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Garage door

Hondaracer2oo4

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Feb 22, 2016
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Canterbury NH
Building a three car garage. I am looking for opinions on garage door brands and models. Looking for a door with around r15 insulation and is a well made door. I want the most plain Jane looking door. Panels flat with just a texture/wood grain look to it, usually called a commercial door. They will be painted to match garage. I was looking at http://www.garaga.com/garage-doors/commercial/

The model Tg6200 that I like but it is only r10. The dealer had the best cash and carry price so far. $550 with tracks included.
 
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Hondaracer2oo4

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Feb 22, 2016
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Canterbury NH
So I got quotes back on doors and I was wondering about any opinions on door models. The garage will be heated so I am looking for good air sealing above all and then claimed r value is second. Doors are 9x9

Overhead door model. 494 with tracks $750
194 with tracks $575

Garaga door model TG6200 with tracks $550
Standard + with tacks $875
 
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Hondaracer2oo4

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After reading a blog on green building advisor I realized how much of a farse "r" values listed by garage door manufacturers are. There is no set testing procedures in garage doors and the manufacturers claim more r value than is even possible with the amount of insulation that is in the door. A few doors tested around 6.5 r when the claim from the manufacturer was 16-17.5. That is why I am focusing on a well built air sealing door and not claimed r value.
 

gnpenning

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I have more questions than answers.
I've been saying that for years. When I get a call and the first thing they ask is R value I know I'm wasting my time. To many manufactures with some very creative R values. I have samples for several manufactures with the exact same piece of insulation and the they all have a wide range of CLAIMED R values. But one.

Plenty of people to bite on this joke.

The same goes for gauge of steel used. Most have a interesting gauge for measuring thickness. Only a few manufactures use the same gauge of steel for the inside as the outside. This will help with your wind loading.

Anything they sale at a box store are not something I would put on my own home. The same with openers. While the openers are name brand they are not the same as the ones most dealers sale. Anything other than a 1 piece track will have a fair amount of flex in it. They even have there own code that shows that they are made for the store and to their specs.
 

DeliveryGuy

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The listed R value is likely true in laboratory conditions. It's the real world R value that matters, which is a fraction of the claimed R value. It doesn't matter if the door is 1ft thick with perfect insulation, you will still have the exact same thin rubber gasket around the perimeter as weatherstrip, which has no R value. What's the R value of the door when you open it 10 times a day and let all the heat out?

About your Garaga doors: If you get those "flush" doors, the steel skins will form large bubbles with the heat of the sun. Garaga is very popular around here, and there are hundreds of door around here that have massive ripples in the steel skin because it separates from the foam in the sun.

And, their repeating wood grain texture repeats about every 3ft, so it looks ridiculous across the flush panels.

Another and, they rely heavily on that R value marketing bullcrap, claiming that their wood blocking inside the panels actually increases the efficiency of the door vs a standard steel end cap, but wood is a terrible insulator as we all know, and rots in the moist garage conditions.

The Haas 2" thick, R18 door has a thick rubber gasket inside the tongue-and-groove joint. They are very air tight. Also, Haas' "Limited Lifetime Warranty" isn't three pages long like Garaga's, and doesn't devalue the Lifetime Warranty (25yr) by 50% if your garage faces south. Go on the Garaga website and read it yourself. If your garage faces south, there is a long list of their products that the 25yr lifetime warranty is reduced by 50%. It's because of the steel separating from the foam in the heat of the sun.
 
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Hondaracer2oo4

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Interesting info. I had read from another forum that garaga has a great around the perimeter gasket seal and if nothing else buy the gasket seal they sell and put it around whatever door you buy. The garage faces east so it gets sun early morning and that's about it. But I will be painting th doors a dark red color so that would get hot. So can you really see the wood grain texture from 5 feet back? I figured it would just blend into the door at 5+ feet. I will have to get a hass door quote and see where they are on price. Any idea about the overhead brand?
 

vette66bob

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Jun 3, 2009
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North Jersey
I have been following a few posts on garage doors here on Garage Door Journal. There are many suggestions. One of the best descriptions was advice on the quality,
"Stay away from soda can thickness metal doors"
I have looked into roll up door manufactures for storage facilities, some are very reasonable. Good luck.
 

