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Garage Essentials for a Newbie Millennial

owenst7

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Joined
Oct 19, 2011
Messages
632
Location
Anchorage/Reno
Okay guys, a lot of great quality responses. Greatly appreciate them all. A few questions:

1) What brand of drill is the best? is 18V sufficient or should I go 20v? What are the rankings of name brand? What's are the top 3 and bottom 3 brands?

2) Y'all said some mentions of a power drill and an impact drill, what are the differences?

3) Is there a difference between a miter saw or table saw? My brother has a large saw that sits and it has a little laser to cut wood and it's pretty handy. It also does 45 degree cuts, is that a miter saw or a table saw? Is there a difference?

Thanks guys. I'll post some pics of the project my step daughter and I will be doing tomorrow (easy DIY mason beehives). Just really basic drilling and 45 degree cuts.

DeWalt's 20v line is 20V fully charged just like any 18V lithium battery. They run at 18V just like everything else. I would say any name brand 18V lithium tool would probably do anything you'll need it to. DeWalt, Makita, and Milwaukee are probably 75% of the market. Ask three people which brand is best and you'll probably get four answers. I'm partial to Makita and Milwaukee because I had a shop burn down from a DeWalt 18V charger and i just watched a brand new 20V DeWalt charger catch on fire that one of our electricians was using, but I also have a lot of Ryobi at home and they've actually had recalls for fires. I don't leave any chargers plugged in unattended anymore. They're all 1000x better than the tools that were available 20 years ago though.

An impact drill, driver, or wrench uses a hammering action to rotate when it meets resistance vs a regular drill which just applies regular old torque. They both have their uses. Many modern drills have a setting that will turn on the impacting feature which is nice for driving long screws in to dimensional lumber. You don't need it if you aren't doing that a lot, but it is a nice feature. Drilling holes with an impact action is likely to break the bit though, so it's not necessarily better, just a different tool for a different job.

A table saw has a circular blade facing up (i.e. don't fall on the table). They are ideal for ripping a length of board down to a narrower width...such as making a 2x6 in to a 2x4, narrowing a sheet of plywood, etc. A miter saw has a circular blade that "chops" down over the table. They are ideal for cutting an angle in to a length of lumber such as making a 45 on the end of a 2x6 for the fascia at the corner of your roof. A circular saw can do anything either of them can with some skill and/or use of a chalk line or straight edge/guide.

You'll probably get the most out of forums if you develop an idea of a specific project, and then make a separate thread with pictures and specific questions on what tools/techniques you'll need.
 
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Parallelism

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DeWalt's 20v line is 20V fully charged just like any 18V lithium battery. They run at 18V just like everything else. I would say any name brand 18V lithium tool would probably do anything you'll need it to. DeWalt, Makita, and Milwaukee are probably 75% of the market. Ask three people which brand is best and you'll probably get four answers. I'm partial to Makita and Milwaukee because I had a shop burn down from a DeWalt 18V charger and i just watched a brand new 20V DeWalt charger catch on fire that one of our electricians was using, but I also have a lot of Ryobi at home and they've actually had recalls for fires. I don't leave any chargers plugged in unattended anymore. They're all 1000x better than the tools that were available 20 years ago though.

An impact drill, driver, or wrench uses a hammering action to rotate when it meets resistance vs a regular drill which just applies regular old torque. They both have their uses. Many modern drills have a setting that will turn on the impacting feature which is nice for driving long screws in to dimensional lumber. You don't need it if you aren't doing that a lot, but it is a nice feature. Drilling holes with an impact action is likely to break the bit though, so it's not necessarily better, just a different tool for a different job.

A table saw has a circular blade facing up (i.e. don't fall on the table). They are ideal for ripping a length of board down to a narrower width...such as making a 2x6 in to a 2x4, narrowing a sheet of plywood, etc. A miter saw has a circular blade that "chops" down over the table. They are ideal for cutting an angle in to a length of lumber such as making a 45 on the end of a 2x6 for the fascia at the corner of your roof. A circular saw can do anything either of them can with some skill and/or use of a chalk line or straight edge/guide.


Perfect response, thank you.

Sounds like I'll be trying out Milwaukee tools as my primary brand. My girlfriend recommends them and I've heard that name a few times kicked around this forum. Never heard about the DeWalt fire issues, but I don't want to play with fire (pun intended).

I think I'll just be needing a regular drill for now. An impact drill sounds like it would be useful for hardest projects. I think I can get by with just a regular torque drill.

It also sounds like I'll be needing a miter saw. They seem safer around kids (myself included) and I'm just looking to cut 2x4's into smaller pieces. Not sure I'm advanced enough yet to make long cuts, I feel like I can buy specific cuts to what I need.

Thanks for the response.

The big question now is, cordless or corded? My girlfriend seems to like cordless, but as long as I have an extension cord, I don't think cordless will bother me that much. When I used a chainsaw one time, I did have to be careful to not cut the cord.
 

