Garage Heater Advice

[pearsth]

Hello -

I am looking at putting a garage heater into my garage. It is a standard, 2-car attached garage. It has bedrooms above it and the walls are insulated. I live in the suburbs near Chicago.

For reference on current level of insulation, when it is in the 30's outside, it is usually about 50 inside the garage.

When it gets way cold (in the 10's or lower), the snow/ice will still melt off the cars.

I have two approaches I am looking at, so I am looking for advice.

Option 1 - Professional install. A local installer who I know does good work (he installed AC for me last year for the house) quoted me $1550 to install a 30K btu heater. This included everything for the install. The heater is an ADP and costs about $400-500 online from what I have found, the install is over $1000.

Option 2 - Semi-professional install. I bought a Beacon Morris 45k BTU heater from Menards on sale for just under $400. My "handyman" has said it will be $500-$800 depending on how long it takes to install. So, total price will be $900-$1200. "Handyman" is in quotes because I have used this person many times, including a complete bathrooom and kitchen remodel both down to the studs with all new electric. I think he qualifies better than a basic handyman.

Questions:
Heater Size -0 I know 30K vs 45K has been discussed a lot, but curious on opinions considering how I described the garage (2 car - 8 foot cielings, seemingly well insulated). I don't want overkill, but I also don't want to skimp on BTU's, especially when less BTU's costs more in this scenario.

Venting - The professional said he was going to use a "very special/expensive" side vent heater, similar to a dryer vent, but obviously better. I went to home depot and asked and they said this simple vent ($18) was fine. They have another there that has mesh over it for about the same price, but I could not find a picture of it online.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...talogId=10053&productId=100396977&R=100396977

Anyone have another type of vent they use and recommend? Is the home depot guy right that this is the right one? The heater will be mounted at ceiling height vented to the side of the house. There are windows above on the second story about 3-5 feet left or right of the vent, so I don't see issues there. I have seen ones that look like round caps with louvers that appear "fancier" and less prone to invasion by bugs or animals. Not sure where to find them.

Electrical - Do I have to run a dedicated line to this? Considering my house is a quad level and the garage is on a slab and couldn't be farther from the circuit breaker, running a dedicated line will be a major pain. Probably have to loop one around the house. My garage is not on a dedicated circuit. It shares electric with my family room and office that are right inside of it. I don't use power tools much - I mainly work on motorcycles or my kids RC cars in the garage. My house was built in the 60's and the wiring schematic leaves much to be desired.

Thanks,

Tom

 

[brewchief]

DO NOT USE THAT VENT HOOD TO VENT A HEATER, USING THAT HOOD WOULD BE A GOOD WAY TO BURN YOUR HOUSE DOWN OR KILL EVERYONE IN IT FROM CO POISONING.

A proper clearance thimble using double wall type B vent pipe in most cases is the only way to properly sidewall vent a unit heater. On certain installs single wall stainless steel pipe along with it's listed thimble is also suitable.

 

[steve308]

Have you looked into a Mini split system. Heat and air (small heat pump) easy to wire no large ductwork --- where your air return is located may be a concern -- as it applies to the living space above --

 

[Charles (in GA)]

You cannot use an aluminum dryer vent for venting a heater exhaust.

I assume you are planning on natural gas. As Brewchief noted, you must use the proper type B vent pipe, thimbles, etc. Follow all rules about where the exhaust is to vent, with regard to the windows, etc. This is no way to play around with fire. If something happens, and you survive, your insurance will not cover an install that does not meet code. You really need to find out if inspections are required in your area for heater installs, if they are, and you don't get it inspected, a fire, CO poisoning etc could bring criminal charges. I don't like inspections, but if you are not sure of how to do it, its for your own safety.

The instructions with the Beacon Morris heater will tell you what you need in the way of exhaust venting, at a minimum.

DuraVent Class B vent system catalog, a PDF file. this is very useful info and you can get an idea of what you can use and may need.

Did you buy the Morris Beacon BRUt Garage Heater? which from Menards appears to be the LOW PROFILE UNIT.

Full load amps on the 45K model is 3.0 amps at 120V, so you should be able to use an existing circuit if it is not heavily loaded already.

Read this manual, it will detail the vent installation.....................

Link to download the manual



and Install and Operating manual and Manual for low profile model

Charles

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I have two approaches I am looking at, so I am looking for advice.

Option 1 - Professional install. A local installer who I know does good work (he installed AC for me last year for the house) quoted me $1550 to install a 30K btu heater. This included everything for the install. The heater is an ADP and costs about $400-500 online from what I have found, the install is over $1000.

