garage pull-down stairs - treated wood?

[sas05]

I had pull-down stairs installed in my garage about 4years ago (recommended by the contractor). I saved a section that was cut to fit the height/floor and have left it outside to weather so I could break it into smaller pieces with intent to burn in my fireplace (woodstove insert).

Is this safe to burn? I cannot tell if it was treated or not.

I realize it may be just safer to discard -- but I try to re-use/recycle where I can.

Welcome any comments,


Sarah

 

[mike93lx]

Cant imagine why it would be PT if it was designed for interior use.

 

[wssix99]

Construction wood (because it is dried in a kiln) is generally not safe to burin in a fireplace or stove. (This should be covered in your stove's instructions and warnings.) This wood burns hotter than firewood.

Best to save it for a bonfire.

 

[JSGAuto]

Construction wood (because it is dried in a kiln) is generally not safe to burin in a fireplace or stove. (This should be covered in your stove's instructions and warnings.) This wood burns hotter than firewood.

Best to save it for a bonfire.

I have never read that. Dryer wood is significantly safer to burn then wet wood.

There is a significant market for kiln dried firewood, due to its superior heating properties.

If it's not treated/stained/painted....burn it!

 

[Rc_Guy]

I have never read that. Dryer wood is significantly safer to burn then wet wood.

There is a significant market for kiln dried firewood, due to its superior heating properties.

If it's not treated/stained/painted....burn it!

Yeah, I see more firewood guys using kilns now than years ago. They dry it quicker to keep up with demand.

 

[wssix99]

I have never read that. Dryer wood is significantly safer to burn then wet wood.

It will depend on the stove or fire place. I understand the limitation is not so much about the fireplace but he insulated (temperature sensitive) chimney systems that accompany wood burning stoves and modern fire places.

Yeah, I see more firewood guys using kilns now than years ago. They dry it quicker to keep up with demand.

These operations dry the wood close to seasoned hardwood. Nothing close to the (low) moisture content of construction wood.

 

[CraigStu]

On the chance that some of the above warnings could bite you, why not mix in one of these pieces per 4 or 5 of whatever you normally burn?

 

[kinglake]

Construction wood (because it is dried in a kiln) is generally not safe to burin in a fireplace or stove. (This should be covered in your stove's instructions and warnings.) This wood burns hotter than firewood.

Best to save it for a bonfire.

You got any example at all where a wood stove manufacturer states this? It's ridiculous.

 

[The Cobbler]

I've never heard of not burning KD lumber. how is that any different than burning very well seasoned firewood , it may have more creosote than a good hardwood but other than that I don't see an issue. I doubt that a forensic team could tell what you were burning other thaan more or less creosote .
as far as OP question, you can probably tell on a fresh end cut if the wood was treated , but if any doubt, toss it.

 

[wssix99]

You got any example at all where a wood stove manufacturer states this? It's ridiculous.

Here you go.




... I realize that general reading of instructions is challenging for a lot of people and many would rather B.S. about stuff online instead of taking heed of what the manufacturers direct.

This type of instruction is even more problematic because its in the "Cautions" section of the instructions, which people typically don't read even when they do "read" the instructions.

Fair Disclosure -> I probably would have glanced over this section myself when I installed my most recent fireplace had I not got into a detailed conversation about fuel/logs with a salesman at a specialty fireplace shop. (I also had to be attune to temperatures with my insulated flue and some tight tolerances between it and some wood structures in the house.)

^ Again, I understand that this is a greater concern for modern fireplaces with insulated flues and wood burning stoves. Old school fireplaces should be more tolerant to the heat and I would expect that some (high end) wood burning stoves would be specially engineered to burn anything.

 

[The Cobbler]

Construction wood (because it is dried in a kiln) is generally not safe to burin in a fireplace or stove. (This should be covered in your stove's instructions and warnings.) This wood burns hotter than firewood.

but that statement is quite different from the posted clip

 

[wssix99]

but that statement is quite different from the posted clip

How is that? I pointed out that construction wood is trier and burns hotter. The Caution says the same thing a different way - the construction wood will overheat and damage the fireplace.

 

[The Cobbler]

"generally not safe to use", and "your only supply of fuel" to me are quite different. but to each their own.

 

[wssix99]

Ah. I see. I wouldn't think that burning a single 2X4 would be the end of the world in one of these fireplaces. (Obviously, using a steady supply of construction lumber would be.)

Is an entire set of attic stairs out of bounds? I'm not sure anyone would guarantee that. One stick at a time, mixed with seasoned firewood is probably OK. I would think that burning the entire stairs straight-up (without firewood) would make things hot.

^ For the OP, I think the most interesting thing would be to check their manufacturer's instructions and see what it says.

