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garage insulation

papawfalcon

Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2011
Messages
19
I have a stick built 24x24 garage. No coverings on the walls Just 2x4's
no celing.I want to insulate my first question is in what I have read here the rafter are insulated over putting in a celing and venting the roof. Why and what is the pros and cons of both.I need cheep and easy. Is drywall and blown in idea for the side walls.Or is the pole bar wrap cost afective and cheaper after the time factor.? Thanks for any and all help Ken.
 
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nwav8tor

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Joined
Feb 21, 2012
Messages
239
Location
Spokane, WA
I have a stick built 24x24 garage. No coverings on the walls Just 2x4's
no celing.I want to insulate my first question is in what I have read here the rafter are insulated over putting in a celing and venting the roof. Why and what is the pros and cons of both.I need cheep and easy. Is drywall and blown in idea for the side walls.Or is the pole bar wrap cost afective and cheaper after the time factor.? Thanks for any and all help Ken.

Are you insulating for heating, cooling or both?

Your question(s) regarding "... the rafter are insulated over putting in a ceiling and venting the roof" is not clear to me. If your design has vaulted ceilings or you want to be able to actually use the attic space (2nd floor or storage), then I think you'd need to insulate the interior roof deck most likely with rigid foam board and the appropriate air gap or spray foam. Otherwise, just insulate above the ceiling using either batt or blown-in insulation.

If the interior walls and ceiling (sheetrock, osb, plywood, etc) are not installed yet, adding a vapor barrier first helps control moisture from saturating the insulation on the cool side of the barrier.

If your interior walls are not up yet, use batt insulation or spray foam before putting in the walls. I think it'd be easier then using blow in insulation which requires some retention barrier to contain the blow-in before the walls are attached. All three of those methods are WAY easier than blowing-in insulation after the interior walls are up which requires boring access holes in each and every stud bay for the blow-in applicator hose. (I am facing this dilemma since my interior sheetrock walls are already installed.)

Not an expert but I still hope this helps...

Paul

Paul
 
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papawfalcon

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Joined
Oct 18, 2011
Messages
19
Thanks Paul, I insulating for hear and air. I don't care about the attic may be used for light storage and don't need the height.No sheetrock or plywood on walls. So I guess I'll treat it like I did when I insulated my house as far as wall and ceiling and used batt not blowed in because no sheetrock.I'm not an expert either. This just conferms my thoughts better. Thans so much, Ken
 

nwav8tor

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Feb 21, 2012
Messages
239
Location
Spokane, WA
Ken,

Just make sure you have provisions for venting the attic sufficiently using plenty of soffit vents and either ridge venting, gable vents or roof vents.

Paul
 
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papawfalcon

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Oct 18, 2011
Messages
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How well I know about ventilation. The new roof on my was looking like a washboard. Come to find out the rafter on my house were cut with a birds mouth and the soffit has a ONE inch at best gap for ventilation to my ridge vent. You never know what you get on a house over 100 years old.Thanks Ken
 

Falcon67

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Joined
Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
My old shop had just kraft back R-13 insulation (23" x 3 1/2") between the joists, 24" on center. I just put up some 1x2 strapping every so often to hold it up. Worked fine. Same on the walls.
 
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papawfalcon

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Oct 18, 2011
Messages
19
Thanks Falcon67, That like what I want to do get insulated simply and for now cool it of and heat in winter. Can not get any work done on the Ranchero so got to fix the garage!
 
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