Garage recommendation

[pattheriault]

Hi im planning a garage this coming summer and would like some input on sizing.

My current plans is for a 24x30x12ft. one 16x10 door on the 24 side. with a loft.

Used for the garage will be for working on car / toys / full size truck (one at a time) Won't be used to park vehicule.

Will also need to house work bench and tools. and storage for lawn mower, snow blower, atv and 2 snowmobile. I Do not want to have to move any of the stuff around to be able to get a vehicule in and work on it. and don't want to have to move 3 machine to get the last one out.

any body with similar situation or garage can comment on the size they have? I know we should always go as big as we can but i'm trying to keep the cost down. I currently have a 26x26 that serve as parking for 2 vehicule thats I might be able to store a few item in also.

 

[glentre]

Suggest you lay out your floor dimensions on graph paper and make scale cutouts to represent all your toys, benches and machines. Then move them around on the paper to determine how your plan will work. At first glance, looks like you will have a very crowded garage.

Glen

 

[bdbecker]

...Will also need to house work bench and tools. and storage for lawn mower, snow blower, atv and 2 snowmobile. I Do not want to have to move any of the stuff around to be able to get a vehicule in and work on it. and don't want to have to move 3 machine to get the last one out...

I think you will have a tough time storing all that stuff and having a place to work on a vehicle without shuffling things around. If you are wondering how everything might fit, I'd suggest getting some graph paper and cutting out footprints of all your stuff so you can play around with different configurations.

I think that space would be a great size if it were just a workshop, but also storing the toys and equipment will probably make it too tight.

 

[sz0k30]

Suggest you lay out your floor dimensions on graph paper and make scale cutouts to represent all your toys, benches and machines. Then move them around on the paper to determine how your plan will work. At first glance, looks like you will have a very crowded garage.

When you are trying to figure out layouts, the quote above IS ALWAYS THE BEST ADVISE!!!

 

[finn]

12’ seems short for a loft, and is too short if you eventually want a lift.

I built the garage at the shop 32x54’, with three courses of split faced block, and 10’ studs on top, giving a little over 13’ height.

 

[pattheriault]

12’ seems short for a loft, and is too short if you eventually want a lift.

I built the garage at the shop 32x54’, with three courses of split faced block, and 10’ studs on top, giving a little over 13’ height.

12' is the height of the shop. loft will be on top of that.

 

[pattheriault]

Like most of you suggested ill draw everything out tonight and see where that brings me.

 

[astroracer]

24' is going to be narrow to have a full size truck IN the shop and have working (even walking room) around the vehicle. You have to remember (and I say this every time) your 24' x 36' dimensions are to the OUTSIDE of the building. Your interior dimensions are going to be about 1' smaller.
Also for your loft, look into loft or attic trusses. A building that size will probably be 1100 or 1200 dollars over the cost of conventional trusses.
AND... Keep your OH door at least 4' of the INSIDE wall. If you install a lift this will give you working and walking room around the post.
Another point to consider is concrete. If you want a 2 post hoist there is nothing special you need to do other then verify you have a full 4" of 3000psi concrete after the pour. BendPak's site specifies this for concrete requirements. Nothing is said about rebar or wire mesh. These can be added of course but are not required for a small hoist.
Mark

 

[pattheriault]

24' is going to be narrow to have a full size truck IN the shop and have working (even walking room) around the vehicle. You have to remember (and I say this every time) your 24' x 36' dimensions are to the OUTSIDE of the building. Your interior dimensions are going to be about 1' smaller.
Also for your loft, look into loft or attic trusses. A building that size will probably be 1100 or 1200 dollars over the cost of conventional trusses.
AND... Keep your OH door at least 4' of the INSIDE wall. If you install a lift this will give you working and walking room around the post.
Another point to consider is concrete. If you want a 2 post hoist there is nothing special you need to do other then verify you have a full 4" of 3000psi concrete after the pour. BendPak's site specifies this for concrete requirements. Nothing is said about rebar or wire mesh. These can be added of course but are not required for a small hoist.
Mark

Yes loft will be living trusses.
I understant that im loosing about a foot with a 2x6 wall structure but a truck is about 7ft leaving me with roughly 8ft on each side of the truck. Even with cabinet on both side i should still have roughly 6ft.

