Garage floor for Welding

[Tbonedog]

For you guys that do a lot of welding in your garage, what type of floor/flooring works best? I just do hobby and light auto welding. I like the race deck type flooring, but I'd worry about ruining it. Thanks guys.


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[Streetbu]

Bare concrete is the best for welding. Anything else will have problems. I epoxied my floor with the cheap Rustoleum kit. Marked/blackened/stained where weld splatter landed on it. Racedeck is just plastic. Ceramic tile might work though...

 

[lakeroadster]

Bare concrete for me also.

Ceramic.... I can't imagine that would take much impact abuse (jack stands, axle stands, dropping lug wrenches, etc.

 

[JJThrasher]

Bare concrete is the best floor for all garage related uses. IMO

 

[Tbonedog]

But won't bare concrete absorb anything that gets spilled due to its porosity? There is a bad paint on what I have now. If I sand all of that off I would still have to seal it, right?


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[JJThrasher]

I just leave it bare and clean up oil spills. Water based stuff isn't much issue.

 

[lakeroadster]

But won't bare concrete absorb anything that gets spilled due to its porosity? There is a bad paint on what I have now. If I sand all of that off I would still have to seal it, right?

Unless the sealer you use soaks into the pours of the concrete it will do the same thing the paint is doing now.. namely flake off.

My 1st shop I poured myself and painted with concrete paint back in the early 1980's. Didn't hold up well at all.

The 3 shops I've had since I just leave the concrete raw. Use kitty litter to absorb big spills, aerosol brake cleaner for small oil drips.

I'll throw some large pieces of cardboard down whenever I'm doing oil changes or other such type work.

It's a shop... look at those stains and welding marks as a thing of pride.

 

[Blazinzuk]

Straight up concrete raw uncoated.

 

[DCarr2]

Latex paint rarely if ever sticks to concrete floors for long, and spills, let the spill dry then peel it off with a putting knife if it doesnt flake off on its own...

I have had a few full gallons of latex paint explode on the shaker, latex paint EVERYWHERE clean off cabinets ect, let the floor dry, or youll make an even bigger mess and whatever do dont let your dog walk thruogh it!

 

[BD1]

you could lay down some 1/4'' masonite over the existing finish and then lay a fire blankets on top. We do this all the time welding on school gym floors.

 

[sberry]

Contrary not everything that drains out of something has to end up on the floor. I wipe right up, even use some cardboard for grease or dirt on occasion and keep a little sawdust and floor dry on hand.

 

[Steevo]

I have sealed, stained concrete, which works the same as bare concrete as far as no damage from welding slag/spatter.

 

[A**holes Garage]

My bare concrete floor was a mess. Had an epoxy coating applied. Not good for welding, which I do every weekend.

I lay down welding blankets on the floor to protect the floor, works great.

 

[astroracer]

But won't bare concrete absorb anything that gets spilled due to its porosity? There is a bad paint on what I have now. If I sand all of that off I would still have to seal it, right?

It's a GARAGE floor. It's not where you eat, it's where you work. Whether it's peeling paint or a few stains it doesn't really matter, does it?
I have some pretty ugly floors in my shop and I am very proud of them. A lot of work has been done in there and I can look at every stain and tell you a story about it.
As you can tell I couldn't care less what my floors "look" like, as long as they still hold my equipment up we're good.
Mark

 

[mike93lx]

Ceramic.... I can't imagine that would take much impact abuse (jack stands, axle stands, dropping lug wrenches, etc.

You should research that a bit as you'll be surprised at how durable tile is when properly installed.

 

[Thumper68]

If you want a floor that looks nice all the time, good luck.

I weld a lot, and grind, and paint, and drag stuff across it, spill on it and rally don't care because it is a shop not a show room.

I used the Rustoleum epoxy and yes it shows the weld marks some burns a few stains, drag marks and different colors of paint, but it sweeps easy and like I said it is a working shop not a show room.

 

[sni-per]

I put down some of the cheap rubber padding squares. Never an issue with flammability, and when they get too unsightly, I just replace them. I get sore standing on bare concrete, and the pads sure help in that regard.

