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garage plumbing help

boyack123

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Dec 6, 2016
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29
Location
southeast VA
Am drawing up plans for a detached garage. Foundation will be poured footer with 3 courses of block then the sole plate. My question is would it be to code to turn water supply 90 deg. up through footer and block then sole plate. If legal what would be the best piping to use and the best way to protect piping from concrete,mortar. Being an open floor plan I don't want to bring it up through slab. Thanks for any advice.
 
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readhead

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Dec 8, 2012
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Location
Durango, Co.
What is your location? Check with your building department. If you are in a freezing climate I would say no.
 

73RR

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Dec 13, 2016
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Location
Central Ory-Gun
I'd suggest that you ask one of the inspectors. Tell him what you have in mind and ask if it meets local code. If he says no then ask for alternatives. They cannot give design help but generally like it when asked for their thoughts.
 

matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
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Location
SE Michigan
Seeing as PEX is used to provide water-based heat in concrete floors, that's what I would use in direct contact with the concrete.
 

hefnerconstructionlc

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Nov 1, 2016
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665
Location
Kansas
Pex would be fine with concrete/mortar contact, but I would really advise not putting your plumbing in an exterior wall encased in concrete/mortar. I know its not what you want to hear. However, should you have a freeze up it will be very difficult when it does freeze up and need repair. Maybe it will maybe it won't pop and break. You may be far enough south in your climate. Given that, I would make it easy on myself and plan for the future. Good luck.
 
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ard

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Feb 16, 2015
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Sierra Foothills... California
24 years ago I poured a 10x10 pad around my well head, then built a small structure for tanks, filter, etc. Had a 2" pipe go down into the slab and connect to the water line headed to the house. Placed a spare 2" line back down through the slab in parallel to the one that was hooked up, just capped both ends, One end stubbed up, the other end out past the foundation footprint.

Had the opportunity to need it two years ago. Schedule 40 fitting had a micro crack in it, leaking enough to show. Boy did I feel smart.

Whenever I place a conduit or pipe in or through concrete, I try to install a spare.
 

Northislander

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Dec 7, 2016
Messages
479
Location
Vancouver Island
24 years ago I poured a 10x10 pad around my well head, then built a small structure for tanks, filter, etc. Had a 2" pipe go down into the slab and connect to the water line headed to the house. Placed a spare 2" line back down through the slab in parallel to the one that was hooked up, just capped both ends, One end stubbed up, the other end out past the foundation footprint.

Had the opportunity to need it two years ago. Schedule 40 fitting had a micro crack in it, leaking enough to show. Boy did I feel smart.

Whenever I place a conduit or pipe in or through concrete, I try to install a spare.
Was going to suggest the same thing or use a piece of conduit with long sweep ell so you can pull a poly water line out and replace if something goes wrong
 

Handyfarmer

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Dec 20, 2014
Messages
316
Location
in the high plains of Colorado
I would put in a piece of PVC electrical conduit and a sweep, and put the water pipe in that, if at all possible I would nearly always sleeve things in a footer or concrete wall, could save a lot problems later,

and I would not run it up in an exterior wall if your in areas that freeze or have winter. run it below frost line and then up on the inside of the wall,

If the concrete is exposed to the exterior, it will normally match the temperature of the exterior, or at least some of it.
 

BADSIX

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Nov 30, 2010
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Location
oregon coast
I would put in a piece of PVC electrical conduit and a sweep, and put the water pipe in that, if at all possible I would nearly always sleeve things in a footer or concrete wall, could save a lot problems later,

and I would not run it up in an exterior wall if your in areas that freeze or have winter. run it below frost line and then up on the inside of the wall,

If the concrete is exposed to the exterior, it will normally match the temperature of the exterior, or at least some of it.

^^^100% on the elect. conduit with the water pipe inside
Jay D.
 

Firebrick43

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Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
14,101
Location
West central Indiana
Have you thought about ICF for your footer wall? It looks expensive at first but when you factor the cost to insulate a Cmu wall and grout it's pretty comparable. It's much easier DIY especially for a stub wall and is stronger than a comparable thickness Cmu/grouted wall. Plus if you just have to run your plumbing through the wall you can (before pouring) as its insulated, I however would still suggest coming up through the slab
 
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boyack123

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Dec 6, 2016
Messages
29
Location
southeast VA
Great suggestions, Thanks all. Looks like up through slab it is. Now to properly aim for the interior bathroom wall..
 
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