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Garage Floor Questions

FunfDreisig

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2008
Messages
413
After reading a lot posts, I still have a few questions about the best floor strategy for an unheated, freestanding 3 bay garage that I built in 2009. Since then it has primarily been used to store construction materials and well… junk. So the concrete is still pretty clean, except for a few oil drip spots. I’m not overly concerned about appearance in the short term. But would like a nice looking/functioning 2 bay mechanics garage in 3-5 years when I finally have time to install the lift and begin rebuilding/restoring our ’68 911 and ’77 530i.

Location: the Texas Hill Country near Austin
Micro-climate: narrow valley frequently goes to dew point in the AM -> concrete floor often “sweats”

Double bay usage (30x24’):
Now - Storage of the old cars + parts, with a 6x12’ mechanics workbench/area on one side
Later - Install lift and begin rebuilds/restorations.

Single bay usage (12x24’):
Now - Lumber/construction-tool storage
Later - garage for working tractor w/dirty tires, etc.

Details: the floor is ”level” with 4x8’ sliding doors and perimeter drains to keep rain/water out. Cars will not be parked inside if wet. The attached 12x24’ carport protects the 24’ main opening and provides space for maintenance of daily use vehicles, tractor, etc.

Issues: completely clearing the 2 bay and installing the whole floor at the same time would be a pain. So I would rather clear and install the flooring in sections.

Flooring Choices: During the design/construction I had always expected to diamond grind the concrete and apply an epoxy floor in both bays. But other projects intervened and that didn’t happen. So now it seems better to apply a flooring that can be done in sections. My current thinking is Ghost Shield and Norsk PVC tiles in the double bay and just Ghost Shield in the single tractor bay.

Questions:
Is Ghost Shield tough enough to handle the tractor?
Is Ghost Shield a good sealer for under Norsk PVC tiles?
Do Norse PVC tiles handle fluid spills well e.g. oil, anti-freeze, etc.)?
Do Norse PVC tiles really vent enough to keep the “sweating” concrete from mildewing, etc.?
Can Ghost Shield be applied in sections without too much visible “seam”?
Does it make sense to just “seal” the concrete with Ghost Shield now and later install the Norsk PVC tiles prior to restoration work?
Is there a cheaper/better flooring that would do the job?

Thanks in advance — Funf Dreisig
 

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lakeroadster

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Location
Central Colorado
Is there a cheaper/better flooring that would do the job?

Thanks in advance — Funf Dreisig

Cheaper.. Yes.. I used Eagle Natural Seal on the concrete slab in my barn.

It's available from Home Depot, $78.92 for a 5 gallon pail. Shipped to your door for free.

It doesn't change the look of the concrete, just seals it.

Water beads up nicely.

When I was installing my 2 post Rotary Lift about a quart of fluid (Auto Trans Fluid) leaked out onto the floor, I cleaned it up, you can't tell it ever happened.

Better: I doubt you'll find anyone that can give an unbiased technical answer.
 
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FunfDreisig

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Feb 12, 2008
Messages
413
Thanks for the quick reply.

A few more questions…
How large is your barn and how many gallons did it take (i.e. coverage)?
How much prep was involved?
Did you apply it in one go or in sections?
How long has it been down?

Thanks again — Funf dreisig
 

lakeroadster

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2015
Messages
5,166
Location
Central Colorado
Thanks for the quick reply.

A few more questions…
How large is your barn and how many gallons did it take (i.e. coverage)?
How much prep was involved?
Did you apply it in one go or in sections?
How long has it been down?

Thanks again — Funf dreisig

The barn is 30' x 44'.
I bought a 5 gallon pail and still have about 2 gallons left.
No prep, but I sealed it 28 days after the concrete was poured and it had nothing but foot traffic on it prior to that time.
Applied it 06-24-2016 using a roller. The barn has 3 bays, I sealed the slab in each bay, one at a time, the same day.

It looks "wet" when you apply it.. but after a while that look goes away and the slab looks like you didn't apply anything.

