Garage rebuild - design considerations

[Court_in_Dallas]

I have a 20 x 20 garage-shop that is in a deteriorated state that I will be rebuilding sometime in the coming months. There is a slab, and for other reasons too, I am confined to the existing space.

It sits behind my house in a residential area in Dallas, Texas. There is about ten feet on the back side where there is not a slab that I thought would be converted in a covered, partially enclosed or open sided storage area.

As I will be designing it myself, I wanted to reach out and see what kind of cautions any of you would have, or what must haves that you all would include in the design. Basically, I am trying to get it as close to right as possible.

I will have electricity run to it, and possibly climate control.

The shop will be used for wood working and general man-cave garage tinkering and hanging out.

Thanks.

 

[DeadSock]

A few thoughts:

Frame out for an overhead door even if you don't plan on installing one.

The backside area sounds ideal for compressor location and garden/yard stuff (means more room in the workshop)

Storage trusses are nice for the obvious reasons.

Check zoning requirements. The "deteriorated" building could be "rebuilt" (i.e. Leave one wall standing) and avoid some headaches over a complete razing of the building. Also, go as high as possible.

 

[Cyberbear]

Without pictures of the existing structure and location, it is rather difficult to imagine what you are dealing with. Since you describe a total rebuild is in order, pouring additional slab work to use the rear footage is a good idea, and could possibly be later enclosed if needed.
Also consider going two story, or a loft for additional storage. A small 20 x 20 shop is limiting for woodworking machinery, tooling, cabinets, etc. Your building limitations can be affected by building codes in your area, but often variances can be obtained if needed w/o harm to adjoining properties, depending on your particular application and construction density. Once you have some features in place, others can be applied gradually over time to improve the structures usefulness. I've seen patios become enclosed spaces, etc.

 

[matt_i]

If you intend climate control, I recommend 2x6 walls despite the extra cost of the timber. The thicker walls will pay off down the road, if you intend to go that route.

You might need help assessing the existing concrete's capacity to build upon, it would be worth it to me to dig a test hole at one point around the perimeter to see if there is any kind of grade beam present. I would use epoxied anchors for the treated sole plate despite the extra cost, they won't put any stress into the concrete other than what's applied by sideways loads on the building (wedge anchor always has the concrete loaded, in compression which is generally good, but they can be the source of cracks).

I'd plan the utility penetration first and get at least the pipe setup

 

[gnpenning]

Add extra pipe under the footing for water, or something in the future you may want to add.

Make sure you add plenty of power for 220v equipment you may decide you want in the future. Maybe even a drain for a future sink.

While this being your first post you've been a member for while so I would guess you have checked out some other builds and made notes what things you like.

 

[matt_i]

In my earlier post I guess I thought I read you were trying to reuse the existing slab. If its within the budget, by all means demo and build the foundation to your liking.

Other considerations would be recommendations for ridge + soffit venting, gutters, architectural shingles, and low-maintenance siding and trim, like vinyl. Better yet, make it match your house.

You probably have to make a decision between a 60A service and a 100A service. Guessing the smaller would be appropriate for lights and woodworking machinery. Definitely want 220vac if any kind of tablesaw, jointer or planer is going to be used if you ask me.