Garage flooring help!

[srosa707]

Hey guys, ive floated around this site but mostly stay on the HAMB and the Jockey Journal. Heres my question. Im about to buy my first house and after renting and dealing with concrete floors, id like to lay down some epoxy flooring in my new house. What is reccomended? I weld and grind regularly when working in the garage. Will the epoxy flooring hold up to the abuse? What should i look for? What do you guys suggest for my application? The house was built in the late 80's and is your average 2 car setup. Any help is appreciated, thanks.

 

[srracer]

Unless you're grinding right on the floor, the grinding wasn't a problem for me with my earlier epoxy floor (I just finished my new floor so I haven't really tested it yet).

As for the welding, I did get burn marks on the old rustoleum epoxy floor from welding slag that ended up on the floor.. I suspect the new epoxy (Wolverine) will be similarly susceptible, but I don't know for sure. I do believe that the epoxy is better than most of the alternatives for welding, aside from maybe concrete polishing. VCT, plastic tiles (like Racedeck) will all get burned, though the Racedecks would be the easiest to replace.

For my money, I'd stick to epoxy myself, though.

-Chris

 

[srosa707]

Is the wolverine an epoxy? How long after you lay it down can you use it?

 

[AlphaGarage]

Wolverine Coatings LiquaTile 1184 is a 100% solids epoxy. Typically you can park on it in 36 hours, and it's fully cured and ready for those engine hoist steel wheels in 7 days.

As far as welding... Epoxy will stand up to welding splatter, but it all depends on how far off the floor you are and what type of welding you do. Generally if the welding takes place at least 4' from the floor you'll be okay.

 

[srosa707]

Cool, thanks guys for the help. Garage Journal always comes through when I have questions!

One more thing; where is the best place to buy the wolverine setup?

 

['the epoxy floor guy']

There are Many Choices for Garage floor coatings.

TAKE YOUR time making a decision.

Read ALL the posts. Make your decision on FACTS not hype.

100% Solids are a GREAT product but have their Downfalls as well.

Like OUTGASING? Did you know there is a way to AVOID it altogether?

Do you really NEED the "best" ?

Am I buying a "Rolls Royce" just to get my **** to work?

Before you buy Read the Popular FAQ's at my site. NOT self serving believe it or not I even recommend NOT buying my products in some cases.

Read the FAQ's and THEN if you want to buy from ANYONE. Go ahead but DO YOUR HOMEWORK FIRST.

THEN BUY.

FAQ Link HERE

 

[srosa707]

Ya, im not looking for anything real facncy. Just something that is durable and will hold up to the abuse of an "at home car builder". Is the Wolverine stuff better that U-Coat it?

 

[roger55]

Ya, im not looking for anything real facncy. Just something that is durable and will hold up to the abuse of an "at home car builder". Is the Wolverine stuff better that U-Coat it?

U-Coat-It is a water based epoxy in the neighborhood of 45 percent solids.
It is no better than the Rustoleum stuff you can get at Home Depot or Lowes but it is much more expensive. The U-Coat-It system (color and clear) is about 5 mils thick. The Wolverine system (100% solids) will be about 25 mils thick. The price for both systems is going to be pretty similar. It's a no-brainer.

 

[srosa707]

Can anyone direct me to a good place to buy the Wolverine setup? Do they have a website? I looked but couldnt find one. Thanks again fellas!

 

[roger55]

Can anyone direct me to a good place to buy the Wolverine setup? Do they have a website? I looked but couldnt find one. Thanks again fellas!

http://www.alphagarage.com

AlphaGarage is the only outlet of Wolverine products for non-industrial sales.

 

[rcleaver]

Well, if you're using welding shield(s) or blanket(s) then you don't have a problem in the first place.

That's what I do, and I have even welded in the engine bay.

Then you can use any coating you want, or none at all..