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Garage loft Ceiling options- sheetrock alternatives?

hellspcangel911

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Jan 3, 2010
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245
Hi All,
In the process of creating an office/ guest room on the mezzanine of the workshop and need some suggestions. The office will take up more than half of the mezz, approximately 22'X26' with a ceiling that slopes from 8' to 14'. Currently the build is insulated but I'll be framing out the office with 2"x4" lumber, there will only be one wall common with an exterior wall (that has the windows and the patio slider). My plan is to build the room independently of the structure and create a expansion joint between the 2x4 wall and the exterior wall- hopefully to limit any movement between the steel structure and the wooden framed inner office buildout.
I am planning to insulate all the walls and floor with fiberglas batts, sheetrock the walls but that leaves me with what to do with the ceiling.
Since the office is just one large un partitioned room, I'll have to fur out off the the rafters/purlins for whatever the ceiling finish will be. I dont want to do sheetrock because I'm nervous it wont handle expansion well and the weight of it. For asthetic reasons I dont want to do PBR panels.

I've looked at Trusscore as one alternative as its light weight and easy to clean, would handle any condensation that might form on the trusses as seen here:
Honestly I done love the plastic look for on such a large surface.

Another option is a Barristol style ceiling, stretched vinyl. This would handle any potential movement well, and not require any overhead support as the tracks are mounted to the top edges of the perimeter walls.
Unfortunately, I havent been able to find any detailed information on it or even a suitable contractor in my area. It seem simple but Im sure to make it look good you need experience.

I briefly looked into dropped ceiling tiles, but with the slope I think it wont look good and will be a pain to install. Plus I would still want to insulate the ceiling.

Anyone have any other creative ideas?
 

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Superbowl

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Sheetrock will be your cheapest option and it should be fine. I have seen it used in lots of questionable places with few issues. What is the worst that could happen, a few small cracks you repair years down the road?

Stained wood strips look great but are a lot more money. However, they could always be added later on top of the dryall.
 

bob smith1

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If the pic is your space, can you provide a better one? More, was this space actually engineered for the mezzanine? It matters a LOT! Floor load into columns, foundation, roof deflection, etc.

But the bracing in that space alone tells me this ain't no DIY build. That is proper. But I think sheetrock is off your christmas list. Likely too much deflection and not worth chasing.
 
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hellspcangel911

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Sorry for the poor photo, heres some other ones I dug up.
Those rafters are 16" with 6" purlins. The floor is made of 9" Zees under 16" OC. The Mezz is engineered for 70psf with the current OSB. While I can put the weight up there, Sheetrock is very heavy, probably the heaviest option, plus labor intensive both for the framing and finishing.
PBR and 5Vee panels wont match the style of the structure. I have some White PBR for the garage portion but I want the office to look more "homey".
While wood is an option, given the size of the space I would rather not. Sheetrock is great because of the large form factor, throw up a sheet and you've just done 32sqft.. Ive considered a plywood sheet but then I still have weight and concern of moisture from the steel sweating in the winter.
Surely there must be some type of plastic paneling system out there?

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bob smith1

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Appears to be one of those light gauge bolt together buildings, but if you got the mezz engineered, the floor should work. As for the roof, who knows! But that could be a call to the OEM to ask what "deflection criteria the roof is designed for". You need L/240 to be happy with drywall. However, one look and you will have drama with that.

I personally recommend you spend time looking at thin paneling options. It's extremely light, flexible, and you're likely not getting a residential home type ceiling without serious work because that building was never intended for that.
 
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hellspcangel911

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Appears to be one of those light gauge bolt together buildings, but if you got the mezz engineered, the floor should work. As for the roof, who knows! But that could be a call to the OEM to ask what "deflection criteria the roof is designed for". You need L/240 to be happy with drywall. However, one look and you will have drama with that.

I personally recommend you spend time looking at thin paneling options. It's extremely light, flexible, and you're likely not getting a residential home type ceiling without serious work because that building was never intended for that.
Getting any answers from the manufacturer now more trouble than its worth. I do agree finding thin paneling options is the best route and thats what I was hoping to find suggestions and examples here.
 

bob smith1

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Getting any answers from the manufacturer now more trouble than its worth. I do agree finding thin paneling options is the best route and thats what I was hoping to find suggestions and examples here.
Box store shopping is a thing. Any form of steel corrugated panels will need to be flat, true, and square. Also will be loud. You can also do ledger build ups on the purlins and do a shiplap type ceiling. It's tongue/groove type, but more labor.


