Garage man door

[Grenztr]

I have a question about something that I already built. I am building a shop and for my man doors, I ran the jack stud down to the thresh hold of the door jam (It runs right along the stem wall) I am attaching a drawing to explain this. After more thought, of course, I have realized that this jack stud will be exposed to weather and it will eventually rot. What is the easiest fix for this without having to rip the header out and putting a longer one in. Can i just cut off the bottom two inches of the jack and attach/liquid nails a block of pvc to the bottom? Will this work? Please let me know your thoughts.

 

[nmk_61802]

If you are building, the best way would be to land both the jack and the king on the stem wall. This assumes you can get a door wide enough to fit stem wall cutout.

The alternative is to wrap the bottom of the king with aluminum trim in your preferred color.

My concrete contractor tried to use a similar detail to above at my garage doors. I told him to follow the rough opening prints I provided.

 

[Grenztr]

If you are building, the best way would be to land both the jack and the king on the stem wall. This assumes you can get a door wide enough to fit stem wall cutout.

The alternative is to wrap the bottom of the king with aluminum trim in your preferred color.

My concrete contractor tried to use a similar detail to above at my garage doors. I told him to follow the rough opening prints I provided.

The issue is, it is already built. My header is not wide enough to land the jack on the stem wall.

 

[dcg9381]

Agreed changing the header and landing the studs on the stem wall is best.

I think how "exposed" it will be depends on the type of door you put on it. I've seen a fair number of "exterior" doors where their trim is designed to cover the those studs.

If you're talking about exposure due to it touching the foundation, I get it... If I was going to do it the way you've detailed it above, I'd encase the last 12" of the jack stud in fiberglass resin. It seems to be an issue of where it touches the foundation.

 

[The Cobbler]

do you need it to pass inspection? inspected already? it shouldn't see much water if you trim the door properly , and cap it with aluminum.
pull it off and wrap it in sill gasket . replace it with pressure treated .
I don't think an inspector would allow it to be cut as jacks are supposed to be full length with no cuts .

 

[1MtnGoat]

Replace the jacks with pressure treated jacks.

 

[nadogail]

Copper Napthate and lots of paint will make your wood last longer.

 

[GreenIron]

Replace the jacks with pressure treated jacks.

If you want to use the same header, I agree. Quick and easy.

 

[Viper98912]

I'd also say put in a couple of PT studs there, and make sure you use the correct trim to keep it covered up and sealed up as best you can. Use a temp stud to jam the header in place before removing one of the jacks...

 

[Skooterj]

Assuming the header is nailed to the king studs, rip out the jack studs and replace with pressure treated lumber. If the header is not nailed to the king studs, nail it to the king studs first. Worst cast, put a temporary brace 2x4 to hold the header in place as you replace each jack stud with pressure treated. If you are worried about the weight over the header, put the brace 2x4 in, no matter the above situations.

If you are building, the best way would be to land both the jack and the king on the stem wall. This assumes you can get a door wide enough to fit stem wall cutout.

The alternative is to wrap the bottom of the king with aluminum trim in your preferred color.

My concrete contractor tried to use a similar detail to above at my garage doors. I told him to follow the rough opening prints I provided.

You also need to get a bigger door then. If it is already framed for a 36 inch door, good luck. The next regular size up if 42 inch, which would be too big if it was originally framed correctly for a 36 inch. Special sized doors are super pricey.

 

[dfiler2]

I have always framed just the way you did mainly because if you stop them at the stem wall you have to put sheathing strips on the the lower part of where the brick molding on the door would rest against the stem wall. I am trying to figure out how you would do it if you stopped the jack studs on top of the stem wall, am I missing something?

I would use pressure treated as suggested.

 

[ddawg16]

I'm assuming you are going to be buying a pre-framed door....

You need something to nail it to.

In normal construction you are going to have some type of outer protection....stucco, siding, etc.

The only thing exposed is the door frame. That is what paint is for.

 

[Skooterj]

I have always framed just the way you did mainly because if you stop them at the stem wall you have to put sheathing strips on the the lower part of where the brick molding on the door would rest against the stem wall. I am trying to figure out how you would do it if you stopped the jack studs on top of the stem wall, am I missing something?

I would use pressure treated as suggested.

I would glue the brickmold to the stem wall with construction adhesive. Put the screws for the frame as low as possible on the wood, or if the stem wall is too tall, drill a Tapcon into the side of the stem wall for the door frame.

 

[nadogail]

Why not consider a pre hung metal or fiberglass door in a metal frame, your wood rot concerns will become mute and the door will not be easily forcefully opened.