Garage Floor Epoxy Project

[Beaks]

Hi Everyone-

I'm a new homeowner after having rented for 12 years. I'm getting ready to prep my garage floor for Epoxy covering, but I had a couple questions I was hoping you could help me with. I hope these questions aren't too basic, but after renting for 12 years, I don't know much about this stuff.

1) There are some old rust stains on the floor. Do I need to do anything to these, or just etch right over it? See attached picture.

2) I attached a picture of what I think may be a grease stain, is this what a grease stain would look like?

3) There are a couple big paint splotches on the floor, that are actually raised off the garage floor. I'm guessing these need to be removed, what is the process for removing these? Also, there is some residue of latex based paint on the concrete in some areas from when the garage was spray painted a few weeks ago. Will that come out with the etching, or does that need to be removed prior?

4) Lastly, on one of the edges there is some busted concrete. Is this worth attempting to patch, or should I simply remove the larger pieces, etch inside the holes, and paint the epoxy in there by hand? See attached picture.

Thank you in advance for any help.

-Eric

 

[Red Box]

Scrape the paint. Then etch. Chip out the broken concrete. Get some floorstone from a flooring supply company. Henry makes a good one. Drys in minutes. Trowel it smooth. Then you will be ready for epoxy.

If you are not happy after etching, you might rent or get a large floor grinder to further clean the years of **** off the floor. You can hire this out for not too much $. Super dusty job

 

[Beaks]

Thanks for the reply.

Do I need to lay the floor stone before etching?

 

[Red Box]

The acid etch may affect the fleather edge of the floor patch. So, etch first. Be sure to let the floor dry after the water rinse before making repairs.

 

[Fixnair]

I would recommend that you do not use the flakes. I Did and every time I drop a small part I cannot see it for the flakes on the floor. If there were none I could see something small on the floor.

 

[Amanda]

If you want some protection from slipping, but don't want to use flakes, you could go with grip beads.

 

[Beaks]

Thanks again for the replies, I etched my floor this morning and will be filling in the broken concrete tomorrow. A couple more questions.

1) Do I need to use patch very small holes or rough spots of concrete, or is the epoxy thick enough to just fill that in?

2) I was planning on using 2 coats of epoxy + gloss covering. Is that overkill? Is the gloss enough of a coating that 1 coat + gloss covering is sufficient?

Thanks again.

 

[bigbadktm]

First post...so here goes.

I assume that you are talking about using a product like rustoleum or the like? What they recommend as far as prep is for concrete that is already in great shape. With that prep method, I guarantee that your coating will blister and fail within a short amount of time.

Your floor is in desperate need of a more aggressive prep method. You can rent floor grinders, either stand up or a handheld 7", but you usually have to buy the diamond cup. If you have a 7" grinder, you can get a diamond cup at lowes or home depot. You will need a shroud and a vacuum to cut down on dust. They are dust-less, not dustless, so wear a respirator if you use this method. I did my friends floor in Vegas without a shroud and vacuum, and opted for a floor fan and huge cloud. I ended up acid staining that one and 2 coats of 100% solids epoxy. It is also recommended that acid not be used to prep before epoxy.

The big box store products are easy to use, but not very durable. Multiple coats would work best, and a decent coat of clear on top would help. Our method of installation goes as follows: grind, prime with water based or thinned out 100% solids epoxy, color coat of 100% solids epoxy with a paint chip broadcast, then finish with a coat of 100% solids clear. You can also opt for a second coat of clear or a chemical resistant urethane that resists yellowing and chemical penetrations.

 

[Beaks]

So I applied the Henry Patch n'Leveler about 15 hours ago. On the thicker patch spots it is still a little soft if you press on it.

Do I have to wait for it to be completely hard to paint over it, or if I carefully paint over it while soft, will it continue to cure under the paint?

 

[bigbadktm]

Let it dry, it will gas out and cause the paint or epoxy to bubble off. The patch needs to be completely dry before going over it.

 

[iibgdi]

Thanks again for the replies, I etched my floor this morning and will be filling in the broken concrete tomorrow. A couple more questions.

1) Do I need to use patch very small holes or rough spots of concrete, or is the epoxy thick enough to just fill that in?

2) I was planning on using 2 coats of epoxy + gloss covering. Is that overkill? Is the gloss enough of a coating that 1 coat + gloss covering is sufficient?

Thanks again.

I would highly recommend patching the pock marks and small holes etc. the epoxy can go in it but there is still a hole. It won't "fill" it. (I used the epoxy patch that was the same brand as the epoxy paint. worked well)

I used 2 coats of epoxy and a clear coat but I wasn't happy with the first shot. I only did half my garage and am going to do the other half next week and plan to do 2 coats and a clear coat again. Seems overkill and will cost me an extra $100 ($200 extra for whole garage) but I guess it is worth it if it looks great. The first half does look very nice.

 

[markspend1]

Hey Guys well that's really appreciating comments about that topic.Thanks!!

 

[rugerlady]

I would also do a simple water test where the "grease stain" is. Drip some water on the area and see if it beads up. If it absorbs in, your in good shape, if it beads up you will need to get a good degreaser and scrub it.