 

[lakeroadster]

I put down some of the cheap rubber padding squares........

Need more information... don't they smell like Fred Sanfords trash yard when you are welding over them? Nothin' much worse than burnin' rubber... unless it's mixed with nitro

 

[nadogail]

I allowed my shop floor to be coated a commercial epoxy. The contractor who applied it did a very professional job.

My error was in not realizing that even the best commercial epoxy is no match for welding slag. I also spray painted with black oil based paint, the overspray did a number on the floor.

After two years, I am no longer reminded every time my wife sees the floor how much it cost.

I suggest you select a bare concrete floor, sealed with Thompson's Water Seal or a similar product.

 

[maxpower_hd]

Mine is polished but bare concrete. No issues at all.

 

[Spoiled Bradt]

You should research that a bit as you'll be surprised at how durable tile is when properly installed.

Specifically porcelain types. They're incredibly tough and merely need an acid wash now and then to restore to like new. At first you think the spatter killed it. Then the acid wash proves you wrong. Amazing $tuff.

 

[bobcatdan]

I like bare concrete, for a shop it just works best. I don't like painted floors as everyone I have ever seen gets so slick when wet, it's like working on ice. My buddy put some really expensive epoxy on his shop floor. It looks really nice, but can't weld or use a torch without covering it. While better then paint, his floor still gets slick.

 

[lakeroadster]

Bare concrete for me also.

Ceramic.... I can't imagine that would take much impact abuse (jack stands, axle stands, dropping lug wrenches, etc.

You should research that a bit as you'll be surprised at how durable tile is when properly installed.

For a pampered man cave parking area, sure. But not for a working shop. Drop one of these... and it's time for new tile.

 

[tgj7]

Burnished steel trowel and then I used a penetrating concrete sealer. The smooth surface makes clean up easy, but the sealer only "resists" oil, so you have to remove it within a day or so or it will stain.

http://www.concretesealersusa.com/penetrating-concrete-sealers/

 

[ilovevocs]

Another vote for bare concrete.

I clean up big stains with floor dry and a 2x4. You grind the floor dry into the concrete with the 2x and work it until it looks like almost gone. Then I use lacquer thinner with a scrub brush and dry with a rag. It picks up all the paint, oil, ect. I use brake cleaner for spot cleaning. Wear a mask with the lacquer thinner and do it with the door open.

 

[Dragfluid]

Yes for bare concrete. All the reasons have already been stated. 'Nuff said.

An alternative for floor dry/kitty litter is Portland cement. Just a little bit broomed into the oil spill ***** it right up! And you can dump it in the trash afterwards.

 

[Angelfire]

For a pampered man cave parking area, sure. But not for a working shop. Drop one of these... and it's time for new tile.

It's been shown a number of times particularly in the flooring section, that if tiles are installed properly, they will be harder than the concrete itself and you could drop that tire iron all day long without issue. Check out Jack Olsen's garage....here's a video of him whacking his CERAMIC tile with a sledge with no damage whatsoever (

)...porcelain is even harder. If done properly, not too much beats a porcelain floor.

 

[Falcon67]

I epoxy paint my floors for easy clean up and don't worry about welding spatter or anything else. I have work to do, the floor will be fine. Wear and tear is expected.

 

[bdamico]

For a pampered man cave parking area, sure. But not for a working shop. Drop one of these... and it's time for new tile.

Sorry but you really don't know what you're talking about. My tiles are harder than the concrete on which they were laid.

 

[A_Pmech]

I epoxy paint my floors for easy clean up and don't worry about welding spatter or anything else. I have work to do, the floor will be fine. Wear and tear is expected.

Yup.

Bare concrete ***** up all the light in a space and is impossible to keep clean.

 

[sz0k30]

But won't bare concrete absorb anything that gets spilled due to its porosity?

YEAH, but so what? It'll still outlive you.

 

[tgj7]

It's been shown a number of times particularly in the flooring section, that if tiles are installed properly, they will be harder than the concrete itself and you could drop that tire iron all day long without issue. Check out Jack Olsen's garage....here's a video of him whacking his CERAMIC tile with a sledge with no damage whatsoever (

is even harder. If done properly, not too much beats a porcelain floor.

