Garage/Pole Barn shopping

[carguytroy]

Hello all I'm a new guy to the forum and I have been shopping for a shop/garage/pole barn. I have few general questions. The place I've somewhat settled on to put up the building has quoted 26500.00 for a 30' deep x 40' wide pole barn(metal building). That's two garage doors, 12 foot eaves, a couple of man doors and a couple of windows. They do the cement and put up the structure but I'm on my own for gas, electrical, and plumbing. For another $6000 I can go to 16 ft eaves. I want to but a 4 post lift and possibly a two post in the other bay. So the questions are:

Does the pricing seem about right? I'm located in Utah.

Is the 12 foot eave high enough for the car lifts or do I need to go 16?

I guess I'll start with those. Thanks for letting me join.

 

[brownbagg]

i didnt think you shop for pole barn, I thought you just went to the local feed and seed and bought some poles, metals and couple 2x

 

[carguytroy]

It's a metal building but they are like a pole barn. All open. This is the place

http://www.roperbuildings.com

Real friendly, seem like good folks.

 

[larry_g]

i didnt think ..snip

fixed it for you.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[matt_i]

I would integrate the main electrical feed pathway, at least the conduit rough-in part, as the foundation is built.

You also want to think about insulation if you're ever going to have heat or AC.

I would also recommend the PermaColumn setup for longevity.

 

[astroracer]

Verify they can pour 4" of 3500PSI concrete for your slab and you will be good for both the 4 post and 2 post lifts. This is what BendPak's site recommends for concrete for their 2 post 9K to 14K lifts.
This will most likely be a floating slab poured inside the rat walls wrapping the lower parts of your post structure. There is no "foundation" to run electrical through. It's easy enough to hang the service on a pole inside and drop a line from a utility pole placed outside the building.
If you are paying an electrician to wire the shop talk to him BEFORE the structure is built to get some insight as to what he would like to see to make his job easier.
And, if you are going with the lifts, keep your OH doors 6' off the inside walls. Maneuvering tools and equipment around a lift that is stuck right up against a wall is hard enough but doing this also gives you useable workbench and storage space along those walls.
Mark

 

[carguytroy]

The initial estimate says 4" of concrete. And I guess they do some sort of provision for electrical(pvc tube it says). Insulation wise it says R19.
Would 12" eaves be tall enough for the lift? 12 foot to the bottom of the trusses.

And does 26500.00 sound reasonable? Or could I buy one of these kits I see and save a bit of dough?

 

[BoostedOne]

12 foot eaves would be plenty. Its 11 foot to the bottom chord of my trusses, my lift cross bar just pokes up between two trusses. I can lift a car with the hood open to the top and not hit.

 

[sleek98]

Depends which way the the rafters run. But there are a few lifts that will work with 12 foot ceilings. If you are wanting a clear floor model pick one out and get exact measurements. It might be 12' 1" which the builder could help make. Dont want to assume your getting 12' inside if they mean 11' 8" inside after they pour the 4" concrete.

I have 12 foot to the ceiling and my 4 post goes all the way up with a car, a truck would hit.

 

[ckyle29]

This is an excellent point. Many contractors will quote you ceiling height without a floor. Install a floor, maybe a ceiling and some lights and your lift no longer fits. If it were me, I would go 14 foot minimum. You only get one chance to build it right, so take your time and think about not only what you want to do with it now, but also what you MIGHT want to do in the future and build it for that.