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Garage Floor Coating Instructions

Garage Flooring

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Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
When I owned my other company we sold coatings as well as other garage flooring products. We have a huge percentage of customers coming to our site looking for coating products. One thing we have noticed is a lot of customers believe they can get by with very little work. We are working on installation instructions that make the amount of work clear.

Any thoughts from those of you who have put a coating down?
 
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LegacyIndustrial

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Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,994
Location
deerfield, IL
#1 Question from a DIY:

Do I really need to etch or grind my concrete is brand new?

#2 Question from a DIY

Can you do any better on the price?

Generally, these callers end up buying from the local home center or elsewhere and the folks who really want to know the correct procedure will bend our ears for a coffee or two...

Car manufacturers will tell you that alcohol and motor vehicle operation don't mix. Some still don't listen...
 

Falcon67

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
Prep, then prep some more.

I waited until the structure was up and dried in, so the floor was cured almost exactly 6 months (poured 7/24/11, painted 1/20/12). I used a Kelly-Moore High Build epoxy KM-15. I had a "connection" and liked the product description. And the price.

Prep: I tried a "low voc" etch from HD - didn't really like it. I also used a 24" squeegee - much better than any broom for water management. Rinsed, squeegee, rinsed, again. Since I didn't see much reaction out of the special etch solution, I got some 31% Muratic acid (pool acid) and mixed that 8 parts water to 1 part acid. I crawled the floor with a grinder and flap wheel to knock off any loose material and "puffs". Then etched a second time, rinse, rinse, rinse. I did not use a pressure washer, I just used a nozzle with good pressure and squeegeed the floor after every rinse. I did not neutralize anything because I could tell the floor was taking care of that pretty quick. When etching, I kept it wet and went over areas several times. I worked hard to not let the floor dry with just etch solution on it. I used a 1/2" nap roller for the etch and kept the hose handy to wash it down as soon as the reaction seemed to stop. If I didn't like (some shine left) that area after rinse, I'd do it over. Let the floor dry using fans several days since it was in the colder months. I even used the wife's hair dryer to dry the few cracks. I moved the fans around to dry under the wall plates and any dead air spots.

Paint: I bought 3 units of KM-15, thats a gallon plus a quart of hardener per unit. I mixed the KM-15 per instructions and thinned it 10% with MEK. Hind sight says I could have done 15% and been just fine. I did two units in a 5 gallon bucket first, then did the last unit when the bucked was about 1/4 from empty. Total product came to about 4 gallons. Pot life was 3 hours and I did 960 sq/ft in 2 1/2 hours. I could tell it was starting to set by the way the roller was working towards the end. Used a 9" wide 1/2" nap roller. I did have to change a roller at about 2/3 time when the first started leaving nips on the floor. I cut it way close - The last 8 square feet at the man door was done by getting every drop out of the bucket. Hind sight #2 - should have bought 4 kits - I would not have had to "push" the last bit so hard.

Results: So far, so good after 6 months. There were a couple of low gloss spots where I got it a little thin but nothing major. These look like a once over with the roller, missing a second or third pass. These are not anywhere near the man door where I was sweating the finish, so go figure. Grip appears good, no pops or voids even in the rough floor areas. It's dirty in areas and has some scuff marks but I'd expect that from moving things around, dragging boards, OSB sheets, etc. I think -possibly- some of the area in front of the big door was a little slow to cure due to cold weather. It seems to have possibly picked up a very, very slight tint from wind blown dirt under the door seal. I can only just see it if I wash the floor real good there. Part of that is a little rough, so it may just be dirt in pores that can't get washed out. Since lots of dirt, mud, dog prints, gold cart, etc gets tracked through the big door (still no grass or gravel in front of the door) and in from the man door, it's never clean there anyway. There has been constant come and go out the man door where I scraped the bottom of the bucket and leaned on the roller like a shovel. There is no sign of wearing or thin coating.

Cost: Total was under $300. Coating, rollers, HD bucket, acid, etch, etc.
 
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OP
G

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
#1 Question from a DIY:

Do I really need to etch or grind my concrete is brand new?

#2 Question from a DIY

Can you do any better on the price?

Generally, these callers end up buying from the local home center or elsewhere and the folks who really want to know the correct procedure will bend our ears for a coffee or two...

Car manufacturers will tell you that alcohol and motor vehicle operation don't mix. Some still don't listen...

I could have not said it better myself!
 

Jim B

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
196
Location
California, USA
Prep, then prep some more.

I waited until the structure was up and dried in, so the floor was cured almost exactly 6 months (poured 7/24/11, painted 1/20/12). I used a Kelly-Moore High Build epoxy KM-15. I had a "connection" and liked the product description. And the price.

