Garage height...12 or 14?

[Ron_J]

I was reading the thread about height, and have been wondering about mine.

I'm on the contractors list for sometime next month, and I initially told him I wanted 12' ceiling. After I thought about it, I wonder if I should have told him 14'. The only reason I have is that I'm planning on a small loft for storage. At 12', I can make a 7' ceiling above a workbench area and still have about 4'+ for a loft. Not ideal, but would be fine for accessing totes once or twice a year.

Anyone have any reasons NOT to go with a higher ceiling?

 

[zmotorsports]

I had 14' ceiling in my last shop and it worked perfectly for my 2-post lift. Never had any plans for a loft though.

In my new/current shop I went 16' tall for two reasons. First I wanted enough height above my coach in the RV storage bay and by going the same 16' ceiling in the shop it kept the roof line even across the entire building. This will also allow me to put in a mezzanine above my machining area later down the road if I ever decide I need it and it will be tall enough to be able to walk upright.

 

[Chevy-SS]

This is a no-brainer, a true 100% no-brainer...... go 14'...............

 

[thickhead]

...Anyone have any reasons NOT to go with a higher ceiling?

Reasons that could be minor or major depending on your wants/needs:
-additional building cost
-outside appearance of building matching surroundings
-heating/cooling costs
-are you going to have vehicle lift
-could you go bigger instead of taller for same money
-could you make it nicer instead of taller for same money

 

[AngryBeaver]

if you need a lift, go taller. I have no regrets on my 13'10" finished garage

 

[Ron_J]

I am putting a lift in, but the lift I had looked at worked in a 12'.

I'll have to ask about cost difference and go from there.

I figured the heating and lighting would be a little more, not to mention the insulation and wall material.

 

[zmotorsports]

I am putting a lift in, but the lift I had looked at worked in a 12'.

I'll have to ask about cost difference and go from there.

I figured the heating and lighting would be a little more, not to mention the insulation and wall material.

It will be a bit more but very negligible. The footprint itself adds more cost than vertically by a couple of feet.

 

[FJ 432]

I did 14. I wish I had done 16 for a loft. My .02.

 

[thickhead]

I am putting a lift in, but the lift I had looked at worked in a 12'.

I'll have to ask about cost difference and go from there...

If the cost isn’t a problem, I would go with the 14’ and get the taller lift. If I could raise my 4 post another 4-6” without the top car touching the ceiling I would never bang my head again walking through the garage!

 

[BigBronco]

14' for sure. If you need aloft, make it 16'

 

[yeldogt]

What type of building ?

I always build with some form of cathedral (full or partial) -- If you build 10' walls w/ steep roof the height is way above 12' 4' out.

How/ where is the lift going in the building?

IMO -- the best bang for storage is using rubbermaid type totes. In my case you need about 8' high and a 3' shelf for the large ones to fit (there is a space behind on the big ones because they hit the ceiling). It all depends on what you want to store. I find it's best to have many totes -- or boxes vs larger as they get too heavy

 

[sz0k30]

I am putting a lift in, but the lift I had looked at worked in a 12'.

I have 12' walls. The top of my 2 post lift is 12'3".

Luckily it sits and fits between the trusses rather than perpendicular.

 

[ddawg16]

What are the outside dimensions?

 

[nadogail]

I have never known of a person regretting excessive headroom.

But, then again I am not trying to heat your shop in the winter.

 

[b-boy]

I'd go 14'.

I went 12' and I regret it.

I built a large storage loft. The extra 2' would be great. Now I have to of hunch over when I'm walking around up there.

 

[Fasthotrod]

I went with 14' walls and 4/12 pitch open span ceiling. The only thing that I would call 'bad' about it is that I had to rent a lift to install the lighting.

My office area has 8' interior walls, and I built the office ceiling/mezzanine using 2x12's for added strength for weight above the office. I originally thought to use it for storage, but my buddy thinks that I need to make that the upstairs bar area.

My lift is rated for 10k lbs and is extra wide/extra tall for bigger vehicles. It allows me to walk under the vehicles without banging my head, and I'm 6'1" tall.

The industrial shelving holds a bunch of weight, and the extra space up top is nice for storing stuff and not banging my head on the ceiling. (I'm still moving stuff over from the small shelves and organizing things, so please excuse the mess.)

If I had to do it all over again, I'd go a bit bigger than 40x50, but so far it's been great.

Mark

 

[Shovelhead]

Fasthotrod >>>> Very nice.

What's the foot print of the "office" and stairs. Distance from the end wall to the foot of the stairs?

Got anymore photos of constructing that area?

Thanks

 

[dcg9381]

16' eve for me, allows 14' doors (drive in anything).
16' eve height allows for enough room to stand if you do two floors....