555

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Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Messages
2,297
Location
Nomad-Arkansas & Georgia
Everyone has given you good advice. Currently, "The Family Handyman" magazine subscription is $10. Subscribe, IMHO it's the best $10 value in your garage. Buy tools as you build your skills. Start simple, and build slowly. Harbor Freight has both their 4 drawer ($99) and 5 drawers ($159) carts on sale with coupons. Either are decent tool storage solutions. Check the "Hot Deals" section on this site for bargains in your area. Some of us just bought Waterloo chest/carts for less then $50 from Lowes by using information provided by one of our members. It's not as nice as the Harbor Freight boxes, but adequate for most needs. A used file cabinet makes great storage too and there is plenty of information on this site. With a little experience and a lot of imagination you can have a very good setup in no time.
Regards,
John
 

PhantomEB

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Feb 6, 2006
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6,765
Location
Medicine Hat, AB, Canuckistan
Since you like to try wood work before heading into the house, look thru the workbench thread and build something like one of those, preferably with a tool box under it. Nothing better than walking into your shop, clean as your preference deems with some storage. Hope the storage has doors as sawdust seems to find itself everywhere!

Also a clean organized garage keeps the woman off your back, especially when the kid is screaming.,
 

owenst7

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Oct 19, 2011
Messages
632
Location
Anchorage/Reno
Perfect response, thank you.

Sounds like I'll be trying out Milwaukee tools as my primary brand. My girlfriend recommends them and I've heard that name a few times kicked around this forum. Never heard about the DeWalt fire issues, but I don't want to play with fire (pun intended).

I think I'll just be needing a regular drill for now. An impact drill sounds like it would be useful for hardest projects. I think I can get by with just a regular torque drill.

It also sounds like I'll be needing a miter saw. They seem safer around kids (myself included) and I'm just looking to cut 2x4's into smaller pieces. Not sure I'm advanced enough yet to make long cuts, I feel like I can buy specific cuts to what I need.

Thanks for the response.

The big question now is, cordless or corded? My girlfriend seems to like cordless, but as long as I have an extension cord, I don't think cordless will bother me that much. When I used a chainsaw one time, I did have to be careful to not cut the cord.

Milwaukee has marketed the most aggressively during the current generation of cordless tools. DeWalt was the most aggressive during the first generation of 18V tools. That's a big part of why you see certain lines more commonly than others (I was a DeWalt, Milwaukee, and Metabo dealer in college). Like I said, they're all good tools for what they cost. Even Ryobi is a great tool for the money in my opinion.

A miter saw is a pretty expensive, space-consuming, and specific-use tool. I'm not sure what all you have it planned for, but I've done a lot of carpentry without one. I'd personally get a circular saw and another basic tool before I got one. If you're just thinking of one for doing trim work, this is similar to the one I was talking about. I got it years ago for doing quick repair work with fascia and I prefer it to a powered saw for doing small amounts of work. Just make sure you get something big enough to accommodate the wood you're working on.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Stanley-Black-Decker-Deluxe-Mitre-Box-Saw-Set/16913706

Cordless vs corded is largely up to personal preference unless you're doing a lot of metalworking. I only use a corded Skil Mag77 circular saw for framing, but I use the hell out of my cordless circular saw for building shelves and other quick stuff. I have a 10 amp corded drill for drilling holes in winch mounts and suspension brackets, but my little 18V Ryobi drill does 99% of the drilling and driving around my house. Cordless tools are more convenient but they are more expensive and they won't last forever. I've been trying to kill my DeWalt 18V stuff for a little over 10 years though...so it's not like they're going to fall apart.

Electric chainsaws are worthless in my opinion lol. A sawzall or pruner will do everything an electric chainsaw will better and cheaper with less maintenance, and sawzalls are useful for other stuff too.
 
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-Brent-

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Dec 23, 2009
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Location
Utah
Congrats on all the new stuff in your life. I say this wholeheartedly, my wife and two kids are the best parts of my life. Never take them for granted.

As far as the essentials, I think the biggest thing is to study up on any project, first. Know what you're getting into, at least a little, and it will save you some headaches. Do your best to do complete work, and, most importantly, finish everything you start (your girlfriend will appreciate you for it).
 
OP
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Parallelism

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Signature and information post test:

I've called my dad, we're both taking the day off, so we're going to do my first project together, with my stepdaughter. I've already got my plans completed, just need to stop by HD and pick up some wood and nails. He's mainly going to be teaching me about power tools and using attachments.

Edit: still need a picture. I'll work on that.
 
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Crazyjake8493

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Sep 26, 2014
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Location
Upstate NY
Get a subscription to Family Handyman and This Old House. You can also go to the library and get some of the back issues.

Just know that it will take 2-3 times as long as they project in any of the projects.