The way i see it i will be tighter on the depth than the width.

The way i was looking at it is like a 2 bay garage. 1 bay for storage and 1 bay for working. I do currently have most of my tools and toy in a 26x26 and im still able to get the truck in a work on it. 26 depth is what restrict me in that garage

 

[TractorJeff]

When I was figuring out my Shop upgrade. Wife and I hauled nearly everything out there that is a foot print. Then staked it with String and then studied the dimension and door orientation.

 

[Shiftless]

When I was figuring out my Shop upgrade. Wife and I hauled nearly everything out there that is a foot print. Then staked it with String and then studied the dimension and door orientation.

That’s the best idea. More work than scale drawings of course, but when the reality of the size of your stuff hits you, you can make decisions.

You say that the shop will have 12 foot ceilings and then the loft is on top of that, it seems like your 24 foot wide building will be almost as tall as it is wide. Is that OK?

 

[pattheriault]

That’s the best idea. More work than scale drawings of course, but when the reality of the size of your stuff hits you, you can make decisions.

You say that the shop will have 12 foot ceilings and then the loft is on top of that, it seems like your 24 foot wide building will be almost as tall as it is wide. Is that OK?

Attic trusses will give me a 12ft by 6.6ft size room above the garage. and the roof will have roughly 9'6" so a total height approx. 22ft.

 

[Don1357]

My garage is 24x36, 9' first floor, 18" floor trusses, 4' knee wall for the loft, 10/12 roof pitch. The loft covers 2/3rds of the building, the last 1/3rd is for the eventual lift. Because of the dimensions it looks chubby...

I would suggest a full 36' long if you can get away with it, and open trusses like in the attached photo. that's a bit like mine, I have a steeper pitch.

 

[pattheriault]

I started playing a bit in sketchup. looks like a might be looking at 28x32 26x32 or 26x34 or maybe even 24x36. (24x36 was my original plans but was trying to keep cost down a bit.

what do you guys think? deeper, wider or square? anybody got similar setup and would like to share their experience?

I dont have any restriction as far as building space or rules in the area that im in. only restriction is budget. I do want the OH door on the gable end as that will look better with my house.

 

[OJKD]

Just the plain old, as big as you can here.

Just finished my garage, 850sqft+loft(430). That was all I could fit on our lot within code. I thought I was set for life. Not big enough.

 

[glentre]

If you have no code or land restrictions, you will be happier in the long run if you re-think your budget and start with the biggest garage shell you can with the money you have now. Then, build it out later as more cash becomes available.

Glen

 

[CraigStu]

I have 28deep by 32 wide.
20190320_125351 by craig stuard, on Flickr
Kind of a 3 car but just 2 car + shop area. Works fine for us since I made the underside of the deck storage for the mower and other yard ****. 2 cars in the middle, and along the walls a lathe, 2 band saws, drill press, weld table, band sander on a small roll around cabinet, 1 real wide and one 40" tool box. Works great for me but I don't have all the extra toys you have.

 

[cyulst2]

I am in the process of lining up my 36x40 shop. Opted for 40 wide and 36 deep, my thoughts are to have a shop on the left side of my building and all the toys will be pulled in through the right side that will have most likely a 16ft door. Will also have a small 9ft door to the left for dirt bikes/ four wheelers if the cars are parked in there. I'm still in graph paper phase myself.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

In my shop (24 by 50) I try to keep a 16 by 22 area empty in order to able to pull in a full size pickup and work on it. As you have discovered, that is not enough depth. If you have the work area centered in the door opening and center the truck in it, you have only 4 feet on each side to navigate your equipment in and out, assuming you don't have a jack or other equipment in the way. You will be happier if you add a second door for the equipment.

