Garage Epoxy Questions

[bsmith95610]

Hello,

I am going to be putting down some epoxy in my garage in a couple of weeks and have been reading through the forums. Below is my understanding of what I should do along with a couple questions. Any help or feedback would be much appreciated I am trying to make it looks nice and hopefully last a long time.

My Plan

1. Lay down a square foot of clear plastic on the floor and tape down all of the edges then wait two or three days then pull it up and make sure there is not water.

2. Acid wash the floor with a solution that is 4 parts water to one part acid then rinse with a high-powered washer.

3. Apply Primer with a roller for the base coat.

4. Once the primer has dried apply the epoxy.

5. Spread the flakes evenly.

6. Once the epoxy has dried seal the epoxy with a finish coat.

7. Then let the floor dry for a week before I pull a car onto it.



Questions

1. Does the temperature need to be warm outside before I start the process? If so approximately how warm?

2. After I acid wash the floor do I need to neutralize the surface with a solution that is one part ammonia to ten parts water?

3. Once the epoxy is dried can hot tires on a car really strip it up? If so is there a way to avoid this?

4. I’ve read that you can add slip resistant aggregates to the finish coat to increase traction. Is that something I should do or do most finish coats already have that in them?

5. It seems like certain types of epoxy have different solid percentages on them. Should I be looking for something that says 100% like it does at http://www.epoxy-coat.com/ or should I not be worried about that?

6. Some types of epoxy is water based and some is solvent based. Is one better than the other?

7. Are there any brands of epoxy that anyone would recommend?

Thank you all for taking the time to read through this.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Questions

1. Does the temperature need to be warm outside before I start the process? If so approximately how warm? 50 deg. + for most.

2. After I acid wash the floor do I need to neutralize the surface with a solution that is one part ammonia to ten parts water? We prefer baking soda.

3. Once the epoxy is dried can hot tires on a car really strip it up? If so is there a way to avoid this? Buy good epoxy and get the urethane topcoat

4. I’ve read that you can add slip resistant aggregates to the finish coat to increase traction. Is that something I should do or do most finish coats already have that in them? Personal Preference

5. It seems like certain types of epoxy have different solid percentages on them. Should I be looking for something that says 100% like it does at http://www.epoxy-coat.com/ or should I not be worried about that? Anything over 95% is fine

6. Some types of epoxy is water based and some is solvent based. Is one better than the other? Back to the 95% + solids

7. Are there any brands of epoxy that anyone would recommend?
Legacy Industrial and Epoxy Coat

Thank you all for taking the time to read through this.[/QUOTE]

Our pleasure

 

[rugerlady]

I agree with Scotty at Legacy. If you go with a 100% solids epoxy, you will not have to worry about hot tire pickup and durability.

 

[bsmith95610]

Thank you for your posts I appreciate it. Does anyone else have any tips or brands they have heard work good?

 

[Jagman]

One concern-- I have heard if your concrete floor has been sealed, you need to grind it not just use an acid wash. I would like to hear what LegacyIndustrial and Rugerlady have to say about this as I am also contemplating an epoxy floor. The concrete has not yet been poured. Should I tell the contractor to not seal it if I am going to add epoxy?

 

[bsmith95610]

How do I know if my concrete floor has been sealed? Also would I be able to acid wash the floor this weekend then do the epoxy the following weekend?

 

[regguy1]

I'm happy with the brand I used:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66867

Video of the garage with epoxy:

 

[rugerlady]

If you drop water on your concrete and it beads up, you probably have a sealer on it. If it absorbs into the concrete you do not. I would do this test in a few different areas of the floor. The sealer could just be worn off in the high traffic areas.
If you have a sealer on the floor, I always recommend diamond grinding. you will get the best bond from an epoxy on a clean, unsealed, diamond grinded floor.

