Garage electric furnace

[ohiofordnut]

Hi my son got a used electric garage furnace gave to him . The only reason the guy took it down was he added on to his garage .It looks like new even though its a older one and the guy told him it worked good .But he didn't know what the 3 wires coming out the back went to .Its 220 and has two thermostat wires also the wires are all grey and go to a I guess transformer then splits off and goes to 10 elements .I wired my house and garage so I know wiring but these aren't color coded being all three are grey .Im at a stand still I tried loading a pic but didn't have any luck .Any help is appreciated
Thanks John

 

[Ohmthis]

John if you can just post up the make and model #, we can probably look up the schematic and help out more.

 

[ohiofordnut]

Singer UHS-10 thank you

 

[Rookie2]

240volts,

http://www.h-mac.com/product-catalogs/markel/markel-uh-installation-guide.pdf

 

[ohiofordnut]

Rookie2 Thanks that's a great description of the furnace But nothing to do with the wiring . Thanks

 

[JRC3]

Is there a removable cover where the wires go in? I bet there are stud type terminals like a clothes dryer to change a pigtail.

 

[ohiofordnut]

Yes there is but idk which wires go where when I tie it in at a breaker .thanks

 

[JRC3]

Look at the connectors. If they aren't labeled your hots will probably be brass colored. The neutral may also be grounded to the chassis. If no to those then count on the neutral being in the middle.

 

[Ohmthis]

Ohio, go back and look at the link that rookie 2 posted. On page 3 it shows an exploded view. You will see "line terminal block" that is where you land your two "hot" wires and the ground should go to a green screw or lug close by. I'm not sure what the gray wires are. I'm still looking for an acceptable wiring diagram. Hope this gets you closer.

 

[ohiofordnut]

I have the 3 wires that are screwed into the block but they aren't color coded they are just grey wires .And they tie into the block and they all go to the heating elements .That's why I figure that they all are hot and the blocks usually have one that's a ground and is silver because the other two would be brass color but not in this one .I have a picture of it but cant load the picture for some reason .

 

[ohiofordnut]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=4899&pictureid=58045

Heres the wiring .The 3 wires come out the bottom of the block

 

[Rookie2]

That is a 3phase contactor controlled by probably a 24v thermostat . You need a full model number to get a schematic and maybe an electrician to make it work on single phase.

 

[Ohmthis]

That is either a contactor (but I don't see the control wires) or a fuse block. It is definitely 3 phase, I'm not sure if you can use it (you will need 3 phase or a converter). The side with the two little wires, is the load side (the little wires go to a transformer I'm sure). The other side looks like factory wiring with the yellow tacons. If you follow where they go, I'm betting it's a disconnect. The field (your wiring) would connect there.

 

[Topglass]

That is either a contactor (but I don't see the control wires) or a fuse block. It is definitely 3 phase, I'm not sure if you can use it (you will need 3 phase or a converter). The side with the two little wires, is the load side (the little wires go to a transformer I'm sure). The other side looks like factory wiring with the yellow tacons. If you follow where they go, I'm betting it's a disconnect. The field (your wiring) would connect there.

Hi! New here but I came for the same reason. I have UHS-10 heater. I too need help wiring because I only have two wires coming out of the armoured cable. I do have the Tag though and it is definitely not 3 phase. It says single phaze 60 hz. I believe it's a contactor not a terminal block. I was hoping to find a schematic. Did John get his successfully operating? My issue is I have L1 and L2 but no nuetral or ground. Where John's 3 screws at the bottom and three at the top of the contactor I have two. Also there is a fuse block but it's under the case separated from where the contactor is.. I'll attempt posting pics.