 

[rayra]

How is that? I pointed out that construction wood is trier and burns hotter. The Caution says the same thing a different way - the construction wood will overheat and damage the fireplace.

pedantry and a lack of knowledge or life experience is a bad combination.
At first I thought you were pulling the OP's leg. Now it seems you were being serious.
THere's no issue feeding some "kiln dried" lumber into a fireplace. Just what in the Hell do you think "seasoned" firewood is?

besides which - and this is for the OP as well - 'treated' lumber is a specific term in construction. It means chemically infused to reduce damage from moisture in ground contact and from insects. And it is typically only used in the bottom sill plate in walls, on the slab. It's not in ceiling joists / rafters. Not unless somebody did something weird in the original construction.
And for wssix99 - treated doesn't mean kiln dried.
And too, KD wood isnt used very often. Most framing lumber is green. It's only KD when someone specifies it or for a very particular purpose.

 

[Stuart in MN]

The original poster is talking about a short piece of stairs that was trimmed off the bottom when it was installed. It's not treated and it's not an entire stair, it's a essentially a bit of kindling. If he tosses it in the fireplace along with a log or two it won't make a bit of difference.

 

[BigGarage]

I had pull-down stairs installed in my garage about 4years ago (recommended by the contractor). I saved a section that was cut to fit the height/floor and have left it outside to weather so I could break it into smaller pieces with intent to burn in my fireplace (woodstove insert).

Is this safe to burn? I cannot tell if it was treated or not.

I realize it may be just safer to discard -- but I try to re-use/recycle where I can.

Welcome any comments,


Sarah

 

[mike93lx]

Sarah's another one and done

 

[BigGarage]

Sarah's another one and done

I didn't believe anything written in post #1 since I first saw it. All of the big, strong, knowledgeable, virile men here always want to help out a helpless female though.

Clues were all through post #1:


I had pull-down stairs installed in my garage about 4years ago (recommended by the contractor).Quite a few females deal with contractors all the time. Riggggggght. I saved a section that was cut to fit the height/floor and have left it outside to weather Waits 4 years then asks the question. so I could break it into smaller pieces with intent to burn in my fireplace (woodstove insert).<<<<<-------Qualifies the statement to ensure trustworthiness

Is this safe to burn? I cannot tell if it was treated or not.

I realize it may be just safer to discard -- but I try to re-use/recycle where I can. How does burning maybe 2 lbs. of wood qualify as recycling?

Welcome any comments,
Sarah <<<<<<<<<-------------------Biggest clue, a weak, needy, helpless female needs help from the men.

 

[mike93lx]

I didn't believe anything written in post #1 since I first saw it. All of the big, strong, knowledgeable, virile men here always want to help out a helpless female though.

Clues were all through post #1:


I had pull-down stairs installed in my garage about 4years ago (recommended by the contractor).Quite a few females deal with contractors all the time. Riggggggght. I saved a section that was cut to fit the height/floor and have left it outside to weather Waits 4 years then asks the question. so I could break it into smaller pieces with intent to burn in my fireplace (woodstove insert).<<<<<-------Qualifies the statement to ensure trustworthiness

Is this safe to burn? I cannot tell if it was treated or not.

I realize it may be just safer to discard -- but I try to re-use/recycle where I can. How does burning maybe 2 lbs. of wood qualify as recycling?

Welcome any comments,
Sarah <<<<<<<<<-------------------Biggest clue, a weak, needy, helpless female needs help from the men.

Thanks for the thorough analysis. Your efforts are valuable

 

[BigGarage]

Thanks for the thorough analysis. Your efforts are valuable

Looking at post #2 explains this post.

It took hardly any effort and only required a slightly higher than room temperature IQ which I barely have.

Dennis

 

[Zeke]

Sarah's another one and done

Yeah, a lot of discussion over a bot generated question. I guess if I don't like it I can stop reading forums which I plan to do. But one car forum that I moderated for a few months placed every first post in a mod section to be approved. That is an excellent way to kill this unless member count raises revenues.

 

[Jazz1]

Here you go.




... I realize that general reading of instructions is challenging for a lot of people and many would rather B.S. about stuff online instead of taking heed of what the manufacturers direct.

This type of instruction is even more problematic because its in the "Cautions" section of the instructions, which people typically don't read even when they do "read" the instructions.

Fair Disclosure -> I probably would have glanced over this section myself when I installed my most recent fireplace had I not got into a detailed conversation about fuel/logs with a salesman at a specialty fireplace shop. (I also had to be attune to temperatures with my insulated flue and some tight tolerances between it and some wood structures in the house.)

^ Again, I understand that this is a greater concern for modern fireplaces with insulated flues and wood burning stoves. Old school fireplaces should be more tolerant to the heat and I would expect that some (high end) wood burning stoves would be specially engineered to burn anything.

I have similar instructions with my Pacific Energy wood stove. I only use pallets, construction wood for kindling as well and still ended up with some cracks in my stove after 10 years(lts 20 years old now) The stove box has lifetime warranty and after some haggling with point of origin seller who wanted me to bring stove in for repair,,he opted to give me $200 to weld cracks myself. (white chalk marks is crack locations)