On a recent podcast, I heard a guy mention the "Rule Of Pi" for home improvement: Every project will take 3.14 times as long as it should take, and will end up costing 3.14 times as much as you thought it would cost. Recently, this has been true for me about 90% of the time.
 

AP2TUDE

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Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
84
Location
Rockwall, TX
I would take advantage of some of the holiday sales, and get a solid foundation of tools for yourself. There are some great tool storage deals right now so you can get a beginner tool box, and try and cover all the basics.

Keep in mind, the most useful tool in your toolbox is the one that you have when you need it. As a homeowner, things pop up all the time, and having the right tool on hand, rather than having to go to the store to get it, is a big deal sometimes.

Because of this, I have tried to scout out good deals on quality tools, and I buy them before I need them. It has worked out well so far, because there are times during a project that you may not know what you need beforehand, and the trial and error approach works well, but only if you have those resources at hand.

Pliers, nice shears, wirecutters, misc screwdrivers, basic sockets, hammer, tape measure, level, cordless light source, markers, pencils, notepad, quart and gallon zip lock bags, rubber gloves, leather gloves, zip ties, crescent wrench, channel locks, a good ladder, and a shop vac. I think that is a great place to start, and those tools will help you finish a myriad of household tasks.
 

ckadams00

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Joined
Sep 12, 2011
Messages
1,273
Location
Seattle, WA
Congrats on all the new things in your life, take time to appreciate them.

When I was in a similar situation and had very few tools this was I found myself needing most:

-Drill/driver combo as others have said. I didn't even know what an impact driver was until I was about 40 and WOW what a difference. A speed square. Get a soup can full of sharpies and carpenter pencils. Get a couple of pairs of work gloves. A decent level. A decent set of screwdrivers.

A good project for you is a basic work bench. Doesn't need to be fancy - I built my first one out of 4x4s and brackets you can get at any HW store. You will find that a bench gets used every day. Put a vise on it - doesn't need to be an expensive one.

What others have said - quality tools are your friend - BUT - you don't need to go out and buy these new. Look at the GJ classifieds, go to garage sales. If you want home-fix-it books to learn you can pick these up cheap at Goodwill.

Lastly, since you are a new homeowner with limited handyman experience, I HIGHLY recommend you go to the bookstore and pick up a basic "new homeowner" book - there are a ton of them and they are great at explaining everything you need to know - HVAC, roofs, gutters, breaker panels, hot water heaters, basic plumbing, etc.

Good Luck To You!
 

DeltaWye

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Joined
Sep 26, 2016
Messages
114
Location
Toronto, Canada
Everyone is going to offer advice based on their own experiences so I'm sure you'll be overwhelmed. It seems like everyone born after 1980 is a "Millennial" so I have no idea whether you're 18 or in your 30s. I'm in my mid-30s and am self-taught in home repair and woodworking for the most part. For me, I don't have the space that most others here do so I have to do things differently. Space to work, space to store tools, space to store materials. It adds up fast. Try to keep things organized so you're not spending ages looking for tools and material or the enjoyment factor will go way down. I like drawers with labels on the front for storage, to begin with I grabbed dressers that the neighbours were throwing out. If you make your own storage later on, back to the curb they can go. Just be careful doing that nowadays because of bedbugs.

My #1 suggestion to a beginner would be not to get caught up in buying gimmicky tools, especially those '10 tools in 1' things that people love to buy for you instead of giving you gift cards to buy stuff that you actually need, not to buy fancy jigs that you can make yourself (more a woodworking thing) and not to spend a fortune on tools only to find out you'd rather be doing something else than working on the house all weekend and the tools are just gathering dust. You'll need some basic tools for house maintenance, start with those. I do buy good quality hand tools and be warned, a dull chisel or worn out screwdriver will injure you just as fast as a power tool, make no mistake. If you don't have someone to show you how, you're bound to injure yourself as you learn.

My #2 suggestion is that if you are a bit of a perfectionist like I am, don't be. Get it finished and put it to use, warts and all. You can spend a little time fixing blemishes which is a useful skill all on it's own, but don't obsess over them. If the flaws bother you enough, you can make a better one in the future (you won't) when you have time (you won't). For the very rare instances where you do, you'll still have benefited from making the first one because you'll have an idea what to do differently for the second one.

Speaking to my own experiences, the only corded portable tools I use on a semi-regular basis these days are the Sawzall and Rotary Hammer SDS drill for any concrete. I don't like the hammer function on the cordless drill unless it's a small hole in soft brick. Cordless for me for everything else including the circular saw. I have both Makita Li-Ion 14.4 volt (drill and impact driver, voltage now mostly obsolete) which I use in the house and workshop and they are my best tool purchases ever (still using the original batteries 8 or 9 years later and they have had a lot of use) and the old DeWalt 18 volt NiCad which I use outside, for grinding metal and under the car. I have quite a few DeWalt 18 volt tools that I rather like but the old Ni-Cad batteries ****. I was down to my last one so I recently bought some backwards-compatible Li-Ion batteries with a new charger on ebay. Does anyone still sell cordless tools that aren't Li-Ion? If so, stay far away from them!

