Garage Heating in Calgary, Canada

[Ak Jim]

I can understand the rules that limit total percentage of lot size but why do they care or what is the stated reason that 800sqft is the max garage size? Do they also say that a kitchen has to be under a certain size, or maximum number of bathrooms. Imagine if they had a regulation that you were only allowed one bathroom per house.

 

[Harryn]

The 800SF max size is a bylaw with no reasoning given. You ask about that 800 sf and no one seems to know why 800 sf. I think it has something to do with densification and trying to limit urban sprawl. Kind of counter intuitive to the 45% site coverage rule. But like I stated you can get a relaxation on these with a development permit like I did. Another odd building restriction here in Calgary for a garage is the interior celling height Floor to the bottom of the truss is restricted to an odd 9'10"...

 

[Harryn]

Heat pumps aren't popular there because of the price of electricity compared to nat gas.

A good friend of mine is successfully using one to heat and cool a garage near Winnipeg.
Winters in Wpg are quite a bit colder than Calgary, but nat gas is more expensive around here, compared to electricity.
Plus our summers are hot and humid so AC is almost essential.
Like others have said, choose carefully if you do a heat pump, as not all of them work well in the cold.
The old R-22 systems didn't produce much heat in the colder weather, giving heat pumps in general a bad name.

Agreed that the cost of electricity makes it somewhat cost prohibitive. From what I understand the colder the outside ambient temperature the harder the heat pump system has to work. So when you might need it most it is has to work the hardest. Technology may have improved these but I will stick with what has worked for years. My opinion and choice

 

[Fav Onefour]

Do it right, do it once.
I'm in MN and winter is winter.
Insulate under floor and run radiant in the slab. With that system in place, you just need to choose whatever heat source you like. I'd also plan on water mitigation while you're doing the slab. Without floor drains, the snowmelt builds up quite the humidity. It isn't good for a workshop.
Use good doors and insulate properly. It won't take much to heat.
One disadvantage of slab insulation is how well it isolates ground temp in summer. The vehicles will heat up the space when you bring them in warm. Plan for passive ventilation in summer.

 

[pcmeiners]

Look at Fujitsu low temp high efficiency units , they go to -17 F and still produce the rated output.

https://hvacdirect.com/media/pdf/Fujitsu%20LZAS%20Design%20and%20Technical.pdf

Study of Fujitsu and Mitsubishi low temp units (Fujitsu has better ratings)

https://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy11osti/52175.pdf

"One disadvantage of slab insulation is how well it isolates ground temp in summer. The vehicles will heat up the space when you bring them in warm. Plan for passive ventilation in summer."

Are you trying to make a problem out of something that does not exist?

 

[iadr]

"One disadvantage of slab insulation is how well it isolates ground temp in summer. The vehicles will heat up the space when you bring them in warm. Plan for passive ventilation in summer."

Are you trying to make a problem out of something that does not exist?

Not sure your tone is helpful.

In my garage about 3h north of the OP, the floor stays cool, if not near cold, all summer- eg end of August. While I have yet to experience a concrete floor that didn't feel cool, it's simple thermal physics that a direct slab in contact with the ground remains a greater heatsink in summer, than one which has its thermal contact broken by insulation...so it's undeniable there are gradients of how cool the concrete will be. Very possible that matters. I don't have numbers for by how much, but I'd be surprised if you do either.

 

[digitsondata]

I have a smaller garage, 20x20 and opted for a Reznor 30k BTU forced air. It never warms the floor but brings to temp quickly and is hardly noticed on the utility bills. If I had to do it again I would do in-floor hydronic and a mini-split for cooling in the summer. As mentioned previously, hydronic would be best if left at a set temp as will take many hours to bring up to temp but would be the most comfortable. Moisture management becomes an issue and having exhaust ventilation to remove moisture from snow melt in the winter would be needed. Under slab insulation would also be needed so this would be highest initial investment but most comfortable and likely cheapest to run if staying at a set temp is desired.

 

[yyc_ranger_4x4]

I'm in SE Calgary, I'm putting up a 45k BTU Natural Gas Heater. I've invested in good Roxul insulation with 2x6 walls, and will be blowing in some deep insulation for the attic space. The garage will be sealed very well with heavy poly, and the doors and windows are decent units, with attention to detail on the sealing of the overhead door.

I've got an exhaust fan setup that will pull fresh air inside when it's running, but I'm only planning on using it if/when needed (welding, painting, etc).

Neighbor has a mini-split, it can't keep up when it's cold.....however it does keep his garage cooler during the summer. I'll stick to my natural gas heater, I'd rather have warmth in the cold when I want it...I can run a fan in the summer.

 

[PoorUB]

Neighbor has a mini-split, it can't keep up when it's cold.....however it does keep his garage cooler during the summer. I'll stick to my natural gas heater, I'd rather have warmth in the cold when I want it...I can run a fan in the summer.

He bought the wrong mini split.