 

[bsmith95610]

Hello,

I was just looking at a few brands of epoxy and saw this http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11477439&search=epoxy&topnav=&Mo=0&cm_re=1_en-_-Top_Left_Nav-_-Top_search&lang=en-US&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&N=5000043&whse=BC&Dx=mode%20matchallpartial&Ntk=Text_Search&Dr=P_CatalogName:BC&Ne=4000000&D=epoxy&Ntt=epoxy&No=0&Nty=1&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial#BVRRWidgetID kit. It had good review and is a 100% solids kit that looks like it has everything I need it in. Do any of you have any experience with this brand? If so any comments on whether it is good or bad?

Also my garage is 680 sq ft the kit does 480 sq ft then there is another smaller kit with 240 sq ft. So that would be 720 sq ft. Do you think I should buy those two kits or should I buy two of the 480 sq ft kits just to be safe?

Also since I have expansions joints in my concrete I was thinking about buying http://www.epoxymaster.com/product_info.php/cPath/12/products_id/112 which would fill in the expansion joints so it would look cleaner. Is this what most people that are laying epoxy with expansion joints would do?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Jagman]

Christine,
I will have a new garage built in the next couple of months. I am contemplating using epoxy on the floor. If I ask the contractor to not seal the concrete, should I still grind the floor before applying the epoxy?

John D.

 

[AlphaGarage]

When the concrete contractor finishes the smoothing process often brings up "cream' and other concrete ingredients to the surface. This thin layer can be slick and inhibit coating adhesion; grinding removes it or roughs it up and allows the primer to hook into good, solid, concrete. So yes, even fresh concrete should be profiled by grinding, shot blasting, or a good chem etch.

 

[porphyre]

When the concrete contractor finishes the smoothing process often brings up "cream' and other concrete ingredients to the surface. This thin layer can be slick and inhibit coating adhesion; grinding removes it or roughs it up and allows the primer to hook into good, solid, concrete. So yes, even fresh concrete should be profiled by grinding, shot blasting, or a good chem etch.

I thought you guys recommended a "broom" finish. You know, in cases where the owner was certain, beforehand, that the floor would be epoxy coated. Would you still need to etch or grind a fresh broom finish?

 

[AlphaGarage]

Yes, even with a rough textured finish you should open the pores. Acid works well on a slightly rough finish.

A problem with "light broom finish" is that there's no set definition of what that means, we've had a few cases where the finish ended up pretty rough, not a big deal but it may require extra epoxy. We're just recommending that you specify a finish that's as rough as 1000 grit sandpaper, that's an objective texture.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Geez Alpha, don't you sleep?

 

[rugerlady]

Christine,
I will have a new garage built in the next couple of months. I am contemplating using epoxy on the floor. If I ask the contractor to not seal the concrete, should I still grind the floor before applying the epoxy?

John D.

Yes John, you will still need to profile the concrete. This can be done with a diamond grinder or with acid.

 

[Jagman]

Yes John, you will still need to profile the concrete. This can be done with a diamond grinder or with acid.

Thanks Christine. It seems an acid bath would be easier then a diamond grind. From what I have read, the key to successfully applying epoxy is based on good surface preparation. Does it matter whether I us acid prep or diamond grind on an unsealed surface?

John D.

 

[Cruzin90]

Just my opinion:

Grinding is the preferred method to remove the laitance and create an appropriate surface profile.

However, if you acid etch, be sure to keep the concrete wet while it's working, neutralize the acid, and let the concrete dry before you apply the floor coating.

 

[AlphaGarage]

Yup - A grind is usually the best method.

Muriatic acid works by dissolving and leaching the calcium out of the concrete, effectively opening up millions of voids that act as footholds for the epoxy to lock onto. But the loosened calcium doesn't vaporize, it's held in suspension in the wet water/acid wash, so if the water base is allowed to dry the calcium falls back on the concrete and sticks to it. If you then epoxy without removing that layer of calcium dust the epoxy may not stick to the underlying concrete, but rather to the dust, which will lift off soon, taking the epoxy with it. That's why you want to make sure the water/acid solution remains wet while on the concrete.

