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Garage layout plan - opinions welcome

SB440R/T

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So this is how I think the garage should be laid out. The pad is so if I get a triumph or maxjax I can plug it in the ceiling and leave the left arm permanently. The right arm will be moved as needed. The pad area leaves me some wiggle room on where to put the lift, open to suggestions on if that should be moved. I would do the whole garage, but I am paying for the extra concrete. The rest of the pad will be 4"

I know I could use more lighting, but its a compromise right now because I have to pay out of pocket for the lights and the install above the basic stuff since I never told the builder I was going to go crazy on the garage.

Airlines will be the Rapid Air masterkit, just two ports, I tend to only use air when I an doing big jobs, which is not often.

Updated picture

Garage%20Layout_zpszynnxg49.jpg
 
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larry_g

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I would want an air port between the doors near the 50 amp plug. You may need air outside in the driveway. I would also not have lights above the parking bays, off set them to the side a bit so the light gets between the vehicles. You may have this it's hard to tell.

lg
no neat sigline
 
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SB440R/T

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I would want an air port between the doors near the 50 amp plug. You may need air outside in the driveway. I would also not have lights above the parking bays, off set them to the side a bit so the light gets between the vehicles. You may have this it's hard to tell.

lg
no neat sigline

Yea, I put the airline on the right side up close to the front in case I need air up that way. I changed up the lights. Does the layout of the pad look ok? I have a Dakota, a Tacoma and a golf. The trucks would be lifted more toward the front so I moved the pad up a couple feet.

I adjusted the layout of the lights.

Updated the picture in the first post.
 
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SB440R/T

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Should I switch the 50amp to the other side by the airline? I was thinking I could put a drill press or band saw in that middle area since its so wide.
 

OldracerJones

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I will answer by highlighting what I did to my 30 X 50 ft shop that if I was to do it again, I would fix.
1. More outlets. 120 and 240. I have 120 about every six feet but still find regularly that I need more. Do you have the right amount? Maybe, but you will always need more.
2. I have six air drops, between the doors reel and back wall feel plus four spread through the shop. I should have put one in the front and back, outside. May still add those later.
3. I spent a long time researching this site for lights. How many, how bright, etc. I am happy with mine but could always use more. Make sure you have lights over your benches and where you will be under the hood.
4. Should have dropped an overhead line for the lift. Looks like you did this.
5. Make sure you put a drop in for cable and/or Internet, you will need it.
6. If it is a metal building, make sure you address antennas for radio and cell phone boosters for the inside of the shop.
7. Finally, make sure your measurements are accurate. Nothing worse than planning to fit something and find out you measured wrong on your plans.

Good luck.
 
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SB440R/T

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Thanks Old racer Jones, I have never complained when being in a regular box home garage, so everything going in is already overkill for me. I don't own a welder, drill press, band saw or anything. I have a 30 gallon compressor now, but I just my electric tools quite a bit more than the air.

This is the garage portion of the home build as it sits as of Wednesday.

13669619_10207780219517804_6200941597260957241_n_zpsr2j2ea8j.jpg
 
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ZRX61

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Needs a air line outlet between the garage doors.. & plumb it to have inside & external coupling by drilling a hole through the wall. Ditto with 110v/20a outlets.

Water?
 
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astroracer

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You don't need the pad area. Most any consumer sized lift can be put on 3500psi 4" concrete. Look at a few that you are thinking about and check out the requirements. My 9K 2 post has been on just that for 6 years with no issues. :)
Mark
 
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SB440R/T

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Needs a air line outlet between the garage doors.. & plumb it to have inside & external coupling by drilling a hole through the wall. Ditto with 110v/20a outlets.

Water?

Yes it is getting a small utility sink in the Upper left corner.
 
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SB440R/T

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You don't need the pad area. Most any consumer sized lift can be put on 3500psi 4" concrete. Look at a few that you are thinking about and check out the requirements. My 9K 2 post has been on just that for 6 years with no issues. :)
Mark

Yea, I am just being more safe than sorry if the contractor goes to thin in some spots.
 

