Garage Ramp Build

[bobdole4u2]

Well I've been debating a design for my garage ramp for about 2 months now. I finally just went at it. It has to be shallow enough for the GTO headers to clear the break and strong enough for that 3000 lb car. I'm no engineer, but they have a ramp calculator at https://www.discountramps.com/car-loading-ramp-calculator/a/b66/

Cross my fingers.

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[ezover]

that will hold a 3k car and then some. really only a small portion of the weight will be on it at the same time.

what type of floor do you have in there?

 

[bobdole4u2]

That's VCT

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[matt_i]

You can always double or triple the ribs up on the "track width" where the wheels will likely roll. It looks like a good design so far.

 

[xyster101]

A little late now for this, I agree that the area the wheels roll over could be doubled up. The part of the ramp touching the ground is going to sink over the years. Really it should have been dug down 6 inches and filled with gravel for drainage. When it rains the ground will be soft and it will sink over time.
Nothing that could not be fixed if it did sink over time.

It does not look like you have a Z flashing on the top of the ledger board or joist hangers. How did you attach the joists to the ledger board? I know most of the weight will be on the blocks, but those will sink over time unless they are on a bed of gravel. Last thing you want is the $500 ramp to fail and cause $2,000 damage.
How many times a month are you driving on this?

 

[bobdole4u2]

2 or 4 times a month with the car. Maybe. More often than that with the motorcycle. I debated going all out with footings but the soil is sand on top of hard pan and that area holds water in a heavy rain and I figured it was packed as packed can be. I cut the turf out.

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[Bretny]

Did you use GC pressure treated lumber?
Personaly i wouldnt have cut the angle in the bottom. Your now relying on 2x2 at the bottom of the ramp. Thats going to be the weakest part and sink badly over time.

 

[maxpat82]

My dad have a pit in his garage and park his car on the pannel that cover it and it's made out of 2x6 with like 32" span. no issue whatsoever.

He just replace the board after 30years!

I would not be concern at all. if it ever sink just lift it up and refill.

good job!

 

[xyster101]

Looks to be PT lumber. It will work great and the car is not going far in the air. My concern is sinking into the dirt. If it does that after a few years it is half a days work to raise it back up. Strength wise, it will be strong enough.

 

[Bretny]

Theres PT then theres Ground Contact PT. They are not the same.

 

[bobdole4u2]

Yes, it is GC lumber. I got that specifically.

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[bbxlr8]

I did basically the same design but it was a bit steeper and shorter on mine. Keep my jeep and a ford tractor and use it all the time for 10Y now. You should be fine and as others have said, no big deal to lift and fill if not (maybe w/ some fine gravel?)

 

[bad_idea]

If I may suggest. If it sinks, dig under each rib a hole about 12" deep and fill with concrete.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Being in the Southern areas like you, I leave the joist runners full size except at the very bottom, where I cut a 16” flat at the proper angle. Then I dig a trench for each runner to go into, with a 4x8x16 solid cement block sunk into the ground using a flat shovel for an undisturbed bottom. I also set the ledger board on blocks for extra support. I have done several over the years and they have done well. A couple have even been relocated and reset during moves.

 

[Falcon67]

Nicely done. I just used rock.

 

[Mr. Roboto]

I'm sure it will be fine, but....

When you cut PT wood, you should treat the cuts with a copper preservative. I use This The reason for this, is the chemical they treat the wood with doesn't penetrate all the way into the center. In your case, you have a very large, potentially un-treated cut in direct contact with the ground that could rot over time. Treating that cut will help extend the life of the wood.

Some say it's overkill, but I don't think it is in this case.