gnpenning

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I have more questions than answers.
Hondaracer, Yes I do. I'm direct with several brands, mostly just for replacement panels that others have installed. The main door I carry and put on my own home is Midland. They do not have a presence as far east as you are. I've talked to my rep many times about the fact the need to advertise. They are a very quality oriented business. In over 15 yrs dealing with them I can think of 1 time I had a manufacture defect and it was excess glue around window frames. Easy clean up. They have been working on a high R value door for sometime and have not found a mixture that will hold a high R, and won't sale it until they know it works. They always claim lower R even with the same insulation as others.

As to what is available in your area I no idea. Some of the ones I would stay away from are Wayne Dalton, Phoenix, Steel Craft, and as mentioned anything the box stores carry. I know some around here like them. Compared to some they may have see they maybe better, but once you have dealt with a quality door the difference is obvious.

Anything with a spot weld or rivet on the end stiles (except pan doors), no thermo break between front and back styles and panels (this only applies to steel backed doors), Lite gauge steel, cheap hinges, rollers and track, non adjustable track. No struts or opener mounting plates on 10' or 18' wide doors. Stay away from springs that wind with a drill.

Frame your opening 1" narrower and 1/2" shorter. You will greatly reduce heat loss this way. I have one door that doesn't get used during the winter, snow can pile up next to the door and jamb, even with radiant heat it doesn't melt. Yes I have a good thermo break at the slab. Goal post your opening with the verticals being 2x6 or better. Make sure your spring mounts have solid backing. the spring just wants to pull it self off the wall, when it can't do that it will open the door. Other than the vertical back hang I don't like lagging over sheetrock.

Compare different doors and look at construction of door. I use Liftmaster openers with one piece tracks. Not a fan of the 8500, I have seen too many issues. While many here think they are the cure all you will find links here of others that have had 2 and 3 replacement ones that didn't work properly. They have their place and in the right situation I will sale them, other wise I let my competitors have the call back and headache. when you have to warranty your work you should be smarter about the parts you use. Your garage door is the largest and heaviest item on your home and taking up around 30% of the front of your house. Most people will put more thought, effort and money in a bathroom faucet. The garage door is a after thought and low on money purchase. Do it right do it once. The fact you are checking into it will help you down the road. I love the chain dealers they have made me alot of money going behind them and cleaning up their mistakes.
 
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Z2V

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Gnpenning, you stated that your not a fan of 8500 because of too many issues. Could you share some of those issues with us?
Hondaracer, not trying to hijack your thread.
Thanks
 

gnpenning

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I have more questions than answers.
Here's 2 recent ones from members here. I've seen bad encoders right out of the box enough that I carry new ones when I go do an install. If you search you will find many others. And yes you will find people singing there praise. For a point of reference try to find any other Liftmaster openers with the same amount of negative feed back. You will find more for the 3800/3900/8500 than all the others combined. The 8500 was a upgraded version of the 3800/3900 because of issue's.

They are designed to be used for highlift doors and should be used with pusher springs other wise as per manufactures recommendations. Many jump the cables otherwise. Again a little search will find plenty of references.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=335272&highlight=8500

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=335893&highlight=8500
 
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Z2V

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The first was a bad board after six years and the second sounded more like bad install to start with.
I'll be doing hi lift with 8500 soon in my garage. Any other options for jack shaft openers that you would recommend over 8500?
Again, thanks
 

gnpenning

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I have more questions than answers.
Depends on the size of door. 8500 is limited to 180 sq ft or less for door size. Liftmaster makes some great commercial Jackshaft openers.

You can try the 8500, generally if you get thru the first year without issues they work fine. The ones that work are good openers. Just beware they have known issues. Your putting in a high lift which is a good start.

Done with the thread highjack. Sorry Hondaracer.
 
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Hondaracer2oo4

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No problems. We are actually still on topic for me because I had planned to use te 8500. So 180 is max size for a door which is good because mine will be 9x9. Also they will be high lift door tracks so that's also good. I will frame the doors in a little extra than planned. I will contact hass for a quote. Got a model suggestion? I just want a plain flat panel with wood grain. No windows.
 

