Garage Epoxy Question - Time Sensitive

[brandoncolorado]

Hi all,

I've really appreciated reading through some of the discussions about epoxy coatings for garage floors. Today at about noon, I started adding an epoxy coating to my garage. I used the "Rust-Oleum Professional" coating with the plastic chips. Unfortunately, I didn't add the grit material.

Based upon my reading today, I think I might have made a fairly serious mistake. Being that the first layer is still drying (and still has chips), can I remedy this with a clear coat epoxy? If so, when do I add that layer, and which type of grit can I get?

It will have to be something that I can get in a fairly large town (think home depot or lowes) because otherwise I might miss my time window.

Thanks for your help.

(Pictures attached).

 

[911mike]

Unless you can get a clear coat from Rest- Oleum I think your gambling on it being compatible. My suggestion is apply a second coat just like the first with the flakes but this time include the nonskid powder. Most are a very fine sand. I know that the Sherwin Williams stores by me care the powders.

When you use this you need to constantly stir the paint. I found that stirring in the can and then pouring it on the floor works best. If you use a tray fill it only 1/4 - 1/2 way to keep fresh stirred paint in it.

Good Luck

 

[brandoncolorado]

Thanks for your help.

I did find this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...oor-Coating-Kit-263997/203280029#.UfWhyY3VBS5

It appears that they have it by me. I might give it a shot because, as you mentioned, compatibility might not be an issue.

 

[911mike]

Sounds like you got lucky. Now you just need to fine the non skid.

 

[brtsvg]

I applied this same stuff in my garage floor two years ago and didn't add any non-slip sand or other material. I rolled it on thick and the roller left a bit of texture. The plastic chips you throw on do add a bit of non-skid texture to the surface and is sufficient to avoid slips even when wet.

In my book adding another coat of clear is overkill that really isn't necessary for non-commercial applications. It would make it more slick as well.

 

[brandoncolorado]

Thank you both.

I did actually go purchase the clear coat from home depot. I can return it if I am sufficiently happy with the texture of the base layer.

For anyone who finds this thread later, the clear kit does come with grit powder. We'll see how it looks/feels tomorrow after the required 18 hour wait!

 

[Articul8]

What brand epoxy did you use,Your not going to be satisfied, as I told another guy in hear my friend just finished his floor and that Rustoluem is a enamel base and it doesn't harden like the epoxy leaving gashes and smear marks, you honestly would be better applying a second coat to soak up what you were talking about and buying a bag a sand from Home Depot for 4 bucks use a couple hand fills on the floor if you want non skid and return that kit. My buddy has invested 8-900 dollars in that Rustoluem kit and still has to put his mustang on carpet so it doesn't peel up when he rolls it out

 

[brandoncolorado]

What brand epoxy did you use,Your not going to be satisfied, as I told another guy in hear my friend just finished his floor and that Rustoluem is a enamel base and it doesn't harden like the epoxy leaving gashes and smear marks, you honestly would be better applying a second coat to soak up what you were talking about and buying a bag a sand from Home Depot for 4 bucks use a couple hand fills on the floor if you want non skid and return that kit. My buddy has invested 8-900 dollars in that Rustoluem kit and still has to put his mustang on carpet so it doesn't peel up when he rolls it out

I used this for the base:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0008JIQUO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I am planning to use this for the epoxy clear coat:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FG0JAA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The reviews for both are generally positive. The base layer looks good, but not perfect. As I am sure is always the case some areas are uneven and some are a bit more textured than I like. Most of that is probably due to this being my first time.

It says that they are both "epoxy," so I'm not sure what you mean. Are they enamel-based epoxies?

 

[dandan111]

Looks nice,I like the color. I had a slick floor and used the pro on my floor without the grit. It made a big improvement with just the flakes. Know body has slipped since we put the epoxy down.

 

[brandoncolorado]

Looks nice,I like the color. I had a slick floor and used the pro on my floor without the grit. It made a big improvement with just the flakes. Know body has slipped since we put the epoxy down.

Thanks.

Did yours appear fairly uneven as well? There are lots of small ridges/lines throughout the floor. It looked even as I laid it down, so I think it might be the nature of the epoxy.

I'm tempted to add the clear coat today to even it out somewhat.

I also agree with you about the flakes. They do stick out of the ground somewhat, so I imagine that they would add sufficient traction.

 

[dandan111]

Yea, I put mine down heavy and you can tell it in spots. It's been a pretty good coating for me. Had just a few very small places(quarter size) come off.
It's pretty inexpensive compared to some of the other brands. I may recoat part of my floor in another year or so. 1 more coat would really help mine out.

 

[brandoncolorado]

Yea, I put mine down heavy and you can tell it in spots. It's been a pretty good coating for me. Had just a few very small places(quarter size) come off.
It's pretty inexpensive compared to some of the other brands. I may recoat part of my floor in another year or so. 1 more coat would really help mine out.

Can you recoat epoxy on epoxy this long after the fact? The instructions weren't clear.

 

[dandan111]

Yes,You can recoat. Not sure on the recommended process. I don't think it's a big job after you get the first coat with a good bond down.

 

[retfr8flyr]

I don't know about your product but most epoxy's have a 24 hour window for adding another coat. After that amount of time has passed you need to scuff up the first layer with some scotch bright, or 100 grit sandpaper, before you add the topcoat.