Prep: I tried a "low voc" etch from HD - didn't really like it. I also used a 24" squeegee - much better than any broom for water management. Rinsed, squeegee, rinsed, again. Since I didn't see much reaction out of the special etch solution, I got some 31% Muratic acid (pool acid) and mixed that 8 parts water to 1 part acid. I crawled the floor with a grinder and flap wheel to knock off any loose material and "puffs". Then etched a second time, rinse, rinse, rinse. I did not use a pressure washer, I just used a nozzle with good pressure and squeegeed the floor after every rinse. I did not neutralize anything because I could tell the floor was taking care of that pretty quick. When etching, I kept it wet and went over areas several times. I worked hard to not let the floor dry with just etch solution on it. I used a 1/2" nap roller for the etch and kept the hose handy to wash it down as soon as the reaction seemed to stop. If I didn't like (some shine left) that area after rinse, I'd do it over. Let the floor dry using fans several days since it was in the colder months. I even used the wife's hair dryer to dry the few cracks. I moved the fans around to dry under the wall plates and any dead air spots.

Paint: I bought 3 units of KM-15, thats a gallon plus a quart of hardener per unit. I mixed the KM-15 per instructions and thinned it 10% with MEK. Hind sight says I could have done 15% and been just fine. I did two units in a 5 gallon bucket first, then did the last unit when the bucked was about 1/4 from empty. Total product came to about 4 gallons. Pot life was 3 hours and I did 960 sq/ft in 2 1/2 hours. I could tell it was starting to set by the way the roller was working towards the end. Used a 9" wide 1/2" nap roller. I did have to change a roller at about 2/3 time when the first started leaving nips on the floor. I cut it way close - The last 8 square feet at the man door was done by getting every drop out of the bucket. Hind sight #2 - should have bought 4 kits - I would not have had to "push" the last bit so hard.

Results: So far, so good after 6 months. There were a couple of low gloss spots where I got it a little thin but nothing major. These look like a once over with the roller, missing a second or third pass. These are not anywhere near the man door where I was sweating the finish, so go figure. Grip appears good, no pops or voids even in the rough floor areas. It's dirty in areas and has some scuff marks but I'd expect that from moving things around, dragging boards, OSB sheets, etc. I think -possibly- some of the area in front of the big door was a little slow to cure due to cold weather. It seems to have possibly picked up a very, very slight tint from wind blown dirt under the door seal. I can only just see it if I wash the floor real good there. Part of that is a little rough, so it may just be dirt in pores that can't get washed out. Since lots of dirt, mud, dog prints, gold cart, etc gets tracked through the big door (still no grass or gravel in front of the door) and in from the man door, it's never clean there anyway. There has been constant come and go out the man door where I scraped the bottom of the bucket and leaned on the roller like a shovel. There is no sign of wearing or thin coating.

Cost: Total was under $300. Coating, rollers, HD bucket, acid, etch, etc.

This brings up something I've been wondering about. Twenty three years ago and two weeks before I moved in to my house I epoxied the floor. I had no idea what I was doing. Epoxy garage floors where not at all common. I just figured I had this garage and epoxy would be the bees knees as I could just wipe up oil spills and easily clean the garage floor. And it would look good also. Sooo I went down to the local paint store and said I wanted some epoxy paint for my garage floor. The guy behind the counter asked me if I wanted grey or biege. I picked biege. He gave me 2 gallon cans and these verbal instructions. Mix half of each can together and paint the floor with a roller. The next day mix the rest and put on a second coat. Armed with this information and the two cans I went home and looked at the floorl. I figured it need some kind of "tooth" for the epoxy to stick and remembered how I had helped a friend acid wash a swimming pool with muriatic acid and water. I got some acid from the pool store, mixed it about 50/50 with water if I remember and poured it on the floor. Moved it around with a plastic bristle brush like we did on the pool and rinsed thoroughly. Next weekend I follow the instructions the paint store guy gave me. That epoxy has been there 23 years and countless oil changes a transmission change, a number of brake jobs and replaceing the suspension in my track care several times. I drag a floor jack over it, throw jack stand around and just generally abuse it. It looks nearly as good today as when I painted it. Sooo....was I just lucky? Are today's products less durable or harder to apply? Or are there a small number of people that have problems and that turns into epoxy garage floor urban legend on the internet. I'm getting ready to move and plan to epoxy my new garage. Not sure if I should be worried or just use common sense and the quality products I have already purchased.
 
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K04GTI

Active member
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
41
Few questions

Preparation:
- You said to use a single head grinder. Only place here rents a dual head grinder. I was going to use that. Is there any particular reasoning for saying single head. You may want to clarify.
- You didn't say what grit grinding to do
- Next question, if I'm having a bit of trouble getting an oil stain out completely, does that prevent me from going ahead and grinding? Then coming back and trying to finish cleaning up the oil if any is left?

Moisture Testing:
- Picture is upside down when clicked.

