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Garage Heater Gas Line Question

DJP1965

New member
Joined
Jan 29, 2009
Messages
4
I am in the process of installing a heater in my garage and I need some help with the gas line part. The gas line that feeds the house enters from the meter into one of the garage walls (finished garage wall) and then goes up into the attic space above the garage and then traverses the attic space above the garage and then into the house. This gas line is only about seven feet away from the heater. My question is how can I tap into this gas line to add a “Tee” without taking the whole line apart back to the meter where there is a "union"? Do they make a “Tee” with reverse threads on one side so I could screw a piece of pipe back in that has reverse threads on one end and start both ends at the same time or could a “union” be installed in this line alone with a “Tee”? Can a “union” be installed in an enclosed space of an attic? Sorry if these seem like basic questions but I’m new to this I do not know the do’s and don’ts of installing gas pipe. And because I’m new to this I will probably just hire a professional to do this part, but I would still like to know what the correct way is. Thanks
 
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krooser

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Joined
Jun 3, 2005
Messages
2,377
Location
Waupaca, Wisconsin
You can cut the line, rethread the new "ends" and install a T.

Flelxble gas line would make things easier to install from the T to the heater. And pressure valve will need to be added to drop the gas pressure to the heater.
 
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DJP1965

New member
Joined
Jan 29, 2009
Messages
4
I’m new to this and maybe I’m missing something here or maybe I did not describe my current gas line run well enough but I still don’t get how this can be done the way you describe it to be. The pipe run I described before comes up in the wall of the garage to a 90 degree elbow and then runs across the garage attic and then comes to another 90 degree elbow and then the pipe run goes into the house.. You say I can cut the line and then thread both the new ends and then install a “T”.
I can cut the line and thread both new ends with regular right hand threads and then screw in a “T” on one of the pipes but when I go to screw in the second pipe won’t it unscrew it from the 90 degree elbow it is currently in?
 
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kbs2244

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Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
Threaded pipe is a rea PIA to break into.
Yes, you can do what you describe.
But I would hire a pro to do it.
Gas lines are not high pressure but you cannot use water grade unions in them.
A pro will have acess to the right supplies and equipment to do it right.
The big possible danger is that a gas leak in an attic can go un-noticed for a real long time and build up a real load of gas.
If it isn,'t already well vented, this would be a good reason to do it.
 

redsky49

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 21, 2009
Messages
582
Location
near the coast in eastern North Carolina
Threaded pipe is a rea PIA to break into.
Yes, you can do what you describe.
But I would hire a pro to do it.
Gas lines are not high pressure but you cannot use water grade unions in them.
A pro will have access to the right supplies and equipment to do it right.
The big possible danger is that a gas leak in an attic can go un-noticed for a real long time and build up a real load of gas.
If it isn,'t already well vented, this would be a good reason to do it.
+1
Hire an experienced pipe fitter. You will spend far more buying the proper tools, running around for parts, etc. Worth the peace of mind. Show the installer the installation manual for your heater so he can install the proper gas train for you.
 

therealjakeg

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2008
Messages
202
Location
AZ
I work for a gas company. Best is to cut it up top in the attic and put in a "t" then use CSST Corrugated stainless steel tubing... which is flexible, then run that to your heater. Its the same as steel pipe but flexible. make sure you run a steel fitting out of your heater and make sure the CSST is secured to a wall or a fixture then use a standard flex connector between the CSST and the appliance. Call a plumber if you dont think you can do it. Gas is nothing you want leaking. Also anything over three feet to code will need an inspection...pressure test and a clearance tag. Enjoy.
 
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