When you add water that dilutes the acid, when you pour it out the exposure to air weakens the acid, as it interacts with the calcium the acid is weakened, and when you rinse the acid is further diluted. But even with all that weakening there may be spots where the acid is still "hot" and seep into the microscopic concrete nooks and crannies. That hot acid could potentially weaken the bond between the epoxy and the concrete, so take the extra step of neutralizing the acid wash with a mix of baking soda and water. Just pour it over the entire floor, agitate it with a stiff bristled broom, then rinse with clear running water.

Many coatings do require a completely dry concrete, and just because the concrete is lightened up and looks dry doesn't mean it is dry, so if that's the type of coating you're using wait a few days before coating. But some other coatings can be applied as long as there isn't any standing water and the concrete has just dried enough to lighten up. Check your supplier to find the specific application guidelines for your product.

 

[rugerlady]

Grinding is the preferred method, but the acid wash is completely acceptable. Especially in your case, with new concrete and no contaminants.

 

[Cal Concrete Restoration]

One concern-- I have heard if your concrete floor has been sealed, you need to grind it not just use an acid wash. I would like to hear what LegacyIndustrial and Rugerlady have to say about this as I am also contemplating an epoxy floor. The concrete has not yet been poured. Should I tell the contractor to not seal it if I am going to add epoxy?

Contractors normally do not seal a concrete garage floor but may use a 'curing agent' to slow down the curing of the new concrete. Unfortunately this has the same effect as sealing . . . clogging up the pores of the concrete and substantially inhibiting the adhesion of the epoxy. Tell the contractor to not use a sealer or curing agent if at all possible. You might want him to lightly broom sweep the concrete pour to give it a little extra texture for the epoxy to grab onto.

Don't put the epoxy down until 30 days after the concrete has been poured. Short of that there will still be substantial amounts of water coming up and out of the newly poured slab.

Check out our free report on epoxy floor preparation at www.squidoo.com/epoxyfloorprep.

DO use a high quality epoxy and highly UV resistant sealer, not the $99 hardware store kit. Otherwise you will regret it later.

Best of luck with your project.

Patrick

 

[Cal Concrete Restoration]

Hello,

I was just looking at a few brands of epoxy and saw this http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11477439&search=epoxy&topnav=&Mo=0&cm_re=1_en-_-Top_Left_Nav-_-Top_search&lang=en-US&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&N=5000043&whse=BC&Dx=mode%20matchallpartial&Ntk=Text_Search&Dr=P_CatalogName:BC&Ne=4000000&D=epoxy&Ntt=epoxy&No=0&Nty=1&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial#BVRRWidgetID kit. It had good review and is a 100% solids kit that looks like it has everything I need it in. Do any of you have any experience with this brand? If so any comments on whether it is good or bad?

Also my garage is 680 sq ft the kit does 480 sq ft then there is another smaller kit with 240 sq ft. So that would be 720 sq ft. Do you think I should buy those two kits or should I buy two of the 480 sq ft kits just to be safe?

Also since I have expansions joints in my concrete I was thinking about buying http://www.epoxymaster.com/product_info.php/cPath/12/products_id/112 which would fill in the expansion joints so it would look cleaner. Is this what most people that are laying epoxy with expansion joints would do?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks

You have seen the $99 - a couple hundred dollars epoxy floor coating kits. You are making an investment in your property and should treat it as such.

Look at our free report "The Truth about Epoxy Garage Floors" at www.squidoo.com/epoxygaragefloors. It will explain the performance differences between the inexpensive kits and professional-grade materials.

As professionals, we have use epoxy, sealer and chips from Versatile Building Products in Anaheim, CA for years. Look at www.versatilebuildingproducts.com and www.garagecoatings.com.

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Expansion joints in the concrete: I would HIGHLY recommend that you not fill them in. They are put there to weaken the concrete so that any future cracks will occur down in the joint and not meander across your floor. You could put down an elastic filler in these joints but when the concrete moves it will crack the less elastic epoxy coating.

Patrick