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Garage Improvement Plans

joking777

Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2006
Messages
7
I bought a house on 7 1/2 acres two years ago and have been working on the house, but as you can see from the picture below the detached block garage needs some attention. Since I follow this board quite a bit, I thought I would share what I was planning on doing. Feel free to comment.

For a little background, the building was constructed to store an RV (thus the 10' ceilings and the barn doors). At some point the RV must have outgrown the garage so one of those RV storage tents was constructed in front of the garage (you can see the back edge of it at the left side of the picture) and the garage was converted to a pretty enormous model train setup (notice the covered window and the blue walls with mountains painted on them). The barn doors were sealed closed and the tree roots from a nearby tree grew under the front edge of the slab and lifted the slab about an inch so the doors couldn't be opened. The guy that owned the house before me took a chainsaw and cut off the bottom 8 inches of the doors. And this is where I inherited it.

Structure
The garage is built out of 6" block on a concrete footer and has a 4" slab that is in good condition except for the front 4' which is lifted up by the root. I plan on cutting the slab back and repouring that section or grinding down the area, but grinding down a 16' x 4' area sounds less appealing than just taking it out. Since the roof and soffiting needs to be replaced anyway, I plan on using attic trusses to give myself some additional storage. The garage will match the house with a stone water table and Hardiplank siding above, but probably in the short term I will concentrate on the inside since the block is in good shape. I plan on putting dormers on the North-East side to catch the morning sun and I am looking into putting solar panels on the South-West side of the roof.

Plumbing
Currently there is no plumbing in the building. It is about 100 yards from the well and about 125 yards from the house. I don't have any plans currently to have any plumbing since it would be cost prohibitive to connect the septic which is more than 150 yards away.

Electric
There is 200 amp service from a transformer between the house and garage so I should be set power-wise. Currently there are six fluorescent fixtures on the ceiling, exterior lights on the front and back of the building, and four power outlets along each wall about 4' off the floor. It is a professional looking job with everything run through conduit so I plan on keeping what is there unless there is a need for additional circuits.

HVAC
I would like to eventually heat and cool the upstairs area so I imaging that an heat pump might fit nicely in the corner behind the stairs on the attic level. There have only been a couple of times I wish I had heat in the winter time so I will probably consider something for the garage area in the future, but with 10' ceilings I don't think I should have an issue with a ceiling mounted fixture.

Hopefully I will be able to get something started in the next couple of months so I will post back when I make some progress on things.
 

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JeffD

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Apr 30, 2008
Messages
17
Are you replacing the entire roof trusses? It will look nice when done. Good luck with the project, and keep us posted.

Jeff
 
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joking777

Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2006
Messages
7
Are you replacing the entire roof trusses? It will look nice when done. Good luck with the project, and keep us posted.

Jeff

Yes, the shingles, roof sheathing and soffiting are so far gone they need to be replaced. I got a quote for $3600 for the attic trusses which seems like a relatively inexpensive way to get some more space since I already have to spend money on the rest of the repair.
 

JeffD

Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2008
Messages
17
Attic trusses are the only way to go IMO if you have the length, and roof pitch. Lots of extra space, for relativly cheap. We are using them on our new house, above the garage, and will get a exta 600sf of storage.
 

kbs2244

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Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
You don’t plan on going from the garage to the attic very often?
The stair layout just seems awkward to me.
The way you have it you will certainly need a trap door and hoist arrangement to get large stuff up and down.
 

Kevin54

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Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
The "L" shape of the stairs is a nice design but you are really sucking up floorspace. By looking at the topview of your layout it takes up quite a bit of room. I would alter the design and put a straight run of stairs at the back of the garage in line with the man door. And then if you want to "L" off put the landing up at the top and then come off of that. Basically reverse your landing. You may have to adjust trusses to compensate though. With the stairs the way they are now looks to basically take up a fifth of your floorspace.
 
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joking777

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Joined
Aug 28, 2006
Messages
7
While the layout isn't ideal, to make the stairs work with the attic trusses and minimize the stick framing, I have to come up opposite of one of the dormers. Outside stairs are not really an option for maintenance and aesthetic reasons.

I've had the same question about the 4" block and the answer I am working with now is that as long as it is reinforced that it should work. If in the end that doesn't work out, I plan on taking it down to within a couple feet of the ground and then framing on top of it.
 

boiler7904

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Apr 4, 2006
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3,414
Location
NW IN
4" block probably get approved by the building department. It's typically only used for interior partitions that aren't load bearing.
 
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joking777

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Joined
Aug 28, 2006
Messages
7
I guess my tape measure stretched a little. I rechecked the block dimensions and found that they are 6" not 4" block.

I ran my plans by the code reviewer at the county office and got a verbal ok on the ability to use the attic trusses on top of the existing structure so it looks like it is time to finalize the drawings.
 
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