Garage door weatherstripping

[GearRatio]

Good day all, I'm a new member, long time lurker. Thanks to all of you for the information and inspiration for many years.

I'm now finally at the point where I'll get my first shop and still at the stage where I'm getting garage door installation done. The doors are in, but the installers didn't put on the weather stripping because the hole in the aluminium of the weatherstrips falls in between my interior frame and door sill, where the "L" normally meets. I'll try to upload pictures later.

The question is if I were to shim the gap to be able to screw the weather stripping in the shims where the gap once was, would that be solid long term? Anyone did this before? This was necessary has the frame are in concrete openings that were not sitting flush, concrete forms panels moved, resulting in an uneven surface to frame in.

 

[Falcon67]

That's gonna take pictures to explain IMHO. All weather strip usually found here on doors with wood frames are vinyl that attach to the exterior door trim.

 

[GearRatio]

Thank you, I'm headed to the worksite, I'll take some picture. Hopefully, I'll be able to post them from there today. Best regards.

 

[GearRatio]

Here are some pictures. The resorted to screwing diagonally into solid wood. Leaves fasteners not sitting flush with the trim. I like it better than no weatherstripping, but is there a better solution?

 

[Boilerhouse]

Looks to me like the weatherstripping is attached to rough framing. I would trim the rough opening with either 1 inch or 2 inch thick pine, cedar, or pressure treated lumber to whatever the required width is. Paint or stain the trim and then you have a nice looking and solid surface to weatherstrip.

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

Picture 1,2 or three I see no weatherstrip. #4 looks like a barn steel trim. See no weatherstrip on 5 either. Depending on how you plan on finishing the outside you can trim out the door opening with a pine board, Hardee, even plywood if you plan on wrapping the wood with coil stock. That will give you a solid base to nail the seals to. Most seals are plastic with a flexible seal. They nail on or screw on, one company makes a plastic retainer that the seal slides into but basically the jamb is always finished and trimmed out first.

 

[Falcon67]

Looks to me like the weatherstripping is attached to rough framing. I would trim the rough opening with either 1 inch or 2 inch thick pine, cedar, or pressure treated lumber to whatever the required width is. Paint or stain the trim and then you have a nice looking and solid surface to weatherstrip.

Same - my rough in is finished with 1x trim and the weather strip attached to that outside the door.

 

[GearRatio]

The rough framing is concrete. The lumber was sized to match the garage door intended opening size of 12' x 10'. This size is a direct result of a garage journal addiction with added benefit of being future proof.

I used cedar, fastened with powder actuated fasteners inside the opening. The rails are supported by the lumber on the inside wall that is screwed into the inside frame and anchored with 3/8 masonry anchors, one at the bottom and two at the top.

The idea of trimming with plywood sounds good, it would slightly reduce the opening. 3/8 plywood would offer enough grip to a fastener to keep weatherstripping in place I guess.

 

[BudgetRacing]

The weather seal already has holes in the aluminum? If so the putting shims into the gap would likely be fine for the side seals. The top is usually where you would have trouble with bad mounting. There is almost no force on the side unless you put it too tight.

 

[Worsedog]

I'll preface my comment with "I am not a carpenter but", after looking at my doors, the finish trim needs to be installed then the w/s over that. There appears to be only the rough opening there.