Garage exhaust evacuation system

[Improved700]

I searched this section, with not much luck. Looking for a easy/cheap way to evacuate engine exhaust in my shop. I spend alot of time in the winter working on snowmobiles and atv's so the shop can get really bad with two-stroke smoke and fumes. Currently I open the windows on both side of shop, put a big fan in one window, and try to **** out all the fumes, but with 12 foot ceilings it seems to hang pretty good, plus I am loosing all my heat in the process.

I know there are the crushproof type hoses' but I am wondering if I would need some sort of inline blower assist to get the smoke out fast enough. As some of you know, when you fire up a triple cylinder two stroke snowmobile engine, it can produce a ton of smoke and fumes.

I guess I could try to hoses with out any assist, and run them out through the wall, and add some sort of assist if needed.

Anyone have such a system, or thoughts?
Thanks alot
Kev

 

[RbrtAWhyt]

Contact these folks...

http://www.crushproof-hose.com/?gclid=CNT29_HHs6YCFZJa2godT1kfAg

http://www.fumeavent.com/

 

[mrb]

here's the stuff. get a CO alarm.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/c-139-garage-exhaust-hose.aspx

 

[Improved700]

Thanks guys. Yep, I have looked at those systems. I'm wondering if anyone has something like this in their own shop, and did not re-mortgage the farm to put one in. I'm looking more in blower information. If one is needed, or if the exhaust would make it out of the building on it's own.

Keep the ideas comming!!!
Kev

 

[nissan_crawler]

I'm in the process of building one using a dust collector fan. It's ducted through a regular 4" vent pipe out the roof. I'm going to spend the coin, and buy the actual vehicle exhaust hoses, which is the big expense.

Oh, and get some real oil in them so they don't smoke like a damn chimney. Anybody that rode with our group that didn't have smokeless oil, had to ride at the back of the pack at all times.

 

[justin85]

Here is what we use in the "garage" at work:

http://www.plymovent.com/

 

[daveroy]

could you use a bilge fan from a boat! (I know its gas-fume safe!)

 

[Tantara]

I love the smell of 2 stroke in the morning. In the summer I start my sleds just to smell it.

I do undersatnd the safety aspect I try to limit the run time inside my garage.

Brad

 

[Relie]

I installed a whole house fan in the ceiling of my garage. It was in a hallway in my house before we went central air. It is 2 foot sq. and installs right over the ceiling joists. Works like a charm to evaquate bad air from the garage. (I don't have any windows). Also works well to get hot air out in the summer.
Cost originally, little over $100.

Dave

 

[TN_GARAGE]

could you use a bilge fan from a boat! (I know its gas-fume safe!)

Sorta my thoughts, too (meets the criteria of cheap and easy)

Those rooftop attic fans aren't too difficult, either. Only problem is they remove the fumes after they're already in the shop. A pipe on the muffler with a bilge fan would help keep the fumes from ever filling up the garage.

 

[ratdoggy]

What about those power assist blowers for a furnace? I think they fit regular flue pipe and probably plug into an outlet. I'm not looking at the one I have on my hot water heater,but I think it would work.

 

[Improved700]

I do have a little blower motor/fan from a pellet stove that I could put inline with the hode and see if that would work. The attic fan would be great, but I have a ceiling and and attic above that, so I would have to figure out a way to get it out of the attic and building.

Just thinking that I might need some serious cfm's to avoid overtaking the exhaust hose, but I have not tried yet, so cannot comment on it.

I would need around 16-18 feet of the hose to get out of the shop, which would put the crushproof hose at around 180 buck or so for 20 feet. Then the door trap to go with it. So I would be around 200 bucks or so.

The crushproof stuff is nice, but spendy.

 

[sledzz]

This is what I made years ago to vent my sleds. Using it for my Z in this picture. Used a squirrel cage fan and made an exhaust and intake port to fit the flexable hose. The intake is regular aluminum duct and is easy to bend up to the bottom of a sleds exhaust. The output is dryer vent. I put a switch on it and it has worked great for at least 15 years...

 

[6768rogues]

I was going to buy a vehicle exhaust hose a few years ago and was surprised by the price. A few days later I found a nice one along the road. Lucky day!

 

[Zeke]

The shorter the length of the system the more efficient. And using shorter crush proof as opposed to metal duct will increase efficiency. Increased efficiency means less booster fan.

There is the matter of make up air, but unless your shop is really well insulated and sealed, I wouldn't bother. You're still going to lose some heat, but the engines may create some of their own.

