Garage door trim - question

[katit]

Folks,

I'm puzzled on what to do. Typical situation when garage was framed/insulated/drywall AFTER build, etc.

So, garage door just clears drywall above. Not sure how I go about installing trim around and making door look OK. All garage finished but I have this ugly drywall cut-outs for track mounting, etc.

Do you have any pictures how you finished it/made prettier?

 

[Groovy]

I bought this 3" (I think its 3") Weather strip for the casement outside of the insulated garage door its gets nailed with included nails into holes that are pre punched in the strip. I used it around the exterior and really helped alot keep the wind and cold from the bay out and it looked pretty good so I took a piece of that and fliped it over and did it allong the top of the garage door. I have a header with old license plates above that but it really cleaned up were you could see the 2X4's and seems to keep the draft down there and was cheap. Hard to tell what you are talking about without a pic though. A piece of Crown molding or ripped down 3/4 inch stained or painted wood maybe would look custom...

 

[katit]

On outside I got it finished no problem and really like it. I'm talking inside. I will try to get pictures to post.

 

[PassnThru]

When I put up my OSB I kept it a certain distance from the door opening. I then took some 1 by boards and routed a 7/16" groove (the thickness of the OSB) on one side to fit over the OSB. I prefinished them (painted white) and then actually removed the doors to finish the trim out. Both the trim (white) and the OSB are nailed to the studs - the trim is not nailed on top of the OSB. It was a hassle but it definitely looks more finished. You can see above and between the two main doors here:
View media item 3372

 

[Cwood8656]

I think your best bet is to do as PassnThru suggests. I thought ahead for once and had the pine installed on top of the sheet rock that day the door guy was there to install.

 

[katit]

I see you got door tracks and stuff mounted on top. In my case - they mounted to studs, so I have to figure what to do around..

 

[katit]

Cwood8656
Funny how we all do similar stuff. I also have Liftmaster but it was PITA because of same thing - drywall. Had to cut drywall to install unit. I also had this new "safe" springs which means there was no way to mount cable tensioner monitor. I had to make extention on lather..

I also see you got mount for AC remote

Now that I think around - right way will be to wait til summer, remove door, redo outside trim and mount door on TOP like you guys did. I can solve lot's of issues with opener and so on if I do it this way. Seems like I'm going to do it right and wait for spring then.

 

[jstroede]

post up some pictures. Surely we can come up with something to help.

John

 

[PassnThru]

I see you got door tracks and stuff mounted on top. In my case - they mounted to studs, so I have to figure what to do around..

My tracks were mounted to the studs also. I took the door down - installed the trim - and put the door back up.

 

[katit]

My tracks were mounted to the studs also. I took the door down - installed the trim - and put the door back up.

Right. But now your door moved 1/2 inside if I understand correctly

 

[Kevro]

Right. But now your door moved 1/2 inside if I understand correctly

I did the same thing, remove door, install 1x trim, reinstall door. So yes, the door moved in 3/4", and I had to reposition the outside vinyl trim to cover the gap.

 

[katit]

Thats great and makes total sense. I will just wait for spring and do whole thing. Too bad I already installed new brick mould, outside vinyl trim, caulked and painted..

 

[PassnThru]

Right. But now your door moved 1/2 inside if I understand correctly

I did the same thing, remove door, install 1x trim, reinstall door. So yes, the door moved in 3/4", and I had to reposition the outside vinyl trim to cover the gap.

Same as Kevro for me. Moved the doors in 3/4" - I actually replaced my outside seals instead of just moving the old ones. The only catch is to hope that the metal/vinyl covering the door jambs goes in far enough to be covered by the relocated seals.
Also, in case you decide to do this. I wanted the door tracks to line back up exactly with the old lag screw holes. If I didn't line them up exactly I knew the new holes would be close enough that part of the lag might be in the old hole in effect weakening the grip.
I took a short piece of 1 X 6 and cut one end to a point - not a perfect point - the point should be higher than the mid line on the board. I then drilled a hole the same size as the existing lag screw holes in the board back toward the flat end. Before I put the trim up, I took a round screwdriver and put it through the hole in the board and into the lag screw hole. I then traced the pointed end of the board on the wall (onto painters tape since I had already painted the wall). When the trim was finished, I lined the end back up with my mark and drilled through the trim. So each lag went back in it's original hole.
That would make a lot more sense if you saw it being done.

 

[katit]

I'm not even sure I will reuse my tracks and springs. I got this super-insulated expensive door from clopay and it came with 22ga hinges and other stuff I replaced all hinges/rollers but rod/rails and other stuff still weak. I may just go and get better stuff since door is really heavy.

 

[jstroede]

Standard vertical tracks are only about .050 thick with the horizontal tracks being slightly thicker. This is standard on most residential doors up to 8' high. Heavier doors will get a longer angle to reinforce the horizontal track. As far as the hinges go, the thinnest hinges that I know of are embossed 18 gauge. Most non embossed hinges are 16 or 14 gauge, though some really heavy applications might use 11 gauge.

I don't know what your idea of really heavy is, but standard residential type door under 500 lbs is not really heavy to me. Unless you have a wood door of some sort, I can pretty much guarantee you that you are not in that range.

John

 

[jstroede]

Also, if you do have to move the trim, they do make a wider version that is about 3" wide, but it is a little expensive.

John

 

[katit]

For the outside trim I can probaby reuse current one. But I will need to replace brick mould with wide one.

 

[katit]

Also, I think you right about gauge. It was 18ga and I got 11 as replacement. Door is insulated thicker one 16x7 4 panels. Standard hardware (18?) and I can see hinges bending under door weight