Garage floor covering question?

[jeepgod]

I am about to purchase a new home with attached garage. I do a lot of welding and other metal work, and I would like a nice looking floor that would hold up to this and also to oil and other solvants.

So far in all I have read from other boards is that I should get the concrete finished well, I forget the name for this, where it smoothes the surface. I have found some coatings for that type of floor, but does anyone know what that process will cost? The garage is 25x25. I am trying to get some ideals before I talk with the builder next month.

I also found a water based epoxy that "they" say holds up to welding. It's from UCoat. Has anyone had any experience with this product?

Thanks,
Patrick

 

[jrsully]

Stay away from the water based stuff won't last (Ucoat it and Rustoleum Home depot brand) use a solvent based paint like Rustoleum "industrial" epoxy paint, only comes in gray, not available at the Depot, can get it online, will hold up much better in a "working" garage.

 

[ChucksCrib]

Iraq?

Military? contractor? IED manufacturer?

 

[jeepgod]

U.S.M.C.

thanks for the reply... i'll look into that industrial stuff...

 

[Luckydevil]

U.S.M.C.

Thanks for serving and be safe over there!

 

[SteveL]

You can also look at the Sherwin Williams Armor Seal products. Available in a bunch of colors or can be special mixed to match any Sherwin Williams color. Plus, they have a clear coat that is made to go over the base coat. You can use it like U-Coat-It with color chips if you buy them yourself here.

There are a few here that have used the Sherwin Williams and one or two thagt are in process of doing their floors with it. Plan on doing two coats of whatever product you select if you want it to look good.

 

[Ryan M]

I finally settled on the paint/epoxy for my garage floor. I had narrowed it down to Rustoleum or Sherwin-Williams. I went with Sherwin-Williams, their Shield-Crete product. It only comes in two colors, pewter or beige. I went with pewter.

I was told the Armor Seal doesn't hold up to tire traffic as well. I really wanted more color options, but didn't want to take a chance.

Who knows if this is the best one, but after researching it for a while, I just needed to make a decision and go for it. I will probably be starting it in 2-3 weeks.

Good luck.

Ryan

 

[jeepgod]

my two concerns are hot slag... from torch/plasma cutter/welding and tires.. my jeep is usually in getting worked on and it sits on some 38x15" tires with locked axles.. so this isnt just driving a car in and out..

i guess i am mostly concerned about the hot slag.. some have said to use a welding blanket.. but i really dont feel like dragging that out and putting it down every time i go to weld or cut something.. its a garage... i want to work.. not worry...

i have about a month till i talk with the builder.. i think i am really going to look into getting the floor polished.. from what i can find.. it doesnt seem that expensive.. especially for a new floor..

now the question is.. if our local concrete guy can do this... i seem to live in hickville... where you can never get anything... damn country bumpkins.. (jk)

 

[krooser]

Polished...what's that all about?

 

[NHCharger]

I'm a building contractor. I have heard so many different ways to treat concrete I am begining to wonder if there is a "right" way.
I have heard several complaints about the U-Coat product. Apparently if it's not applied exactly as the instructions state, it will peel up when in contact with a hot tire.
I had my concrete floor guy do a polish finish in the garage at my old house, Big mistake. Add a little water on top and you have your own slip-n-slide.
In my new garage I told him not to polish the floor, that way I did not have to acid etch the floor before I painted it. I used Behr 1 coat epoxy paint on my new garage floor. I had to prime the floor first. I did it 8 months ago and so far it has held up to all the traffic. I don't have a welder yet so I have given it the true test.

 

[jeepgod]

polished... is like sanding hard wood floors.. they have big "sanders" that are actually grinders.. and they use diamond grit paper (not sure if that is a correct statement.. its sandpaper with diamonds on it?)... anyways.. it comes in different grits.. the higher the grit the more smooth the floor is (3500 grit) is pretty much top... and its smooth and hard like marble... so oil will not soak into the pores of the concrete...

ya.. i have thought about the water on it.. making it slick.. mmmmm...

could you polish it.. then put down a sealer... with some sort of grit in it??

i am still looking into this.. and will talk with the concrete guy once i am home also...

from what i have found on the polishing.. it doesnt look that expensive.. especially since this is a new floor...

 

[04 Navi]

You should always acid etch. The point of the etch is a micro-mechanical adhesion. Rough concrete will be spotty concerning adhesion. The best way is a nice smooth finish with acid etch and if you want some traction put silica sand in the first coat of paint. That way the second coat will smooth out the traction a little or if you want more traction add a little more silica, but a rough finish concrete will not hold up as well guarenteed. Been there done that.