix99]

My primary concern would be if the door frames/track systems need a 2x6 to actually mount too or if they just require a smooth surface for a flush mount.

The flush surface probably makes for a smoother installation, but the main thing is the 2X lumber gives the proper depth for the lag bolts to bite. The tracks get placed depending on the exact door width, so we can't always plan for the brackets to hit a stud. (That's the big complication. Yes, your lag bolts could go through the 1X and hit the studs, but if it lands right between the studs, the lag bolt won't get a good bite beyond the 1X and won't be doing anything.)

 

[rktinc]

The flush surface probably makes for a smoother installation, but the main thing is the 2X lumber gives the proper depth for the lag bolts to bite. The tracks get placed depending on the exact door width, so we can't always plan for the brackets to hit a stud. (That's the big complication. Yes, your lag bolts could go through the 1X and hit the studs, but if it lands right between the studs, the lag bolt won't get a good bite beyond the 1X and won't be doing anything.)

That is a good point. A 3/8 lag bolt in an extra length my help with that possibility a bit. One could also drill a few extra holes to mount the track in additional spots. This is an interesting custom install so far so I will undoubtedly find myself building several unique items during the install.

Thank you all for the input.

 

[The Cobbler]

you could double up your 2x again and face it with your 1x .even use 1" longer lags to be sure you get good bite. but I would be sure the rollers will adjust down enough for the 1x as 2x is the common used

 

[ipgenie]

I saw a door mounted using 1" drywall screws for the side rails. Lags were only used in the header to support the spring tube. It had been used that way for years.
There isn't much load on the side rails so you are probably going to be fine as long as the header and upper rails are properly anchored to handle the tortion and weight.

 

[Zeke]

I saw a door mounted using 1" drywall screws for the side rails. Lags were only used in the header to support the spring tube. It had been used that way for years.
There isn't much load on the side rails so you are probably going to be fine as long as the header and upper rails are properly anchored to handle the tortion and weight.

This^^^ I was going to suggest this even before I read this far. Although I would get a better grade truss head screw to cover the holes. Might even use washers.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I know of several garages where the tracks are mounted directly to the studs. Most of those are older with extension springs. My garage door installer had me frame my doors with 2x6sas you describe. The only logic I could see is that it puts the mounting surface for the tracks even with the mounting surface of the spring mechanism.

 

[PassnThru]

I am installing a new garage door inside my shop. It will be an aluminum frame glass door. I have always seen builders/carpenters surround the inside door frame with 2x6 boards for the garage door tracks to mount to. My wall framing is actually 100 year old 2x8 and doubled. It is very sturdy.

I was thinking about using 1x6 to mount the door tracks to instead of the traditional 2x6. Any reason why this would not work. The door frame lag screws will penetrate the 1x6 and sink well into the solid 2x8 frame beneath. I am trying to match the 1x trim boards on the wall inside the room.


thoughts?

I read that as he is replacing a current door that is lagged into 2X8 wall framing currently. If it's the same size door then it most likely hit the same 2X8 framing that the old door did.
Apparently from the replies I read something wrong.
Then again, maybe maybe I didn't so - your door will now be recessed 3/4" so you'll have to replace the outer weatherstripping. Mount your new 1X6 flush to the door frame so you have support for the new weatherstrip. Don't reuse your old lags - buy new ones an inch longer. Secure the 1X6 to the wall - hang your door.
I really don't see a problem here.

 

[PassnThru]

The only logic I could see is that it puts the mounting surface for the tracks even with the mounting surface of the spring mechanism.

That's a good point - if the door is pulled back then the spring mechanism should be also. When my garage was built the doors were installed to the bare framing. When I finished it out I used 1X6 boards to frame the opening but I took the sides up to the ceiling where the spools were and refastened everything. The spring mount (middle) has an adjustment that can compensate without adding the same board there.

 

[rktinc]

I read that as he is replacing a current door that is lagged into 2X8 wall framing currently. If it's the same size door then it most likely hit the same 2X8 framing that the old door did.
Apparently from the replies I read something wrong.
Then again, maybe maybe I didn't so - your door will now be recessed 3/4" so you'll have to replace the outer weatherstripping. Mount your new 1X6 flush to the door frame so you have support for the new weatherstrip. Don't reuse your old lags - buy new ones an inch longer. Secure the 1X6 to the wall - hang your door.
I really don't see a problem here.

It is actually being mounted in a brand new opening I cut into a wall. The door will be an aluminum frame full glass 9x8. No significant weather stripping will be needed as it is just a clear barrier between two existing interior rooms in my shop. Since the door will be mounted on the flush wall framing, I thought that the door hardware just needed a secure, flat surface to mount to whether it be 2x, 1,x or a 4" post and beam. I will look at the spring mounts on the doors I research but it appear to me they mount on the same plane as the door tracks.

I am trying to post a couple photos but the system seems to be fighting me on that so far.


Thanks for all of the input.

 

[PassnThru]

My apologies - I missed that part. Fill out the framing to make sure you hit a stud and you can do anything you want to from that point on. The only caveat is to provide a flush surface to mount the tracks and the spools on if it's a torsion spring door (take it all the way up). The middle spring mount will have an adjustment built in. If you have extension springs, then basically the same thing - take it all the way up. Don't forget the 1 by at the top so the door itself is sitting against a plumb surface.