OP
I struggled getting the back piece welded on....yes, the welds look like ****.
Welds cleaned up and primed
Welds cleaned up and primed
Above 1200 Sq/FT Garage Refurb®
- Thread starter NUTTSGT
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
OP
Painted JD green.
Mounted on the JD and checked for clearance with the FEL.
Mounted on the JD and checked for clearance with the FEL.
OP
Here's the empty tool box mount.
Ammo can in the mount
Ammo can in the mount
Johanfpa
Well-known member
Nice job NuttsGT.
Are you going to paint the ammo can JD green as well or did you just use it to have a template for a tool box you are going to fabricate?
Are you going to paint the ammo can JD green as well or did you just use it to have a template for a tool box you are going to fabricate?
OP
Ammo can will stay as is. I pulled ammo out of the can so it has a little bit of sentimental value.
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
On your welder, have you checked for proper tension on the spool? If too loose when you’re welding and then when you let up the spool can freewheel and then rat nest like you’re experiencing. I’ve had the same problem before and tightening the spool solved it.
madison069
Well-known member
I haven’t used my mig welder much since I got it, but I would think something is out of time or loose and it’s allowing the spool to spin more then the amount of wire that’s coming off the spool.
mike528
Well-known member
tension may be too high on the spool, causing it to pull tight. or you just happened to get 2 spools from the same lot that wasn't wound correctly. I used to work for one of their "smaller" competitors in a plant that made hollow core wire, we weren't allowed to say the H word around the old man, some bad blood there. But we heard of a lot of quality issues coming out of Hobart by a lot of operators that left and came to work for us and stories from the salesmen.
jbmatth
Well-known member
Great idea on the ammo can tool box mount, I've been casually struggling to find a good place to mount a box on my tractor with the FEL on it. I think this may just be the perfect place, thanks for the idea. As for the spool, I was also thinking tension and would think too loose because too tight and it would struggle to feed.
JB
JB
OP
Thy first spool was fine for about the first half of the spool, then went to ****.
There was no looseness (if that's a word) in the wire. It merely can't pull the wire.
I thought it might have been too loose in the beginning and tried to tighten it up. It did nothing.
Last edited:
OP
It shouldn't be out of time, it's not that old. Like I mentioned, the wire is tight.
Even after running probably 40+ feet of wire out of the first spool, you can see how it is cross fed on the spool.
OP
There's the thing, both spools came from the same TSC store. I'm hoping it is just my dumb luck.
That's why I bought a spool of Blue Demon and a spool of Italian made wire. Both should be completely different.
OP
Back on the Mustang for a bit. She got a little warm during the NMRA race and I decided to check what thermostat was in it, if at all.
None, but it had a restrictor. Out it came and a 180° went back in it's place.
None, but it had a restrictor. Out it came and a 180° went back in it's place.
OP
I've been running the same 650 Holley DP for years. At one point, I had a small needle/seat issue and also replaced the main body with a Proform unit. I never had an issue and it worked well with the 10.5:1 306 and a 150 shot.
When this newer engine went together, it stayed on top. . . Why mess with a good thing. I had other stuff to worry about and just getting some seat time. In the last few weeks, I have been wondering, is this carb too small. I started looking at dimensions of a larger carb, like a 750.
What I came up with....The Proform main body works on 600, 650, 700 and 750 carbs. So that tells me, they are virtually the same. So I looked at the base plate, same diameter butterflies, 1 11/16". So what am I going to gain if I swap out to a new 750 DP Holley ???
So I looked at 850 DPs. Proform makes a separate main body and different than the one I have now. The butterflies are also larger at 1 3/4". I duct taped the vacuum gauge on the windshield and made a few WOT pulls. General rule of thumb, if you have vacuum at WOT, carb is too small.
Leads me to this.
When this newer engine went together, it stayed on top. . . Why mess with a good thing. I had other stuff to worry about and just getting some seat time. In the last few weeks, I have been wondering, is this carb too small. I started looking at dimensions of a larger carb, like a 750.
What I came up with....The Proform main body works on 600, 650, 700 and 750 carbs. So that tells me, they are virtually the same. So I looked at the base plate, same diameter butterflies, 1 11/16". So what am I going to gain if I swap out to a new 750 DP Holley ???
So I looked at 850 DPs. Proform makes a separate main body and different than the one I have now. The butterflies are also larger at 1 3/4". I duct taped the vacuum gauge on the windshield and made a few WOT pulls. General rule of thumb, if you have vacuum at WOT, carb is too small.
Leads me to this.
jbmatth
Well-known member
That is a thing of beauty!
JB
JB
tweet66
Member
I like that belt setup! is that something your bought or put together? Looking at the belt routing, is that a "standard" rotation water pump? I'd like to run serpentine on my 66 Mustang without having to swing over to a reverse rotation pump.
OP
It started out as a March pulleys set up. I modified it a little bit....years ago.
Check out their site, they used to have plenty of stuff and anybody can get creative.
