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Garage Header

RWBIL

Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2010
Messages
5
The supporting 2x4s and part of my garage door header was destroyed by termites.

The header was a 13.5" wide x 17' header that was a solid 3" piece of wood. It was supported by (3) 2x4s on each end. As you can see in the photo on the right side I replaced the damaged 2x4s with new ones, but the header is only 9.5" on that side now (the bottom 4" of the header on the right side was damaged). Being the 2x4s were completely destroyed, I wonder what was holding up the roof.

Also on the photo I show the left side which still has the full header. Unfortuneately as you can see in the photo over the garage is not the Gable end, so the header supports the roof truss which are 24" OC.

Should I replace the header and if I have to replace the header would you recommend using microlams or other option? What size and how many?

Another thought I had is just adding an additional beam for support, which would be a lot easier than replacing the old header. I could replace the supporting 2x4s with 2x6s. The 2x4s sit on a concrete footer and there is just enough space to expand it to a 2x6. Would this be O.K.. I would hav the existing header plus another beam attached to it. What would you recommend I use for the additional beam.

Difficult to sister the header. No space on the outside. But can add a beam to the inside. That way I would have the original header which is still good for 9.5" and the new beam
This is the part I was not sure about. If you lose 4" of wood on the end how it effects the rest of the header. I remember reading once if you have a 12" wide joist and cut out from the bottom 2" you weakened the whole joist to the point that you really only have a 10" joist. I was not sure if the was the case with the end being damaged on my header or not

Also I would have to build a support wall to remove the existing beam. There is sheetrock in the garage ceiling. Do I have to remove the sheetrock or can I push the wall tight against the sheetrock in order to provide support long enough to replace the header.

I bought the house this way. It was treated for termites. But I am not sure how they got in and what will stops them. The sill is PT and it sits on a concrete footer about one foot in the air. The side trim was down to the concrete and rotted. maybe that was their path.


Thanks in advance,
Robert"
 
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pattenp

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
10,175
Location
Virginia - USA
The easy thing to do would be to sister a 16" X 1 3/4" LVL beam to the existing beam pushing it all the way up to the ceiling to support the truss and then face nail one 2X4 under each end with the 2X4 laying flat to the existing studs. That should be plenty of load support to make up for the termite damaged header.
 

tcianci

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Messages
4,242
Location
Walpole, Ma
I'm probably going to get blasted by the "engineers" out there but since you asked the question wondering what was holding it up there before you repaired it... What was holding it was whatever was left of the original 2 bys and the beam and the sheathing that spans the frame under your siding. If it was my garage, I would declare victory and go home proud. If you want a quick fix that will add lots of the lost strength back to the assembly, sheath the inside of the wall with a plywood strip that runs horizontally across the face of the beam and extends across the jack studs over to the corner of the building. The plywood needs only to be 1/2 inch and it will "catch" the beam and the frame. Nail it with plenty of 8 penny nails. It will hold up fine. To answer your other question... yes you can push a beam or temporary wall up there if you decide to remove the old one providing the Sheetrock is nailed directly to the ceiling joists or if it is strapped with 1x3's you need to locate the strapping so your load path is from the temp wall, through the Sheetrock and then the strapping and then against the ceiling joists.. If you miss, you'll know in a hurry. Don't worry about compressing the Sheetrock, it won't happen...go to a supply yard or a box store and look at how Sheetrock is stored. each lift is separated by about 4 inches of Sheetrock dunnage used as spacers so that the forks of the lift truck can slip in and out. The weight of a lift of rock is much more than what you have bearing down with that roof.
 
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