FunfDreisig
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2008
- Messages
- 413
After reading a lot posts, I still have a few questions about the best floor strategy for an unheated, freestanding 3 bay garage that I built in 2009. Since then it has primarily been used to store construction materials and well… junk. So the concrete is still pretty clean, except for a few oil drip spots. I’m not overly concerned about appearance in the short term. But would like a nice looking/functioning 2 bay mechanics garage in 3-5 years when I finally have time to install the lift and begin rebuilding/restoring our ’68 911 and ’77 530i.
Location: the Texas Hill Country near Austin
Micro-climate: narrow valley frequently goes to dew point in the AM -> concrete floor often “sweats”
Double bay usage (30x24’):
Now - Storage of the old cars + parts, with a 6x12’ mechanics workbench/area on one side
Later - Install lift and begin rebuilds/restorations.
Single bay usage (12x24’):
Now - Lumber/construction-tool storage
Later - garage for working tractor w/dirty tires, etc.
Details: the floor is ”level” with 4x8’ sliding doors and perimeter drains to keep rain/water out. Cars will not be parked inside if wet. The attached 12x24’ carport protects the 24’ main opening and provides space for maintenance of daily use vehicles, tractor, etc.
Issues: completely clearing the 2 bay and installing the whole floor at the same time would be a pain. So I would rather clear and install the flooring in sections.
Flooring Choices: During the design/construction I had always expected to diamond grind the concrete and apply an epoxy floor in both bays. But other projects intervened and that didn’t happen. So now it seems better to apply a flooring that can be done in sections. My current thinking is Ghost Shield and Norsk PVC tiles in the double bay and just Ghost Shield in the single tractor bay.
Questions:
Is Ghost Shield tough enough to handle the tractor?
Is Ghost Shield a good sealer for under Norsk PVC tiles?
Do Norse PVC tiles handle fluid spills well e.g. oil, anti-freeze, etc.)?
Do Norse PVC tiles really vent enough to keep the “sweating” concrete from mildewing, etc.?
Can Ghost Shield be applied in sections without too much visible “seam”?
Does it make sense to just “seal” the concrete with Ghost Shield now and later install the Norsk PVC tiles prior to restoration work?
Is there a cheaper/better flooring that would do the job?
Thanks in advance — Funf Dreisig
Location: the Texas Hill Country near Austin
Micro-climate: narrow valley frequently goes to dew point in the AM -> concrete floor often “sweats”
Double bay usage (30x24’):
Now - Storage of the old cars + parts, with a 6x12’ mechanics workbench/area on one side
Later - Install lift and begin rebuilds/restorations.
Single bay usage (12x24’):
Now - Lumber/construction-tool storage
Later - garage for working tractor w/dirty tires, etc.
Details: the floor is ”level” with 4x8’ sliding doors and perimeter drains to keep rain/water out. Cars will not be parked inside if wet. The attached 12x24’ carport protects the 24’ main opening and provides space for maintenance of daily use vehicles, tractor, etc.
Issues: completely clearing the 2 bay and installing the whole floor at the same time would be a pain. So I would rather clear and install the flooring in sections.
Flooring Choices: During the design/construction I had always expected to diamond grind the concrete and apply an epoxy floor in both bays. But other projects intervened and that didn’t happen. So now it seems better to apply a flooring that can be done in sections. My current thinking is Ghost Shield and Norsk PVC tiles in the double bay and just Ghost Shield in the single tractor bay.
Questions:
Is Ghost Shield tough enough to handle the tractor?
Is Ghost Shield a good sealer for under Norsk PVC tiles?
Do Norse PVC tiles handle fluid spills well e.g. oil, anti-freeze, etc.)?
Do Norse PVC tiles really vent enough to keep the “sweating” concrete from mildewing, etc.?
Can Ghost Shield be applied in sections without too much visible “seam”?
Does it make sense to just “seal” the concrete with Ghost Shield now and later install the Norsk PVC tiles prior to restoration work?
Is there a cheaper/better flooring that would do the job?
Thanks in advance — Funf Dreisig