I *love* the portable hangable fluorescent lights for both the Makita and DeWalt, they are invaluable to me. Either brand goes for hours and hours and hours. Wonderful under the car or when I have to shut the electrical panel off.

So yeah, I'm going to say go cordless. The other nice thing about them is that they stop as soon as you let off the trigger. Much safer, especially if you don't have someone to show you how to use the tool. Circular saw kickback will happen as you learn and it can be nasty and you won't forget the first time a drill "grabs" and smashes your fingers and/or tries to knock you right off a ladder. You still have to be careful with cordless since they're very powerful these days, but they are more forgiving in terms of injuries IMO.

I don't even use my (cheap but gets the job done) compound miter saw all that much unless I have a lot of pieces to cut, I use my cordless Dewalt circular saw and Speed Square much more often but I'm not framing whole buildings here. I think I use the miter saw to cut ABS pipe more than wood these days and I don't do that much plumbing. If I had the space to set up a dedicated cutting station for the miter saw? I'd use the space for more support to the left of the blade on the table saw. To cut plywood, I use the circ saw with a 4' level and a couple of clamps, set up on sawhorses and a sacrificial piece of OSB or ply. I love cutting outside and not having to deal with the dust. Check out Mattias Wandel's sawhorse video on Youtube:


He also has a simple workbench he makes. Your first workbench should be simple because you need one right away, and you'll need one to make a fancy workbench in the future, if you ever decide to.

Also agree with one of the other guys in this thread about keeping several smaller tape measures around. Keep one in the car too. Oh, and that's another thing I like about the cordless circ saw, I can cut lumber down in the parking lot if need be.

You can rent expensive, specialized tools that you'll only use once. Or buy them used and sell them for about what you paid for them.

Safety glasses. I hate getting s___ in my eyes and debris will fly past 5 other people to lodge in my eyes. I keep pairs of them all over the place. I use goggles over them when grinding metal. A respirator for dust and cartridges for nasty chemicals. A pain to wear but it beats coughing up black stuff.
 
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tthornto

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Joined
Mar 11, 2011
Messages
743
Pack-and-play for the infant, and ear protection for self and infant. You want to get stuff done in the garage? That involves power tools, and keeping momentum going, you gotta have the kid in the garage at some point.

Totally agree, as the kids got older I also added a bag of 100 ball pit type balls and turned the pack and play into a ball pit, then setup a Playskool plastic basketball hoop right next to it. That kept both of my kids (at the time 3YO girl and 1YO Boy) busy, and made the older neighbor kids want to play too. With the neighbor kids playing with and helping to watch my kids I was actually able to get stuff done.

Sometimes the most important tool to have is a free babysitter,
 

mburrus

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Nov 15, 2014
Messages
235
Location
Miami, Fl
i will throw my recommendation in for milewaukee 18v lithium ion tools. get a combo set with a hammer drill and 1/4" impact... kits should be on sale at home depot during the holidays... i bought my set in 2011... still using the original batteries, though they have lost some life, but i had to replace the impact due to the trigger failing... this was after 5 years of hard use in remodeling my house, and building my shop... ran a lot of tapcons with that impact... make sure to get an assortment of metal/wood bits, concrete bits, and screwdriver tips. one of the main reasons i like milwaukee is that they have just about every tool imaginable in their m18 battery system... so as you expand and need different tools, your existing batteries will just slide right on to them... always better to maintain a stock of one type of battery for as many tools as possible. they also have different capacities readily available, and home depot stocks a fairly complete line of their cordless stuff.

youre going to need some hand tools... i would get a screw driver assortment, allen keys, a small socket/wrench set... dont forget to get standard as well as metric. some pliers, wire strippers... and even a cheapey volt meter. you can go cheap on the hand tools, harbor freight should be fine, and upgrade as needed...
 
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Parallelism

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Nov 20, 2016
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Location
Portland, Oregon
Just built a little bee house for mason bees today. My stepdaughter (7 yrs old) helped a little bit.

Going to make a list because I could write a book about today.

-Used a Makita corded drill. Absolutely loved it. My dad has had it for ~20 years. Started to hurt my hands after about 10 holes drilled, but other than that, loved it. I think I'm going to stick with Makita tools (I assume more recent models are a bit lighter).

-My finished product isn't too bad. The hardest part was drilling 2" screws to become flush with a 45 degree roof. A lot of my screws aren't smooth if you run your hand over the roof.

-Sawdust was everywhere (worked in my dads massive 3 story garage). Clean up wasn't that bad, though.

-My "workbench" was a rolling computer desk, so when I drilled holes, I had to balance on one foot holding the desk from sliding and the other foot to stabilize myself on the ground. Learned the true power of having a large, sturdy workbench.


