garage extension

[4theDogs]

My current garage is 24 wide by 30 deep. As you can see in the picture the right side drops and that is where I would like to add a 16 wide addition and starting at back 20 deep. so it would sit back from the original front. I am trying to keep the same roof line and use the space for my lawn and garden tools and tractor. I am thinking that i could get to about 16 ft and still have an 8ft height.

My biggest concern is how to support the side floor where i would have dug to have the addition level.

 

[CraigStu]

I think that depends on the existing foundation. If you can do what you want w/o digging lower than the existing footer you will be fine.

 

[coljar]

To have an 8ft. height at the end, that roof would have to go almost flat, and that won't look good. You'd probably have to dig down to put the extension for a correct roof line.

 

[4theDogs]

I think the original foundation is just a 3-4 inch pour. It looks like a simple pole barn type walls inside. That is where i am having issues of thinking of how to support the wall.

My hope is to go 16' out but realistically 12 ' would keep the roof line and give me 8' on the inside.

 

[firebirdparts]

Always a problem undermining an existing foundation, whatever it is. The short answer is you can't.

 

[nadogail]

This sounds like an engineering problem that is beyond my ability to intelligently constructively comment on.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd skip trying to match up the roof lines. Id turn the trusses 90° and make the ridge lines match.

 

[manwithtools]

I'd skip trying to match up the roof lines. Id turn the trusses 90° and make the ridge lines match.

This is the correct answer....

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd skip trying to match up the roof lines. Id turn the trusses 90° and make the ridge lines match.

Sorry, I wanted to add more but the wife brought me a plate of supper.



If you match the ridge lines with the drop in grade, you could possibly have 10 to 12" side walls. Plenty more room that just 8' walls.

Need room for tools ? Get some pallet racking for the new space. It'll sit in the lower section but you can put the shelves at the correct height. All your tool stuff is out of the original garage foot print but still where you need it. Still leaving you valuable floor space down in the new section.

 

[The Cobbler]

I'd skip trying to match up the roof lines. Id turn the trusses 90° and make the ridge lines match.

and set the addition back from the current garage, so it looks like it was meant to be, rather than an "addition" .
You may have to consult an engineer to get an answer to your question.

 

[maswov]

What you describe kind of sounds like a body shop I worked at years ago. The paint shop was wider on higher ground and the body shop was long and narrow on lower ground.
Are you planning to connect the 2 buildings with a common roof or separate buildings?

 

[rburke65]

I have a similar situation with my pole barn, and I also don’t know if I’d have to pour another wall or what.

 

[4theDogs]

Are you planning to connect the 2 buildings with a common roof or separate buildings?

My plan is to have a common roof. I was also trying not to get into turning the trusses but that may have to be.

I will have to get an engineer involved to figure out if it is possible to put a footer in and have the garage stay stable.

Thanks for the conversation. I just keep accumulating stuff.

 

[toolmiser]

You could also turn the trusses 90 degrees like suggested, and add a "hip roof" on the new end and it will blend in a little better. That can also be done with trusses.

 

[NUTTSGT]

My plan is to have a common roof. I was also trying not to get into turning the trusses but that may have to be.

I will have to get an engineer involved to figure out if it is possible to put a footer in and have the garage stay stable.

Thanks for the conversation. I just keep accumulating stuff.

I'm no engineer but I know what I would do.

Footer with vertical rebar for block. Then I would core fill the entire wall abutting the old foundation along with a few cores back around from each corner.

The top course, I'd probably cut the block to pour a bond beam with horizontal rebar. Also strong enough to support removing the "now" interior wall and replace with a header.