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Garage Floor

NikoJan

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Jul 31, 2011
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Hey guys, I've been wanting to fix up my garage for quite some time now and I'v finally gotten around to it but I have a few questions. My garage floor is not smooth at all, nor is it tiled. It's a very rough surface and I wanted to know if I applied one of these $100 epoxy/paints to it if it would smooth over the surface? Second, my garage has never really housed any of my cars so the only stains that are visible are of old paint and general dirt. I've washed the floor with a pressure washer (1600 psi) 3 times now and applied a degreaser but the stains are still present. Should I proceed further to make sure they're gone or is it fine to just paint over them? I've done the rinse test and the water doesn't beed over the stains. And finally, the drywall on my garage doesn't extend all the way to the bottom of floor, is there a solution for this? It looks a bit like this (click here) It looks ugly with just the tiles showing.

Thanks in advance!
- Nikola
 
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chickenhauler

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I'd just put a wide piece of trim along the bottom of the drywall, then either paint or epoxy the exposed blocks.

Epoxy will fill in the dips, to an extent, but the highs will be really thin. In other words, it's still going to be really rough after. There are floor leveling products that you squeegee on the floor, but I've never used them, and have no clue if they would work well with epoxy.
 
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NikoJan

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Thats exactly what I didn't want to hear... One of the main reasons I'm painting the floor is to make it smoother. Do you know if applying a few more coats will even it out? Not sure that buying any of the leveling products would be within my budget price or time wise.
 
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NikoJan

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Jul 31, 2011
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Just looked it up and apparently I need to rent a diamond grinder to even it out? It's almost 300 to rent so that's out of the question since I'm working on remodeling the kitchen and first floor washroom. I guess I'll just apply this Behr epoxy paint and hope for the best. If anyone has any other suggestions on smoothing the floor or any general tips on applying the paint it would be greatly apprechiated!
 
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NikoJan

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Jul 31, 2011
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I'd just put a wide piece of trim along the bottom of the drywall, then either paint or epoxy the exposed blocks.

Epoxy will fill in the dips, to an extent, but the highs will be really thin. In other words, it's still going to be really rough after. There are floor leveling products that you squeegee on the floor, but I've never used them, and have no clue if they would work well with epoxy.

I forgot to ask, what do you mean by a 'piece of trip'?
 

Jack Olsen

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I don't think any over-the-counter paint or epoxy will do anything to even out that surface. You will have a nicer-looking version of that surface, though.

And since you're surface has deteriorated and exposed the rocks and gravels in the concrete, I think you'd also have a tough time getting an acceptable surface that way (although I don't have experience with diamond grinding).

Is the surface still crumbling? If you dig at it with a screwdriver, can you get it to break apart more?
 
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NikoJan

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Jul 31, 2011
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No, the floor is quite strong and it's not that old. I think the contractors just opted for a really cheap version of the floor when the house was being made, around 15 years ago.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Substrate texture will be lessened but will ultimately telegraph through the coating.
We would recommend a 100% solids coating fortified with aggregate and gauge raked over the surface or a double broadcast system. Of course, an experienced floor-man would be able to diamond grind that floor into shape.
 
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NikoJan

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Jul 31, 2011
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We would recommend a 100% solids coating fortified with aggregate and gauge raked over the surface or a double broadcast system.

Not sure what you meant by that, could you explain? Just gauge rake the second coat or use a different product?
 
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LegacyIndustrial

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Not sure what you meant by that, could you explain? Just gauge rake the second coat or use a different product?

Sorry. Either option requires a lot of material and this is not THD grade.
Double Broadcast:
Apply 100% solids epoxy receiver coat, broadcast sand to rejection
Vac off loose sand
Apply 100% solids epoxy receiver coat, broadcast sand to rejection
Vac off loose sand, lightly grind if any high spots exist.
Apply 100% solids coating, add urethane top-coat of desired.

This will add approx. 1/8" of surface over your existing floor.
 

Edger

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May 18, 2011
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What about trowelling on feather top before epoxy coating? That is a thin slurry that you trowell over the surface to smooth it out. Epoxy will definitely do little to smooth it out unless it is a very expensive self levelling epoxy.
 
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NikoJan

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Jul 31, 2011
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I think I'm just going to go ahead and go straight to painting it and hope that the rough surface isn't at the back of my mind every time I enter the garage... I'll most likely just try to add pot lights instead or maybe do a more intricate paint job. I'll keep you guys posted as I move along! Thanks for all of the help!
 

LegacyIndustrial

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What about trowelling on feather top before epoxy coating? That is a thin slurry that you trowell over the surface to smooth it out. Epoxy will definitely do little to smooth it out unless it is a very expensive self levelling epoxy.

It really needs to be gauge raked or troweled and I didn't go there as we may be out of our friend's pay grade.
 
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