2CWG

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One thing I've seen mentioned several times on the forums is separation of the various circuits (not running all the outlets or lights on the same circuit). Minimum of two for the overhead lights and two/three for the 110/20 outlets, for example. Ran into this issue in my own garage while trying to run a several high-draw devices at the same time (there's one circuit covering the whole garage).

- 110/20 in the ceiling for reel?
- Air port in the ceiling for reel?
- Water lines?
- Cat5e/6 runs (solid, not stranded) for PoE security cameras in addition to the run for the WAP/gateway. I'd run at least one inside the shop and a couple to monitor the outside entrances/windows. Run 'em all back to a central box where you can tie in a switch and connect to your main run to the house. You'll need 110/20 at that location as well. Don't have to hook up boxes or punchdown anything at this point, just consider the layout and pull the cable in the places it would be hardest to run at a later date
 
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James-W

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Yea, I am just being more safe than sorry if the contractor goes to thin in some spots.
I agree wholeheartedly. While 4 inches of concrete may be OK for the lift, having concrete thicker than you need will not hurt anything, but having too little concrete can potentially be a very big problem. Besides that, it will be a minimal cost for the extra concrete so why not splurge and get the extra concrete?
 
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SB440R/T

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I agree wholeheartedly. While 4 inches of concrete may be OK for the lift, having concrete thicker than you need will not hurt anything, but having too little concrete can potentially be a very big problem. Besides that, it will be a minimal cost for the extra concrete so why not splurge and get the extra concrete?

Yea, I have seen to many post on here about lift installs where the concrete was thinner than what they thought, I would for that to happen. Easy to do it right now.
 
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SB440R/T

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Thoughts on cost to add all this stuff? This is what the builder just sent me.

To wire the garage like you want is an additional $1600.00. That also includes a 400amp service for the house so you can add on later.

Taking off one 220 would only reduce it 125 dollars.

Also, do I need three or four prong plugs for the 50 amp 220(welder) and the regular 30amp 220(compressor)?
 

03ranger

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You don’t show any work benches or machinery (ie: drill press, lathes, grinders, or other equipment. In my garage I have double duplex outlets (20 amp circuits only, no 15 amp circuits) every eight feet and sometimes I still need to run extension cords for portable equipment.

I would recommend changing any duplex outlets to double duplex outlets. Also you don’t show any specific lighting for work benches or equipment, are you going to have work benches and lighting for the specific area’s?

When laying out the electrical circuits, take into account power draw on each outlet. In my situation there are two circuits in each double duplex box. And no more the six outlets total per circuit. Overkill, maybe. However in my shop I have three bench grinders, two bench drill presses, milling machine and metal lath all that are 115v and a welder and air compress that are 230v, plus portable equipment.
 
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SB440R/T

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You don’t show any work benches or machinery (ie: drill press, lathes, grinders, or other equipment. In my garage I have double duplex outlets (20 amp circuits only, no 15 amp circuits) every eight feet and sometimes I still need to run extension cords for portable equipment.

I would recommend changing any duplex outlets to double duplex outlets. Also you don’t show any specific lighting for work benches or equipment, are you going to have work benches and lighting for the specific area’s?

When laying out the electrical circuits, take into account power draw on each outlet. In my situation there are two circuits in each double duplex box. And no more the six outlets total per circuit. Overkill, maybe. However in my shop I have three bench grinders, two bench drill presses, milling machine and metal lath all that are 115v and a welder and air compress that are 230v, plus portable equipment.

Thanks Ranger. The only thing I own right now is a 3hp 30 gallon compressor. I plan to buy a mig welder in the next couple years and a small bench drill press. Other things I might get is a miter saw and a band saw. I doubt this garage will ever see anything above that. What I have should meet those requirements right?

I plan on having my boxes on the back wall with a work bench/table and the storage on the right wall.

What style plugs should the outlets for the 220 be? Should it be 220 or 240v?
 

Movover

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A couple of switched outlets on the ceiling for fans, you would be surprised how much of a difference a ceiling fan can make with heating or cooling in moving the air around
 
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