Pate

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I have Clopay 9200 series installed on my garage and very happy with them so far.
 

DeliveryGuy

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Haas model 2010 is a 2" thick door with a flush, wood grain textured panel. It's called "Flush".

Haas model 2012 is the same, but with small horizontal grooves. It's called "V-Groove."

2010 is the R18 2" thick door with the nice panel joint gasket. The 710 is 1-3/4" thick R16, and 610 is 1-3/8" thick R13. I don't think the 600's or 700's have the tongue and groove gasket.
 

DeliveryGuy

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Some info about the weatherstripping. Most garage door companies only manufacture the sections. Very few door companies actually manufacture the tracks, weatherstrip, springs, hinges, etc. There are companies, unknown to the consumer, that manufacture all these sundry items, and supply the parts to the door companies in bulk to sell as kits. One such company is Collier. They make tracks, hinges, etc. Another is Lynx. Most of these parts are interchangeable. So, if you have a Haas door, which has Collier hardware, you can go buy a Lynx hinge to repair your door.

There's a Canadian weatherstripping and injection molding company that make garage door weather seals, and this is who supplies Garaga with their weather seal. They supply one of Canada's Haas distributors as well. That nice weatherstrip you mentioned is Elton 1104. It's good stuff, but mildews quickly because of the high natural rubber content. So, you have to clean it yearly.
 

justbarriault

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HondaRacer let me know what you decide. I've got quotes from Laurent Door in Laconia, Quality Insulation in Meredith, Overhead Door in Concord, and now DeliveryGuy has me convinced to look into Haas, so I have just requested a quote on those from Pelham Building Supply. Pretty much all of them stop saying anything when I've asked for some affordable ideas on how to dress the doors up a little
 

justbarriault

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Tilton, NH
My favorite style is the Haas 2070 Ranch Panel. A close second is the 2063 Long Recessed Panel. They do a black door, too, which many manufacturers would not do years ago because of heat damage.


Do you know how much more I should expect to pay over a garaga or Wayne Dalton? I do like quality, but within reason. I think that MAY be why my garage went from being a cheap basic build to where it stands now, WAY OVER BUDGET haha...
 
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Hondaracer2oo4

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Feb 22, 2016
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Canterbury NH
Any thoughts on the Overhead door brand model 495 series thermacore. I have quotes from haas 2000 series doors for $875 each with rails, torsion springs and weather seals. I have a quote on garaga standard + for rails, torsion springs and weather seals for $875. The haas is 2 inches thick and garaga 1 3/4. The overhead door is $750 with the same stuff included. Looking for good air sealing.
 

justbarriault

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Tilton, NH
Any thoughts on the Overhead door brand model 495 series thermacore. I have quotes from haas 2000 series doors for $875 each with rails, torsion springs and weather seals. I have a quote on garaga standard + for rails, torsion springs and weather seals for $875. The haas is 2 inches thick and garaga 1 3/4. The overhead door is $750 with the same stuff included. Looking for good air sealing.

I had the Garaga 5000 series installed with jackshaft openers through Laurent. They came out AWESOME
 

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nh_yota

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IMHO, they are all more or less the same and the installer/dealer you choose makes more of a difference than the door itself. This is why manufacturers tout unrealistic R values because they're just trying to differentiate their product from everyone else, even though they're all just a metal box filled with foam.

The hardware is standardized so key differences between models are the gauge of the metal, the finish on it and the weather seal between the panels.

In my experience, the heavier/thicker the door, the better.
 

Vintage Veloce

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I'll say, the installer may matter more than the door. And in my experience, you need to stand there and watch them do the install if you want it perfect.
I wouldn't pick a door that my favorite installer didn't like or carry.
You are correct on air leaks. You may want to install the seals yourself, as the installer is likely to just run those up in mere seconds. Mine came out fine, but would have been better if I did them myself. ;-)
 
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Hondaracer2oo4

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Thanks guys. I plan on doing the install myself. So no experience with overhead thermacore series? They Are $125 cheaper per door than the haas or garaga. I am tempted to go with them.
 
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