I did have a question: What is the best bang-for-buck black Friday sale for tools? My girlfriend has told me that some family members "may" be buying me tools for Xmas, so I've been told to not spend a lot of money on tools. Is there a tool that's a must buy for black Friday? Are tool chests/boxes inexpensive? Also, what are good tool box companies?

Within the upcoming days I will be: Closing on the house, buying a 'home owner book' and watching some videos of This Old House.

Next project will be a workbench.

I'm 27 years old, for the person who asked that.
I'll post pictures of my completed project soon (I'm sure it will draw a few good laughs, lol). I don't have a smartphone, so trying to take pictures is a real pain.

Love the replies guys, thank you. I'm aware I'm not responding to all posts, I'm just trying to address them all in my responses using the highlights or most discussed topics/opinions. (Still unsure if I want to go cord or cordless rout)
 
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Oceandweller

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Jun 26, 2012
Messages
47
Location
Orange Beach
Makita makes a good corded planer vs buying a large wood planer. Stick with milwaukee for just about everything corded but its getting harder to find as word has gotten out. I have an old milwaukee sawzal that is 30 years old ish "about as old as me" and it will outperform anything form lowes or HD new.

I went with all milwaukee. They have a good hand router you can get used on ebay four about 80$. You can get a cheap router bit case off ebay for less than 50 with about 30 of the most common bits "very worth it". Look for scrap wood when your driving around, its amazing how many real oak dressers, copper wire, maple, etc I have pulled out of other peoples trash just while driving to and from over the years.

Start small on your garden, soil quality goes a long way to farming. I farm, follow the local planting dates for your area. Save your seeds and dry them out on a paper plate, then label them into jewelry bags you can get off ebay "like 1,000 for 10$" righting the plant type and date. Save in the fridge for 5-10 years in general or 20 years in the freezer. There is a guy in Oregon on eBay that makes custom axes, its bnbsparents is his handle. Makes some really nice stuff
http://www.ebay.com/sch/bnbsparents/m.html?ssPageName=STRK:MEFSXS:MESOI&_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2654

hmmm buy bits and stuff in bulk from estate sales or ebay, in fact look at buying old welders, drill presses, dust collection, etc from garage or estate sales. Also check craigslist. I just got a full size dust collector in pretty darn good condition for 80$ on CL. 1/2 size new on rockler is 350.... so it won't hurt having a dedicated one for the chop saw. Figure out what you use the most and start there, what tools will you use the most? I just got a new house with 3 car garage that had wood paneling that you could punch through with a finger. I just finished putting all the sheet rock up and doing the ceiling, a pain considering I did most of it alone. It would have been much harder with an 18volt heavy drill vs my M12 Milwaukee fuel driver and impact driver. Heck the screws were drilled in one and a half seconds and in with the impact. I really respect what you have said, I grew up the exact opposite but it is good to see your honest with it. I honestly feel closer to 90 than 35 and don't feel akin at all to our generation. Milwaukee makes a hell of a tool box right now at Home depot for 500 with easy close slides, heavy steel, powder coat, hydroaulic hinges, and 6 plug strip built in "much better than Harbor freigh or sears craftsman". In fact home depot used to be off my list and I didn't use big box stores for a good while, but HD started carrying Milwaukee and american made channel lock pliers. There husky stuff is cheap but I imagine a ton better than harbor freight. I have a couple of good husky items, like an expandable razor that have lasted years. Sears has the best deal on saw blades for the price. I picked up two all purpose blade packs for 25$ a piece, that is 12.50 a saw blade for a decent blade. Is it a forest blade no, does it cut about as good yes... not to mention it makes my **** ryobi table saw pretty smooth.

I will contradict deltawayne above me heavily with the cord vs cordless. I have an entire bosch 18v cordless set that is practically useless due to use and battery drainage. For a 50$ battery I can get a corded sawzall and drill that will last 50 years used at an estate/garage sale... then they are always switching batteries from NiCAd to Lithium, who knows in 10 years, will you be able to get matching batteries in 20 years? Like I said 1/2 of my tools are 40+ years old and some of the best ones 'vises, press, c clamps, levels, etc are closer to 100 years old".
 

Oceandweller

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Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
47
Location
Orange Beach
Best of luck on the workbench. I am doing one as well after doing a cheap 20$ 2x6x 10foot workbench that has held up quite a few years.

Going with old maple 4x4 for the legs, all maple 2x4 top, heavy steel brackets, as I have those already for free, and two cypress 2x6x12's I will use for the sides. My advice would be pick up a good woodworkers clamp for the end. I have a clamp table I am considering adding 3-5 vises to below the main table that I can roll out as I like working with stuff in vises at waist level vs 5 feet high and right in my face. I have yet to find some cheap casters that are good that lock, but harbor freight sells casters for cheap if your on a budget for your bench. Don't sweat it if your first attempt doesn't come out good, there are a ton of online workbench spreadsheets "I have considered 100's" and figure when it doubt go with hard wood that is the longest lasting vs cheap grade pine "especially in your area yall have so much quality hardwood I am jealous". Happy thanksgiving!
 