Floor Joints:
- My floor has no control joints. Is this a problem?
 

thomapa1

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 3, 2012
Messages
46
Looks good! A few points from my experience
- there is a difference between 'industrial' products (crack/spall repair products and epoxy) and consumer grade stuff found at Home Depot. (I was tempted to get Home Depot stuff)
- any way to tell if you have 'soft' concrete? While I did prep / everything as best I could...I have many hot tire pickup spalls after only 6 months. Wish i could have evaluated my floor prior to getting epoxy to determine that it was not a good candidate and should have gone with decking instead.
- emphasize thickness of epoxy spread. I have some lightly coated areas as I was trying to estimate how much to put down, then it was thicker at the end.
- Emphasize the use of primer to prevent outgassing and will actually reduce the risk of running out of epoxy
 

dcs Inc

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
Most commercial projects spec a minimal dry "mil" thickness. epoxies that are less than 100% solids shrink when they dry. To figure your own mil thickness, take 1604 (that's how many sq. ft. per gallon at 1 mil thick) and divide that by the sq. footage per gallon rate you apply it. For example, if applying at a rate of 100 sq. ft. per gallon, that equates to a 16 mil thickness for 100% solids. You can guesstimate the thickness on less than 100% solids. I have a chart somewhere that gives that conversion but never use it because I only deal with 100% solids.

If placing a primer coat, (which is a good idea by the way), using a vapor barrier epoxy adds more comfort., Also your "money coat" of epoxy will have a greater thickness because it's not soaking into the concrete. Less chance of out gassing and you can do a light spot sand to rid yourself of any **** that was inadvertently left on the concrete creating a smoother finish. It's always a good idea to use a notched squeegee for even coverage when placing.
 
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G

Garage Flooring

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Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
K04GTI

Oil Stains: These really need to be removed completely or properly protected using a special primer.

Grinder: The directions were written for the average DIY customer to try and avoid some of the pitfalls consumers run into with grinding. I am going to update those directions with some more specific info re grit. Great point.

Control Joints: The directions were written to cover what people will see on a job. The fact that you don't have them means less work :lol::lol: As far as "is it a problem" how old is the slab and do you have cracking


Thomas:

Excellent point on the primer. As to soft concrete and checking for it in advance, I am going to have to check on that one.

DCS:

Great info. I believe you take the same formula and multiply by the percentage of solids. So if it was 90% solids x .9

Jim B:

I need to be carful how I say this because it is a sensitive subject. You used judgment and common sense to do your floor knowing it was 'on you' if it did not work. You prepped it and took a lot of care in what you did. You took personal responsibility to do your job.

In todays market it is always the suppliers fault so we have to outline very specific, worst case steps.
 

Falcon67

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
I need to be carful how I say this because it is a sensitive subject. You used judgment and common sense to do your floor knowing it was 'on you' if it did not work. You prepped it and took a lot of care in what you did. You took personal responsibility to do your job.
LOL - a common problem I think. I picked what I did because of their claim:

"Ideal as a one coat system over marginal or poorly prepared surfaces where blasting is impractical or prohibited. Recommended as a high build primer under a wide variety of topcoats."

I felt there was a margin of error built into the product if I missed something in the prep. However, I made the specific choice to go under the recommended dry film thickness and forgo a primer coat. The result is clearly "on me" and I can deal with anything that happens. Kelly-Moore won't get any phone calls about product failure, should anything bad happen.

"The properly sound, cleaned concrete must be primed first with either KM-155, KM-1703 Epoxy Concrete Primer or self-primed with KM-15 reduced 15% with KM-S-74. Two finish coats of KM-15 Epoxy at approximately 5-7 mils dry per coat is recommended for light traffic areas." (KM-S-74 is just MEK in a fancy can)

My bet was hedged anyway IMHO - the old shop was 480 sq/ft and I did an etch and pushed a two gallon mix of some Lowes branded epoxy when I did that floor in 1998. Lots of hot race car tires on that floor over time and the floor pulled rubber off the tires LOL. I had to clean the rubber off with mineral spirits once in while.

Opposite that, I followed James Hardi's instructions to the letter, so any material issue with the siding would result in a claim.
 
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Garage Flooring

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Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
That may be true, but what is the actual percentage of issues comparred to non-issues?

Now break it out between pro install, and non-pro install.

Jim :cool:

We used to joke around that the DIY consumer could mess things up but to really screw it up took a professional :lol: Now before you all go and get mad at me....

Jim has a great point. BUT we have to be really careful about who we include in the professional category. I can not tell you how many people were 'professionals' until their job went bad then it was our fault for not telling them.

My definition of a professional is someone actively marketing and installing in the residential market. If that guy screws up a job you will never hear about it because he will fix it.

When we said it took a professional to screw it up, we meant someone who claimed to be a professional because they painted houses or were a contractor but really had no experience in the garage.
 
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