He states:
"...commercial tiles are than the ones in a typical bathroom"

I do agree with that porcelain floors are strong. I dropped a hammer from 12' in the air on them and not a chip.

But still not in a working garage.

 

[My Old Tools]

Acid stained and sealed concrete will eventually wear through the sealer and even through the stained layer. I know, where I had my computer desk in my old shopdominium eventually wore through the stain where I moved the chair all the time. Also, anything that leaks on it will eventually weep through the sealer and darken the concrete underneath. It's not a cure all.

 

[jaybirdicus45]

best of both worlds. my outside shop has plain, ordinary dirt. no fire hazzard, absorbs all spills, and doesn't care if weld spatter, or cutting torch slag gets on it. totally maintnance free, and never cracks ! same color year after year-- designer dirt.

 

[Dragfluid]

YEAH, but so what? It'll still outlive you.

That reminds me of something one of my concrete guys told me years ago.

"We guarantee it for two things: That it cracks, and that no one will steal it!"

 

[lakeroadster]

Sorry but you really don't know what you're talking about. My tiles are harder than the concrete on which they were laid.

Harder... sure.

Will it chip / crack if you drop a 5 lb wrench from a height of 3 foot?

If you would, post up some data that backs up your premise.... I'm sure the OP would appreciate it.

 

[wdrumheller]

I coated most of my shop floor and shop basement with LusterSeal 300 http://www.euclidchemical.com/produ...solvent-based-curing-sealing/luster-seal-300/

I'm pleased with it. It resists water. It "resists" transmission fluid if you clean it up within a few minutes. It does NOT resist brake fluid, but the fluid evaporates mostly, and leaves minimal staining.

However, it definitely gets marks from welding spatter on it, and although it cleans "mostly" up, there are still a few marks.

Bare polished concrete is probably your best bet. If you choose to seal it, protect the floor from the hot spatter and it will be worth your while. I like the sealer a lot because sweeping is easy, mopping is a breeze, and the floor looks darn good after these 4 years of use. It will never look like it did when I first put it down, but I'm still pleased with it and would do it again.

The cheap stuff from Lowe's *****. I used it on my machine shop area and whenever a drop of water lands on it, it soaks through. Dirt sticks.

Spend the money.

You know, there is some sort of finish that they use for the floors at big retail places, that is a chemical bonding agent that gets more polished as time passes. I think it's this stuff http://www.wrmeadows.com/polished-concrete-flooring-induroshine/ that gets better and more polished with wear.

 

[bdamico]

Harder... sure.

Will it chip / crack if you drop a 5 lb wrench from a height of 3 foot?

If you would, post up some data that backs up your premise.... I'm sure the OP would appreciate it.

It's not a premise. It has been well documented in the flooring forum and elsewhere for years. Every time it comes up in the flooring forum, someone without personal knowledge says the same thing you did here. And it gets rebutted by multiple people with personal knowledge. There is a thread called can your floor do this or something like that. To call Jack Olsen's garage not a working garage is somewhat silly--and he didn't use fancy commercial tiles but the cheapest ones he could find on clearance. My rectified porcelain tiles are even much stronger than that.

I have personally dropped wrenches and my hammer drill and several other items I can't recall from about 7 or 8 feet when I building my soffit. Not a scratch Racing teams have used them. People have pulled engines, dropped engines, jacked up cars, jack stands, rolled heavy equipment, fork lifts, etc. If anyone cares to educate themselves, search porcelain in the flooring forum; I sure am glad I did.

 

[ZRX61]

That reminds me of something one of my concrete guys told me years ago.

"We guarantee it for two things: That it cracks, and that no one will steel it!"

Used to help a friend doing carpet fitting as a side job. When ever someone asked what the guarantee was we'd say "It will be the right way up"

 

[bwringer]

I believe gravel around the forge area is traditional in Ye Olde Blacksmith Shoppe.

May or may not be a good idea in an area where you're welding, but I can think of some advantages.