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This photo was taken about a week after the sealer was applied

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Garage Flooring

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Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Good questions. Please see my comments

Questions:
Is Ghost Shield tough enough to handle the tractor?

Absolutely. Ghostshield does not create a film. Your strength comes from the concrete.

Is Ghost Shield a good sealer for under Norsk PVC tiles? If you are referring to the 8505 or 8510, it is great, but expensive. If you do a solid tile something like the 9500 or TL39 would be fine. I'm just not sure a solid

Do Norse PVC tiles handle fluid spills well e.g. oil, anti-freeze, etc.)? If cleaned up in a reasonable period of time
Do Norse PVC tiles really vent enough to keep the “sweating” concrete from mildewing, etc.? Are you looking at a solid or the vented tile. I would use a ventile tile for this application
Can Ghost Shield be applied in sections without too much visible “seam”? NO. It will reject itself
Does it make sense to just “seal” the concrete with Ghost Shield now and later install the Norsk PVC tiles prior to restoration work? Yes doing the Ghostshield makes sense for the entire garage.
Is there a cheaper/better flooring that would do the job? I really would like to talk you about the project desired outcome to make that determination

Thanks in advance — Funf Dreisig
 
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FunfDreisig

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2008
Messages
413
The barn is 30' x 44'.
I bought a 5 gallon pail and still have about 2 gallons left.
No prep, but I sealed it 28 days after the concrete was poured and it had nothing but foot traffic on it prior to that time.
Applied it 06-24-2016 using a roller. The barn has 3 bays, I sealed the slab in each bay, one at a time, the same day....
Lake Roadster:

Thanks again for the additional info. on your barn. I like the wide open spaces with plenty of light :)

Your barn is larger than my tractor shed (24x42’). So 5 gal would probably be more than enough for me. I’d have more floor prep, since it’s been almost 8 yrs since the pour. But I’ve been pretty careful, so it may not be too hard to get it cleaned up. I like the price and the connivence of rolling it on. If I needed to split the job, I could probably blue tape plastic on the edge of the completed bay to minimize the “seam” between sections. My third (tractor) bay is separated by a wall with a man door. So it could be done later, after I get the lumber out.

Thanks again — Funf Dreisig
 
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FunfDreisig

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2008
Messages
413
Good questions. Please see my comments
GarageFlooring LLC:

Thanks for your reply.

I guess I’m a little confused about the differences in the Ghost Shield products: e.g. 8505/8510 vs 9500 or TL39. Specifically which product would be the right one under a Norsk ventilated PVC tile. And which would hold up well enough to be lightly used for 3-5 yrs and then covered with the Norsk ventilated PVC tile.

I’ll try to contact you at work and discuss the project further. When would be a good time to call?

Thanks — Funf Dreisig
 

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
GarageFlooring LLC:

Thanks for your reply.

I guess I’m a little confused about the differences in the Ghost Shield products: e.g. 8505/8510 vs 9500 or TL39. Specifically which product would be the right one under a Norsk ventilated PVC tile. And which would hold up well enough to be lightly used for 3-5 yrs and then covered with the Norsk ventilated PVC tile.

I’ll try to contact you at work and discuss the project further. When would be a good time to call?

Thanks — Funf Dreisig

9500: high end densifier and sealer but does not contain the fluorocarbons to prevent oil stains that 8505 and 8510 have.

8505: Ghostshields original, water-based , sealer and oil repellent.
8510: Ghostshields NEW, solvent-based , sealer and oil repellent.

The 8510 ships better this time of year and has better coverage year round. it also penetrates better and has less issues associated with over application.

We suggest a densifier prior to 8505 or 8510, but it is not required.

I would use 9500 if I was not concerned about automotive fluids. I would use 8510 if I was concerned about automotive fluids.

This week, any time after 9 and before 4 MST

PVC tiles have advantages and disadvantages. I want to make sure we cover that so you can make an educated decision. We sell both.
 
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