Rickster

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Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Messages
6,218
Location
SE PA
My 2 cents worth....

Power sliding miter saw, the 12" one its too big, get the Craftsman 7 1/4" model, reasonably priced and very useful.

Battery operated power nailer for finished nails.

cordless drill-driver is a must have, along with a cordless drill.

small set of wood chisels, 12ft and 25 ft tape measure, some better quality screwdrivers like a company's "Pro" version and a couple of cheap flat blade screwdrivers to use on not-screws so you don't mess up your good screwdrivers. A quality claw hammer - at least one that costs more than $10. Pair of channel lock pliers 10 or 12 inch. one of those 6" levels. Get a small set of Craftsman combination wrenches in sae and metric and a couple of those hex head multi tools in sae & metric also.

Are you going to do any painting? get one of those adjustable painting polls like 2' to 4'. Stay away from those painting supply "Kits", instead get a nice quality roller. couple of angled cut brushes, package of roller covers and one of those thin rollers with covers for hard to get-at areas. Lowes has this deeper red painting tray, get a bunch of inserts. Also get the gray painting cup with the inserts and the magnetic brush holder. a 12" drywall blade to use as a painting edge guide. Don't forget a ladder - get a newer one with the full deeper plastic steps 5 or 6ft. you'll need a drywall hand sander with a package of sanding screens, get the coarse screens - as they wear they become finer.
 

1938flatty

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Joined
Feb 18, 2012
Messages
73
Location
Michigan
I will keep this short and simple.

I have been working on my first home for 20 years. I wish I would have bought quality tools and equipment the first time. They will cost more up front but some of this stuff you will have for a long time. :thumbup:
 

gda659

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 19, 2011
Messages
101
Location
in the forest
Have fun doing and learning! Do it safely. Don't settle for low quality tools.
I'll second all of Rickster's advice above and add some specifics from my experience.
Safety glasses-get several pair
Ear protection (not mentioned enough)
Cordless tools benefit from all the development because they are convenient to use and manufacturers can sell them over and over again as battery life is engineered obsolescence. If they are used a lot, they save time and money. Otherwise, you'll be replacing them before they wear out because the batteries have gone to ****. The only tools I use enough to warrant cordless are the drill/driver and 1/4" impact driver (best invention for driving screws-ever).
Other tools I use a lot:
For a corded saw, consider the Rockwell 4 1/2" compact circular saw. Setup is fast and easy with their saw guide (sold separately). It'll cut through 2x lumber and it makes cutting sheet goods down to size a snap. Buy direct from Rockwell online.
You can get a decent SAE/Metric socket set for cheap during the holidays
Combination wrench set, ratcheting if you'd like
Now is the time to get a set of drill bits and impact driver bit sets at the big box stores
Basic set of quality screwdrivers
Speedsquare
Tape measure
Estwing steel 16oz hammer
Low angle block plane. I use it a lot when working with wood (get a good one, Veritas, Lie-Nielsen, Stanley Sweetheart or equivalent) It'll last a lifetime.
A set of chisels is a good thing to have, keep them sharp with sandpaper on top of plate glass/granite. I have one set aside for abuse. The rest I only use by hand.
Stanley Wonder Bar (make sure the nail pull slots are machined well)
5-in-1 tool (or 7-in-1) in the paint prep department
Good paint brushes-clean them well
Don't buy a flimsy ladder. Avoid anything that's only rated for 200 lbs, even if anyone who uses it is a light weight. They are dangerous, rickety, wastes of resources.

Keep doing. You'll figure it out. Come here for help.
 
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Parallelism

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Nov 20, 2016
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Here is the finished bee house. The screws on the roof and the screws drilled partially in the wood in the back is comical. I had fun, and it wasn't THAT bad of a first project, haha.









 

LS6 Tommy

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Dec 27, 2013
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Location
Northern NJ
You'll be fine.

Don't rush into buying tools, but acquire as you need them.
Experience is good, don't get frustrated when a project doesn't go as planned.


X2. I'm not overly brand specific. Whenever I am contemplating a new tool, I research the daylights out of it and get the one that seems to meet my needs and have the best reputation. I also overbuy a little bit. No point in buying a cheapo tool because you're not sure how much you will use it, then use it much more than you thought you would and have to replace it because it was, well, cheap. Buy good, buy once, cry once.

Experience is what you get when you were expecting something else.
"Live and learn" has it's merits. Many times you come away with a better understanding of the subject if you have to do it more than once.

Tommy
 

ccoffing

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Nov 18, 2012
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Great thread, and great responses.