Option 2 - Semi-professional install. I bought a Beacon Morris 45k BTU heater from Menards on sale for just under $400. My "handyman" has said it will be $500-$800 depending on how long it takes to install. So, total price will be $900-$1200. "Handyman" is in quotes because I have used this person many times, including a complete bathrooom and kitchen remodel both down to the studs with all new electric. I think he qualifies better than a basic handyman.

So why are you asking about the professional install of a different heater?

It sounds like the 45K will do you well in a two car with insulated building above it, but for this very reason, the install needs to be perfect, to keep from burning or gassing someone to death.

Charles

 

[RKA]

If you go the handyman route, make sure you and the handyman in question are clear on the local codes. As others have pointed out, you don't want this endangering your family or burning your house down. Don't listen to the guy in Home Depot. With a living space directly above, exhausting this might be a little problematic, unsightly, or both. Depends on how the house/garage is laid out, but this isn't a showstopper. 30K will do just fine, 45K will allow you to bring the temp up 10 mins faster if that matters much to you.

Is there a gas line running through the space or does that have to be run as well?

The mini split is an interesting option (and the one I chose) as it also gives you AC, however it is more expensive. It's not the same as a natural gas heater. I could heat my garage with a NG unit and get it from 35 degrees to 65 degrees inside 30 mins. My heat pump will take the better part of 1.5-2 hours to do this. Once the garage is up to temp, it's great at maintaining it, but large swings in temps can some time and that only gets worse as outside temps drop and the heat pump loses efficiency. Obviously what's nice is you only have to worry about an electric run, and a 3" hole in the wall to run your line sets. You do near clear space to mount the condensor unit, which can be unsightly depending on where you put it (more or less than an exhaust vent...your call). Check with your utility company, state and IRS energy tax credits for all the incentives you might qualify for with one of these. You would be surprised how much you can bring down the price. And the handyman can do most of the install, leaving 1-2 hours of work for an HVAC guy.

 

[pearsth]

Folks - Thanks for all the great replies. Sorry for my lack of responses, I setup email notifications on reply and somehow didn't get them.

Anyway, after reading through these, I have decided to go with the professional install and his heater - It is not worth $300 to do otherwise. I will get a full warranty and continue to build my relationship with a great heating/cooling company. With some changes I want to make in the future on my AC (move it to another part of the yard) and other things, I think it is a good move.

I don't like the mini split idea if it will take 1.5 - 2 hours to heat. I will want to come from work and do stuff in the garage right away. I don't want to wait to do it.

On the Mendards heater, I did buy the low profile Beacon Morris unit, but I am still within time to return it.

Thanks again for all the help!

Tom

 

[Falcon67]

Seems to me for that, you could have done as well with a 5kW electric heater and some wire for around $350. I suppose if you want it hot now, a 45K would easily run you out of there quick.

 

[pearsth]

The other purpose of the heater is to keep the garage at 40-50 in the winter no matter what. I have two bedrooms above that need space heaters to keep them warm when it gets really cold. My theory is keeping the garage warmer will negate the need for the space heaters.

Tom

 

[dave67fd]

Why can't you keep the Beacon Morris heater and have the proffessionals install it? If they refuse to install it and will only install their heater, find another HVAC company.

 

[pearsth]

With the one from the professionals, I get a 5 year parts and labor warranty. They did offer to install the Beacon Morris one, but said they would rather use they one they are confident in and will fix for 5 years if it breaks, for whatever reason.

 

[brewchief]

Why can't you keep the Beacon Morris heater and have the proffessionals install it? If they refuse to install it and will only install their heater, find another HVAC company.

Would you bring a steak to a restaurant and expect them to cook it also?

With the one from the professionals, I get a 5 year parts and labor warranty. They did offer to install the Beacon Morris one, but said they would rather use they one they are confident in and will fix for 5 years if it breaks, for whatever reason.

5 year parts and labor is worth the price difference.

There is a reason most pros won't install customer supplied equipment, ever spend hours trying to get parts warrantied on a piece of equipment you didn't make a dime on? I have, not much fun.

If I have an issue with something I sold I can go back to my supplier and they can see the date they sold it, they can deal with sending parts back for warranty and if it's a supplier that you spend tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars they have a vested interest in making things right ASAP.

 

[rocky1]

I'm just using an electric radiator heater in mine. 24x30. It has not got really cold and windy yet, but I am impressed so far. 1500 watt

 

[Hankdog1]

What worries me is space heaters in the bedroom. Throw more blankets on the bed those things aren't ment to be used in an closed up space.