 

[ddawg16]

Mine is 20x25....2-story

I would suggest building a shed for the lawn tools....you could build one on the side of the garage....make it 6-8' wide....and about 12-15' long. Keeping all the yard stuff out there will cut down on the smells and free up valuable floor space.

When planning dim, it helps to think in terms of 4' increments....this cuts down on waste...

That 12' wall is going to increase cost quite a bit. Talk to a truss manuf and find out where the 'sweet spot' is on width. Once you know what it is, you can get the most size for the $$.

Maybe you try what some guys have done...a raised portion only where the lift is. This lets you use shorter walls which is cheaper.

Since you want a loft, you could have the loft go around the raised portion...if it's an open loft, you could use the lift to raise things up to it.

 

[pattheriault]

I have 28deep by 32 wide.
20190320_125351 by craig stuard, on Flickr
Kind of a 3 car but just 2 car + shop area. Works fine for us since I made the underside of the deck storage for the mower and other yard ****. 2 cars in the middle, and along the walls a lathe, 2 band saws, drill press, weld table, band sander on a small roll around cabinet, 1 real wide and one 40" tool box. Works great for me but I don't have all the extra toys you have.

Do you have interior picture? I will never put more than one car in the garage so even with atvs and snowmobile i should be left with rougly the same amount of space as you

 

[pattheriault]

In my shop (24 by 50) I try to keep a 16 by 22 area empty in order to able to pull in a full size pickup and work on it. As you have discovered, that is not enough depth. If you have the work area centered in the door opening and center the truck in it, you have only 4 feet on each side to navigate your equipment in and out, assuming you don't have a jack or other equipment in the way. You will be happier if you add a second door for the equipment.

Ill keep that in mind for 2 door vs a large one door.

 

[pattheriault]

Mine is 20x25....2-story

I would suggest building a shed for the lawn tools....you could build one on the side of the garage....make it 6-8' wide....and about 12-15' long. Keeping all the yard stuff out there will cut down on the smells and free up valuable floor space.

When planning dim, it helps to think in terms of 4' increments....this cuts down on waste...

That 12' wall is going to increase cost quite a bit. Talk to a truss manuf and find out where the 'sweet spot' is on width. Once you know what it is, you can get the most size for the $$.

Maybe you try what some guys have done...a raised portion only where the lift is. This lets you use shorter walls which is cheaper.

Since you want a loft, you could have the loft go around the raised portion...if it's an open loft, you could use the lift to raise things up to it.

Ill reconsider the height for sure. I wanted a 10ft door but should prob be good with 9ft. Even a 10ft door i can prob get away with 8in of concrete and 10ft stud . Should give me about 11ft

 

[ddawg16]

Ill reconsider the height for sure. I wanted a 10ft door but should prob be good with 9ft. Even a 10ft door i can prob get away with 8in of concrete and 10ft stud . Should give me about 11ft

Without a doubt, do the 8" or higher stem wall. The bottom plate makes a great spot to anchor the bottom or cabinets.

NON of my cabinets touch the floor. A link to my build is in my signature.

So, if we assume you do an 8" concrete stem wall...double bottom plate (PT lumber then regular lumber), 8' studs....double top plate....that puts your ceiling at 9' 2"

Or, as you said, 10' studs....but you actually buy 12' studs and use the remaining 2' as blocking. This is how you start to save money.

But your first trip needs to be to the truss manuf and see what that 'sweet spot' is. Your truss's are going to be a good chunk of your $$

 

[wayout]

Calculate the space needed when a vehicle is lifted and then consider all the rest as unused. No need to have 12' ceiling in this unused area.
Design a mezzanine to occupy the unused area and install an overhead trolley/hoist to lift and store seasonal items such as your snowmobile and snowblower.
I have used this system for years and think it is the absolute best way to increase usable area on the cheap.