Garage Floor Plan Critique

[zeug]

Hi Guys, I am looking for some feedback on my garage plan. I have seen such great designs and ideas come from this community, I thought I would ask for a bit of help.
I have been working with an architect in designing a detached garage on a lot we bought earlier this year. The lot is only 10 minutes away from our current home, so we thought we would build the garage first, alleviate a bit of clutter in our current garage, and then work on building the new house next year. I am also trying to pay for the garage out of pocket and not borrow any $$. Timelines may be affected by my pocketbook!
We won’t be moving out of the current house, so we don’t need to live in the apartment above the garage. With 4 kids, that wouldn’t be an option anyway. But the apartment does fit into long term plans of having a “mother-in-law” suite / office. It also will knock down the taxes here in El Paso County, CO by over 2/3 for having livable space on the land.
Never worked with an architect on a personal project. It is quite the challenge to balance budget, needs, and wants. Original plan was to keep the garage square footage to around 1800. That didn’t happen! The plan below is around 2300. I don’t have any problems with the plan as it sits, but sure would like some input to help me feel like I haven’t overlooked anything.
Work Area is to the far left. It is 13’ x 30’. I wanted a place to keep drill press, floor standing grinder, welders, and still have counters around the walls and place for a fab table in the middle. 10’ ceilings.

2 Car garage is to the right of the work area. At 30’ deep and 24’ wide, I figured I can store a lot of cars if needed and work comfortable on two cars if not over crowded. 10’ ceilings.
Next is the lift area. I struggled with this one. I really wanted it by the work area, but wanted the work area to be along a side wall for counter space and such. I could not move the lift are further left because the apartment is above that area and needed lower ceilings. Lift are ceiling is 16’
RV storage is on the far right. Needed this for a toy hauler, but though I better build if for a 40 motor home just in case  With the toy hauler, I will have plenty of additional room there for storage of motorcycles.
Back room with double doors is for tool storage. I have a lot of power tools that will be kept in here. Ladders, cords and the like as well. Keeps the shop clean and hopefully the tools secure.
The counter coming into the space between the lift and garage space is just an idea for more counter space around the lift if needed.
Any comments on functionality of the layout? Would really love to hear what you think.

Apartment:

 

[zeug]

Exterior Elevation:

 

[ODIS]

This looks really nice! The only comment that I can make is to increase the height in the garage under the apt. Only by 6 inches and to recess the lights in this area as well to maximise clearance. The 6" increase should not effect the overall elevations that much and now, you can install 4 post lifts in this area. At least, this dimension works well in my shop space. Further, when planning for your lifts, consider installing up-lighting between the lift rails or the 2 post supports. Lastly, if you have the time and desire, learn to use Sketch-Up or other 3d modeling program. Will be a big payoff for you in terms of planning and communication with your architect.

Looking forward to your build.

Ody.

 

[55cadillacking]

The floor plan makes me drool. If I was forced to comment on something, I would probably suggest seeing a mock up of the front elevation with a gable over the apartment windows.

 

[zeug]

Thanks for the input Ody. I am at 10' now. If I go up to 10'6" I can put a 4 post in there? I hadnt figured that space for 2 level storage, but that may be worth considering. I will check the ceiling clearance for some of the standard 4 posts.

Kent

This looks really nice! The only comment that I can make is to increase the height in the garage under the apt. Only by 6 inches and to recess the lights in this area as well to maximise clearance. The 6" increase should not effect the overall elevations that much and now, you can install 4 post lifts in this area. At least, this dimension works well in my shop space. Further, when planning for your lifts, consider installing up-lighting between the lift rails or the 2 post supports. Lastly, if you have the time and desire, learn to use Sketch-Up or other 3d modeling program. Will be a big payoff for you in terms of planning and communication with your architect.

Looking forward to your build.

Ody.

 

[zeug]

Quick question: How long should I make the RV section? Planning for a 40 motorhome, but only have a 30 toy hauler at the moment.

Is 45' deep enough, or should I go more? I don't want to go deeper than needed but too short would be tragic. Any real world experience?

Thanks,

Kent

 

[bluto74]

i would have the tools/work area by the lift..not separated by two cars

 

[zeug]

i would have the tools/work area by the lift..not separated by two cars

Yes Bluto, I hear you on that. I struggled for a while with the lift/work area location.

The lift had to be where it is because of needing a higher ceiling and the apartment is over the rest of the garage. I could not raise the apartment any more.

I also wanted a work area along two walls for more wall space. I need to have a place for a large fab table, band saw, drill press, etc. That was the only place that had two walls. This will be mostly for fabrication and not mechanics work.

Just wondering if I put mechanics tools over by the lift, will I regret having them far from the fab space? Perhaps a rolling tool chest would help here. I also need to go through my tools and see how much overlap there would be between fab tools and mechanics tools. It might not be that bad.

Not sure of any other options.

Kent

 

[Photo]

Quick question: How long should I make the RV section? Planning for a 40 motorhome, but only have a 30 toy hauler at the moment.

Is 45' deep enough, or should I go more? I don't want to go deeper than needed but too short would be tragic. Any real world experience?

Thanks,

Kent

zeug;

Always more! I wouldn't build anything less than 50'long (currently planning my next building at 66' long!).

Most motorhomes or 5th wheels currently max out @ 45'. If you ever plan on upgrading, this should be the shortest you should consider (you should be able to walk around your entire rig without opening the door). You may want to be able to park your current rig in already connected in the future. My MH & toad connected are currently 55' long.

Door should be a MINIMUM of 12' wide x 14' high, 16' x 16' is a dream, but do it if you can.