 

[Ron_J]

Buy the height you need for your lift and to work comfortably. If you need storage, use attic trusses in the back to create the storage space up above.

I had originally asked them about using the attic trusses and they said that it would be cheaper to add to the overall size of the building. I might go back to him about using the attic trusses over the last 8 or 10'.

What type of building ?

I always build with some form of cathedral (full or partial) -- If you build 10' walls w/ steep roof the height is way above 12' 4' out.

How/ where is the lift going in the building?

IMO -- the best bang for storage is using rubbermaid type totes. In my case you need about 8' high and a 3' shelf for the large ones to fit (there is a space behind on the big ones because they hit the ceiling). It all depends on what you want to store. I find it's best to have many totes -- or boxes vs larger as they get too heavy

It's a 30x50 pole building with 2 10x10 doors on the end, with the lift at one door. I will be parking my truck on the side with the lift, with the lift situated so the post will be around the front tires. It's not a daily driver, so I'm not too worried about that area.

What are the outside dimensions?

30x50.

 

[larry_g]

I have a 14'wall, 12' doors, and 100" ceiling in the machine shop. I don't have a lift but if I did it would rise between the trusses. Shop is linked below.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[rsanter]

I would get the price difference for going to 14' and for 16' and then go from there

 

[Steevo]

I built at 12' with 10' door and have been kicking myself for ten years now for not going 14' with 12' high door.

 

[karfever]

I went with 12ft walls and scissor truss on a 6;12 pitch. Hope it works well for me!

 

[Fasthotrod]

Fasthotrod >>>> Very nice.

What's the foot print of the "office" and stairs. Distance from the end wall to the foot of the stairs?

Got anymore photos of constructing that area?

Thanks

Footprint is about 16' x 20' including the stairs. Stairs are about 3' wide, as is the 1/2 bath/closet/shop sink areas. So subtract the 6' plus three wall thicknesses and the office is about 16' x 13' I'd guess? The attached drawing was one I used to layout the plumbing locations during the concrete pour, and the other two are layout diagrams for the studs, electrical panel, meter/main panel, etc... The stringers for the stairs were a rise of 109.5" and a run of 143.5" with about a 3'x4' platform up at the top.

I've got a metric **** ton of pictures during construction. I'll throw a few out there for you to check out.

Mark

 

[Fasthotrod]

Here's a few more for you.

Mark

 

[Innovate1]

I went with 14' walls with a 12' door. Ceiling is actually at 14'8" because the foundation is 8" above the floor. I may get an RV but not a huge one so thought this was enough - time will tell - not finished yet. I plan a small 8 x 8 floor above the half bath and shop sink. Ceiling there at 7'6" and about 7" for floor leaves 6'7" above. Me being 6'1" that is enough to not have to bend over but if it was for regular use a bit more might be nice.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Check with local building codes if they apply. I was only allowed 13’ to the peak. The larger the garage the shallower the slope. Mind you you don’t have to deal with snow load in Calif. One reason I went with a flat roof to maximize useable ceiling height.

 

[Theruse]

It's not clear if you are talking about a detached garage or not. If detached and you have a pitched roof or scissor trusses then height should not be an issue. If a flat roof I would go with 14' but concerned about the outside aesthetic. A 14' ceiling (or outside wall) with a regular height garage door look disproportionate.

 

[johnnyradiant]

The only reasons to not go 14' or even higher:

1.a. Building code for your building on your lot doesn't allow it

1.b. Building owner's other half won't allow it AND knows the difference between 12 and 14' right off the hop, AND will be on site to stop it before 'you're committed now'.

2. (about a mile down the list) You personally can't live with the esthetics of a 14' or taller structure when viewed from the outside.
3. (right next to 2) You need your head examined if 2 is really a thing.

Costs have no bearing on this exhaustive list.

 

[dschmit]

Another vote for 14'. I went 12-6. I have a 2 post and a four post with plenty of height for my cars, taller vehicles may be different. I was looking at the heating/cooling cost and the extra materials. After it is all said and done I would go 14 next time.

 

[macperspectives]

The higher the better, go with 14

 

[u2slow]

Build to the max height the bylaws allow.

The rules will only get more restrictive...

 

[Shovelhead]

Footprint is about 16' x 20' including the stairs. Stairs are about 3' wide, as is the 1/2 bath/closet/shop sink areas. So subtract the 6' plus three wall thicknesses and the office is about 16' x 13' I'd guess? The attached drawing was one I used to layout the plumbing locations during the concrete pour, and the other two are layout diagrams for the studs, electrical panel, meter/main panel, etc... The stringers for the stairs were a rise of 109.5" and a run of 143.5" with about a 3'x4' platform up at the top.

I've got a metric **** ton of pictures during construction. I'll throw a few out there for you to check out.

Mark

Man I appreciate it. Certainly looks like it was done "right".