 

[birdman1]

At auto mech. school. we used the metal flex hose with no fan. the exhaust pressure was sufficient to push the fumes through the pipe. I can't tell you about what snowmobiles would need. but I think the inline blower is a sure cure. Don't see too many snowmobiles around this part of N.Carolina. we play golf all winter.

 

[Improved700]

Thanks everyone for the ideas. I am closing to finishing up a couple machines for customers by week's end, so this will be my weekend project. Unless we get more snow to ride!!!

Kev

 

[TN_GARAGE]

unless your shop is really well insulated and sealed, I wouldn't bother. You're still going to lose some heat, but the engines may create some of their own.

I also wonder if it might be best to put the exit hole a little higher than the tailpipes? Guess my thought is the hot exhaust would evacuate a little easier. Any thoughts???

 

[steve911]

This is what I made years ago to vent my sleds. Using it for my Z in this picture. Used a squirrel cage fan and made an exhaust and intake port to fit the flexable hose. The intake is regular aluminum duct and is easy to bend up to the bottom of a sleds exhaust. The output is dryer vent. I put a switch on it and it has worked great for at least 15 years...

Where did you get the outlet that you have in your garage door? I have a diesel Bobcat that is parked up against the rear door of my shed. I dont open the rear door in the winter due to large accumulation of drifting snow.

When I start it up to drive it out the front door it belches black smoke for a couple of seconds and I hate the smell. I am planning to simply put a hose over the muffler pipe and connect it to the wall fitting in the door, start the machine let it run for a minute and drive it out. Problem solved.

I just don't know where those cast fittings that most of the older shops had in their garage doors at the time can be found.

 

[Improved700]

looks like the port from this place...
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/c-139-garage-exhaust-hose.aspx

I'm going to work on this project over the weekend. Hopefully if all goes well, I'll post some pics of the finished product.
Kev

 

[scott37300]

I don't know if this would work or not but corrugated drainage pipe might something to look into, home depot sells it for like 5 bucks a 10' section, just make sure you get the solid one without drain holes! Not sure if the exhaust would melt it or not. Maybe use some metal flex suto exhaust pipe for the first few feet and then the plastic? Just throwing ideas out. Let us know what you use and how it works out, I would like to do this someday.

 

[ultgar]

 

[m.james]

In addition I would get an alarm that sense co level.

 

[vettesplus]

this is what i use... it works great, just have to have a door open...

 

[ultgar]

For big open garages, especially those attached to the house, a big exhaust fan like this is the way to go. Multi-stage ventilation works best....either 2 different fans that can be powered on individually or a single fan with speed control. This way you can choose as much ventilation as needed.....5000 cfm to 50000 cfm (or more). SD

 

[TN_GARAGE]

Looking for a easy/cheap way to evacuate engine exhaust in my shop. I spend alot of time in the winter working on snowmobiles and atv's so the shop I am loosing all my heat in the process.
Kev

this is what i use... it works great, just have to have a door open...

For big open garages, especially those attached to the house, a big exhaust fan like this is the way to go. Multi-stage ventilation works best....either 2 different fans that can be powered on individually or a single fan with speed control. This way you can choose as much ventilation as needed.....5000 cfm to 50000 cfm (or more). SD

Nice setup, but I think he's looking for something that allows him to keep his door & window shut so he can retain heat.

 

[sledzz]

Where did you get the outlet that you have in your garage door? I have a diesel Bobcat that is parked up against the rear door of my shed. I dont open the rear door in the winter due to large accumulation of drifting snow.

When I start it up to drive it out the front door it belches black smoke for a couple of seconds and I hate the smell. I am planning to simply put a hose over the muffler pipe and connect it to the wall fitting in the door, start the machine let it run for a minute and drive it out. Problem solved.

I just don't know where those cast fittings that most of the older shops had in their garage doors at the time can be found.

I had it put in when I had the door installed. It's a Raynor door so bet you could get one from a Raynor install company.

 

[sledzz]

I have a tall ceiling so the smoke and odor would always linger wether it was my car and especially my sleds. So getting it directly out is great because you can tune it in comfort and not worry about breathing it in. I had to rig up a blower to get the sled exhaust out.

 

[e-tek]

sledzz has the best idea - perfect setup.

I have a powerful wall fan and the issue in the winter (because I need to open a window) is it cools the shop down - FAST!

So I made a paint fume hood box...

.....and an exhaust box for my engine test stand..

And I'm gonna put a stove hood over my welding table.....some day!