Remember, very few ever said 'darn, I wish I would have built it a little smaller!'.

Lane

 

[DEnd]

Like Lane said, the RV storage is a bit short (length wise). Also the door should be at least 14' high.

If you are actually going to be welding and grinding then it may be beneficial to add a wall between the RV storage area and the rest of the garage. The other vehicles can have car covers put on them (to protect them from the dust), however RVs can be a bit of a PITA to put one on.

 

[Zeke]

The lift seems to be under the lowest roof section. Not only is that design going to cost more money to build but it doesn't look high enough. What am I missing?

 

[zeug]

Like Lane said, the RV storage is a bit short (length wise). Also the door should be at least 14' high.

If you are actually going to be welding and grinding then it may be beneficial to add a wall between the RV storage area and the rest of the garage. The other vehicles can have car covers put on them (to protect them from the dust), however RVs can be a bit of a PITA to put one on.

Thanks DEnd,

Went to 44' inside dimension on the RV. Door is now 12' x 14' high.

I have it planned right now without a wall between the RV and the rest of the garage. But, if needed I can put one in later. I thought about this for a while and couldnt come to a decision. So I made the option to do either. For some reason, I am hung up on having as much continuous space as possible. I have issues

 

[zeug]

The lift seems to be under the lowest roof section. Not only is that design going to cost more money to build but it doesn't look high enough. What am I missing?

Zeke, the outside elevation drawing is a bit missleading. The architect did that as an exercize and I dont think the middle roofline will work like that.

The ceiling in the RV and Lift area are both 16 feet high. We are working on the roof plan now. Uhg, it's taking for ever....

As for cost, I had originally wanted no supporting posts in the entire garage. Well, after a few talks to the floor truss companies, That became a very expensive proposition. We decided to put a supporting post on each side of the lift. Since there is already a two post lift, we will line the supporting posts up to be roughly in the same spot. This alloows me to use less expensive roof trusses over the lift and RV area. The Apartment will be stick framed with a very large dormer.

Kent

 

[Kevin54]

If you are going to have a mother-in-law suite, I would have a partition wall under the apartment to eliminate some noise. Also, not knowing your MIL or her age, if she is getting up there in years, possibly excavate the ground some more, add a retaining wall down to the drive and try to eliminate steps going into the apartment. The less steps you have the better especially for an older person.

When I talk about a partition wall underneath, if your MIL drives and is going to park in the garage at any time. Put her parking as far to the laft as you can. In the apartment, I don't see any bedroom. I'd move the kitchen to the right hand side of the apartment, Living space in the middle, then possibly the bedroom where the kitchen now is.

That way, she would have a one stall parking space and the bedroom would be segragated from most of the garage. If you wanted to do some late night working in the garage, then you could without disturbing the MIL. Also give it some consideration to the space about using soundproofing materials. For one is hanging the drywall on the bars where it helps to eliminate noise. Thicker wall between the garage and the apartment. Also consider fireproofing materials as much as you can between the garage and the apartment. Depending on how long you have planning on the MIL living with you guys, and with eliminating steps by building up the ground higher, also consider 4' door openings instead of 3' door openings. If small things like that now are made handicap accessible, whenever you would go to sell if you would decide on it, that would make a major selling point for a future buyer.

 

[zeug]

If you are going to have a mother-in-law suite, I would have a partition wall under the apartment to eliminate some noise. Also, not knowing your MIL or her age, if she is getting up there in years, possibly excavate the ground some more, add a retaining wall down to the drive and try to eliminate steps going into the apartment. The less steps you have the better especially for an older person.

When I talk about a partition wall underneath, if your MIL drives and is going to park in the garage at any time. Put her parking as far to the laft as you can. In the apartment, I don't see any bedroom. I'd move the kitchen to the right hand side of the apartment, Living space in the middle, then possibly the bedroom where the kitchen now is.

That way, she would have a one stall parking space and the bedroom would be segragated from most of the garage. If you wanted to do some late night working in the garage, then you could without disturbing the MIL. Also give it some consideration to the space about using soundproofing materials. For one is hanging the drywall on the bars where it helps to eliminate noise. Thicker wall between the garage and the apartment. Also consider fireproofing materials as much as you can between the garage and the apartment. Depending on how long you have planning on the MIL living with you guys, and with eliminating steps by building up the ground higher, also consider 4' door openings instead of 3' door openings. If small things like that now are made handicap accessible, whenever you would go to sell if you would decide on it, that would make a major selling point for a future buyer.

I use the term MIL as a generic term for accesory apartment. We dont have any plans for a MIL to live there at this point. Not sure I could give up a space in the shop for apartment parking. If it is one of my kids living there, then perhaps they will park outside or in the third car spot in the house garage.

The house garage will be mid way up the apartment level and has half the steps as from the shop level. We tried to make the apartment feel like an extension of the house, and not the shop.

No stairs in the shop would make it kind of a pain anyways. I guess we would adapt if needed, but hoping the apartment will be used for hollidays and visitors. It may even become my office at some point.

Kent

 

[Steevo]

If you will have posts on each side of the lift, that would indicate that there will be a beam running across them to support the trusses.
Will this end up with a beam right across your lift?

Never mine. I think I answered my own question.

It looks like there would have to be a beam front-to-back along either side of the lift bay to support roof structure and upstairs.

 

[zeug]

If you will have posts on each side of the lift, that would indicate that there will be a beam running across them to support the trusses.
Will this end up with a beam right across your lift?

Never mine. I think I answered my own question.

It looks like there would have to be a beam front-to-back along either side of the lift bay to support roof structure and upstairs.

Yep, you got it- front to back. At 16 feet ceiling height, I think I should be good.