Hi Parallelism, not sure if you're a video game player or writer. I write software, but I grew up on a farm, so I've been turning bolts for 40ish years now. The briefest-hopefully-relevant summary of what I've learned:

Protect your eyes and hearing. I have had to have rusted metal shavings "buffed" out of my cornea, and have taken a rock to the eye when weed-wacking, and have left my ears ringing after draining water from my air compressor. Have eye and ear protection handy, and use it as standard practice. $20 for a comfortable pair of glasses (wife bought mine off Amazon) is cheap compared to what damage you can do to yourself in an instant. Keep the $4 ear protectors from HF handy. I have had wires let loose from a high-speed wire wheel and embed in my arm. Glad that wasn't my eye. Mistakes add up, and the years are not forgiving.

I am partial to corded Milwaukee drills. I have repeatedly burnt up some other brands, and I hate waiting on batteries. I don't know if current Milwaukee is like 10-20 years ago. I can hope.

I redid the trim in my first house, but looking back, I did a **** job. Get a pneumatic nailer, instead of hand-nailing. It will hold better, and crack the trim less. After I realized what a piss-poor job I was doing, I bought a Porter-Cable pancake compressor and 3 nailers (was a kit from a big-box store). Probably other options now, but the point is, if you're doing trim, you NEED a pneumatic nailer.

And finally, get organized and stay organized. Whatever that means for you, do it. I have kids... so... time... slows... down. So many distractions. If I get disorganized, months and years slip away because there is always something more pressing to do. Build a workbench, get a toolchest, whatever. But organize.
 

bdbecker

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I really like the design of that bee house! You'll get better at the execution as you keep doing projects like this. It sounds like you have the right attitude and that is the most important thing when you are learning.

EDIT:
Looking back at your pics, I sure hope you were barefoot for the "after" pics and weren't working without shoes on. Even a 1' long chunk of 2x4 can really hurt if it hits your foot at the right angle, not to mention the hazard from stepping on a dropped screw or scrap wood.
 
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isuhunter

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532
So the first essentials:

Beer fridge (I'm talking Bud, Coors, Miller, etc. None of this hipster microbrew stuff)

Manly shyt to hang on the walls

Next up:

Work bench

Toolbox

You'll figure out the rest as you go.

Agree with much of the stuff above. racinfarmer has pointed out some of the essentials

Decorations are key - talk to grocery stores they will give you their promotional things

Workbench - great time to learn about saws and drills

Buy an 18V Lithium Ion drill. RYOBI is great for beginners and some great deals can be found at home depot during the holidays.

Find a cheap mitre saw on craigslist and you'll be set for building your own bench and trim work.
 

stang2007

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Sep 20, 2013
Messages
161
Location
Lincoln CA
ill through my 2 cents in as well...

1) Buy Quality tools that fit in your budget

If buying at Harbor freight try to buy the Taiwanese version of the tool its usually more expensive but worth it.

a good cordless drill/driver HD has a some good deals on Ryobi this time of the year, my Brother in law has several Ryobi tools and they work well for him on his budget.

2) Think about Organization now. You stated there are already Cabinets, Think about how to best utilize them for your needs,

IE, mostly working on the home you will want a nice tool box to put your most commonly used tools, IE hammer, screwdriver, ETC.
And probably some cases to keep specialized stuff. like a separate box for plumbing ****.

if working mostly on automotive, getting a Kit that comes in a case or several kits with cases will help keep things organized. (before you break down and Buy a tool chest)
 

becker_atc

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Jun 20, 2013
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Grady Co., OK
Multiple tape measures like 4 of them. I can never find one when I need it and tripping over them when I don't. Unless doing real precise worki have them scattered throughout the job. I hate it when walk from the front to the back yard to make a cut or something and missing my tape.


Sent via message in a bottle
 

RoyBell

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Oct 11, 2015
Messages
362
Location
Chicago
As others have said, you can make do with the following for quite some time

1) Miter saw. Get a sliding one. They are expensive but worth it once you start cutting wood over 4" at angles.

2) Li Ion kit. Makita set is cheap, I think $150 right now at home depot. I have many years of abuse out of mine.

3) Nail gun kit. I got the popular Bostich kit about 8 years ago. 16/18ga (mine came with stapler that gets little use) and compressor.

These 3 tools will get you so far that you won't need much else for years.
 

NorCA

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Nov 10, 2014
Messages
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I got one- When I first started acquiring tools I was convinced fancy new tools in the home improvement stores was what I needed. While this is certainly true for some things (namely lithium ion drills and battery tools), it definitely doesn't hold for all.

Over time I have found myself hunting/searching for old quality items discarded by many as simply "old" or replaced with new plastic equivalents.

In my mind its hard to beat some of the old table saws, and other motor driven tools floating around yard sales/craigslist. Dont blindly discount tools in the used market just because they have some rust and a couple miles on them.

To me that often means they were built to a higher standard to begin with... Have fun!
 