Personally, that detail should have been in the mind from the start, but I get where people don't 'see it' until built.

Another issue you need to prepare for is air voids above ceiling, and vapor barriers. That can really cause drama. Open air spaces up there is a no-no unless you purposely design with no air proofing at the ceiling plane. Other reality is filling it all with fiberglass.
 
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hellspcangel911

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Box store shopping is a thing. Any form of steel corrugated panels will need to be flat, true, and square. Also will be loud. You can also do ledger build ups on the purlins and do a shiplap type ceiling. It's tongue/groove type, but more labor.


Personally, that detail should have been in the mind from the start, but I get where people don't 'see it' until built.

Another issue you need to prepare for is air voids above ceiling, and vapor barriers. That can really cause drama. Open air spaces up there is a no-no unless you purposely design with no air proofing at the ceiling plane. Other reality is filling it all with fiberglass.
Yes that detail should have been noted before, this was a DIY build and both myself and the manufacturer learned a lot in the process and the engineer was fired along the way. But thats another thread.
Thanks for flagging the air voids because thats seldom addressed and more complex than it seems. Since you're clearly well versed in the matter I would appreciate your thoughs on what we were planning.
The office will be a standalone framed room not attached to the exterior walls, with the ceiling connected to the top of the partition walls. We're intentionally leaving a ventilated void between the ceiling and the existing building insulation/roof structure, open to the heated garage air on both ends. Since the garage will be maintained at 50-60°F, that void stays warm from rising heat rather than being a cold unconditioned space — so moisture accumulation and condensation on the steel should be minimal.

For the ceiling assembly itself we're planning WMP-10 faced batts between the ceiling joists with the facing oriented down toward the warm office side, then drywall/paneling directly below. Where any ceiling framing connects to the existing steel structure we'll isolate those contact points with rigid foam pads to break the thermal bridge. The high ceilings allow us to leave a good amount of space for airflow to dry the condensation. We had originally thought to do a full ceiling of XPS board with the panels on the underside but that seems like unnecssary overkill. Thoughts?
 

kyrbz

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I used Trusscore for a wall and a ceiling in a utility room. What I like about it is how lightweight it is and how fast and easy to install it is. I also like that it’s a waterproof material. What I don’t like is there’s no way to repair holes, scrapes, or scratches. Trusscore actually has a distribution warehouse in my city which is a few blocks from the distributor I purchased it from. From their warehouse to my jobsite, it arrived with quite a few scuffs and scratches. Not sure who to blame, but it didn’t arrive in the best condition.
 
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hellspcangel911

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I used Trusscore for a wall and a ceiling in a utility room. What I like about it is how lightweight it is and how fast and easy to install it is. I also like that it’s a waterproof material. What I don’t like is there’s no way to repair holes, scrapes, or scratches. Trusscore actually has a distribution warehouse in my city which is a few blocks from the distributor I purchased it from. From their warehouse to my jobsite, it arrived with quite a few scuffs and scratches. Not sure who to blame, but it didn’t arrive in the best condition.
yea i noticed that on the samples. I also heard large areas can gather a lot of static resulting in dust,hair..etc getting clung to it. I reached out to Duramax pvc, they make the same product with more options but the finish looks just as rough. Fine for a shed or wet wall but im hesitant to do such a large finished area.
 

kyrbz

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Looks wise, Trusscore is fine for a utility room or garage, but I wouldn’t use it in a finished living or office space. I haven’t really noticed any problems with static causing dust and hair to cling to it. For the ceiling in the living space of this project I’m using a 1” box rib corrugated metal panels furred below a dry wall ceiling. The electrical and fire sprinkler system will be sandwiched between the two ceiling materials

igp2.jpeg
 
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hellspcangel911

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Looks wise, Trusscore is fine for a utility room or garage, but I wouldn’t use it in a finished living or office space. I haven’t really noticed any problems with static causing dust and hair to cling to it.

igp2.jpeg
That looks great for that space.
 
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