NorCA

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Nov 10, 2014
Messages
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Used file cabinets make a pretty good first tool chest too for $20 or less.
 

jd_1138

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May 8, 2013
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Used file cabinets make a pretty good first tool chest too for $20 or less.

For hand tools? Seems like the tools would be all smashed together because file drawers are so tall. A file cabinet would be good for bulkier/larger stuff like extensions cords, frame stands, etc..

Tool chests can be bought pretty cheap used off CL/Offer Up for a roller bottom cabinet and then you can later add a top box/portable box. Or the 4 or 5 drawer HF rolling carts would also be a good option and are $99 with coupon.

Nice to have a box, so you can lay out the tools in order of size to find them easier.
 

becker_atc

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Jun 20, 2013
Messages
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Location
Grady Co., OK
As for a tool box until I had a garage almost all my hand tools (wrenches, screwdriver, sockets, ect) fit in a single 21" craftsman portable box. It was full in the end but was organized.

Had some other odds and end like a drill and bits some saws (hand saws) in a closet in my apartment.

I like the small portable boxes can even get a couple for different types of tools. I did for specialized, overflow and on the road tools.


Sent via message in a bottle
 

southalabama

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Messages
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Location
Brewton AL
You enjoy YouTube channels check out Tested.
Adam Savage one of the main contributors. Search for the tour of his shop. In particular look at what he calls the first order of retrievability. This is his way of saying for bench top stuff like pliers he shouldn't have to move **** to get to it. He wants a particular pair of pliers he should be able to grab that pair.
 

99LeCouch

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Apr 18, 2011
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Rochester, NY
I bought my house right before I turned 30. Unlike you, I had a fair number of car-related tools. Those translated pretty well into housework and project tools. Other stuff I got as it was necessary for projects.

For cordless tools, comfort and ease of use go a long ways. The 18v monster might collect dust if it's heavy and bulky, while a lighter 12v tool might become a go-to. For most things, a 12v li-ion will cover it.
 

Riperoo

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Jan 6, 2015
Messages
46
so much good advise, and I am probably repeating something that someone already said, I didn't go through every post, but, I will throw my 2 cents, get a good quality cordless drill and a decent compound miter saw. You will have them for years, and a cordless drill is basically my right hand on 90% of the jobs around the house. Keep your eye on facebook yardsale and craigs list for tools. Books, look on amazon for books on organizing a small garage, and family handyman magazine!!! Family handyman is probably the best publication out there for someone starting out. I cant tell you all the hints I got out of it. Keep in mind, a 2 car garage might seem big, but man, they fill up quick. Creative storage and resist the urge to be a hoarder!!!! Utilize every square inch efficiently. Your gonna make mistakes, don't be afraid to admit it and know when to throw in the towel.
 
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Riperoo

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Jan 6, 2015
Messages
46
Oh man, another thing I thought of that was indispensable when I started out, Quick clamps, as many as you can get your hands on and in as many lengths. And keep your eyes out for a good vise. Probably the one thing I would suggest buying from harbor frieght or something TEMPORARILY till you save up some bucks for a quality one. And I mean temporarily, the difference between a good vice and a cheap vice is huge!!! but a quality vice is a major investment, having a cheapy for starting out, sharpening lawn mower blades, holding a pipe while you cut it, basically an extra set of hands is something that you will come to appreciate. If you can bite the bullet now and get a good one then by all means do. Watch the sales for the quick clamps, they seem to hit the clearance section pretty regularly at home depot by me, and they seem to be a pretty popular garage sale
find.
 

bulletpruf

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Nov 28, 2013
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10,978
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San Antonio
All good advice, but let me offer something a bit different.

1. Don't get a finish nail gun or compressor to run it. You will learn more from the start with a good hammer and nail set, and these will be much more versatile. I've built tons of things, from a small barn to furniture, and don't own a compressor or nail gun (yes, I've used them on some jobs).
2. A good hammer. Actually, get two. Small and large. Get an all-steel hammer (e.g., Estwing), because you will eventually use/misuse it to bang the **** out of stuff. The steel hammer will survive and you will pass it down to your kids.
3. From a power tool standpoint, and knowing what you may be doing, get, in order, a power miter box, cordless 14V or 18V combo drill/driver/reciprocating saw set, and last, a corded circular saw. The circular saw has cut off more fingers and damaged more limbs than just about any tool, so teach yourself how to use it.
4. As mentioned, you will buy tools as you need them, but you will need right from the start a good pliers set (standard, needle-nose), Channel-lock pliers, at least 2 slotted screwdrivers, 2 Phillips screwdrivers, 16' tape measure (go cheap, you will eventually lose it!), a combination square or speed square (look them up), and at least a 3' level. In the old days a good cross-cut handsaw was vital, but my go-to saw is now a Japanese 2-sided pull saw. Get one.

^^^This.
 
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