OP
So, at work currently, but I do have some advice.
Don't buy spark plugs off Amazon. I believe the Autolite racing plugs I bought are counterfeit. The 8 I used are getting trashed and the others are going back to Amazon.
I put the used NGKs back in and it is more a solid tune than before. New NGKs are on their way from Summit at the moment.
Don't buy spark plugs off Amazon. I believe the Autolite racing plugs I bought are counterfeit. The 8 I used are getting trashed and the others are going back to Amazon.
I put the used NGKs back in and it is more a solid tune than before. New NGKs are on their way from Summit at the moment.
OP
New plugs have been delivered today by the Big Brown truck.
I had a few hours off today for a visit to the chiropractor and got a few other things done. I'm going to clean up the old plugs, make a squirter change and run through the gears to check the plugs again.
If they look better, I will swap in a new set before heading to the NMRA race this weekend.
I had a few hours off today for a visit to the chiropractor and got a few other things done. I'm going to clean up the old plugs, make a squirter change and run through the gears to check the plugs again.
If they look better, I will swap in a new set before heading to the NMRA race this weekend.
Nuttsgt- love the ammo can toolbox idea. Now how about a pintle mount for a Ma Duece?Here's the empty tool box mount.
Ammo can in the mount
OP
Maybe....if I had one.
OP
Not much going on in the last month and a half. I was dealing with a check engine light on the truck and had another issue arise.
Since my shop is smaller than appears and my truck fills up the garage space, I have to put a blanket on the hood of my truck at times when it is open.
After I replaced a shock and proceeded to hack up the truck, the hood got a kink on the edge.
So if you remember the steel rack I welded on to the I beam ?
Since my shop is smaller than appears and my truck fills up the garage space, I have to put a blanket on the hood of my truck at times when it is open.
After I replaced a shock and proceeded to hack up the truck, the hood got a kink on the edge.
So if you remember the steel rack I welded on to the I beam ?
OP
I started to take down all the steel, which was more than I thought.
I moved all my steel to the addition and it went to the top of the pallet racking.
I moved all my steel to the addition and it went to the top of the pallet racking.
OP
Then, I broke out the grinder and plasma cutter. I removed the steel rack, ground the rough off and gave it a coat of black spray paint.
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
Off with its head! I hate it when my best plans turn to ****!
OP
It wasn't too bad until I stepped up from a F150 Supercab to a F250 crew cab, both shortbeds. I gained an extra 14-18" in length.
OP
Winter is on its way and I need to get a home project past a certain point before winter arrived. I figured I would toss in a few pictures as an update for not getting anything done in the garage. I believe I have showed some of this previously.
I have to get in behind the fuel oil tank in ty basement before the furnace gets fired up. First up was draining as much as I could to move the 275 gallon tank.
Needless to say, there's a 55 gallon drum full in the house garage and four 5 gallon jugs still in the basement of fuel oil.
Once it was out of the way, I could do some measurements and drill for rebar.
I have to get in behind the fuel oil tank in ty basement before the furnace gets fired up. First up was draining as much as I could to move the 275 gallon tank.
Needless to say, there's a 55 gallon drum full in the house garage and four 5 gallon jugs still in the basement of fuel oil.
Once it was out of the way, I could do some measurements and drill for rebar.
OP
I believe I have explained this a few years before. This is basically a block veneer wall, half CMU laid up and filled with concrete behind.
Here you can see issues with the late 1800's stone foundation. I cleaned the wall with a shop vac and pulled out some smaller loose stones
Water bottle for reference.
Here you can see issues with the late 1800's stone foundation. I cleaned the wall with a shop vac and pulled out some smaller loose stones
Water bottle for reference.
OP
First couple of courses were laid up and filled. There's either 14 or 16 80lb bags in that first pour . Every pour gets rebar to tie in to the next courses.
Sunday I got more laid up. I'm not a mason nor is this like laying a regular wall. I'm having to follow a hundred plus uneven stone wall.
Yes, that small piece is a screw up filler. I should not have laid the corner block first. I'm trying to make 2 different wall planes match in this corner along with 2 different floor elevations.
When I dug this out, I never planned on doing these walls. Floor height was measured off the bottom of the floor joist as I dug it out and repaired over several years.
Sunday I got more laid up. I'm not a mason nor is this like laying a regular wall. I'm having to follow a hundred plus uneven stone wall.
Yes, that small piece is a screw up filler. I should not have laid the corner block first. I'm trying to make 2 different wall planes match in this corner along with 2 different floor elevations.
When I dug this out, I never planned on doing these walls. Floor height was measured off the bottom of the floor joist as I dug it out and repaired over several years.
RickP
Well-known member
Wow, that looks like a lot of work!
I've never seen a CMU veneer wall before, but it makes a lot of sense with that old rock foundation. My parents had the same type of rock walls in the basement of their house -- I remember the air being very dank and the mortar crumbling easily.
Nice job fixing up those old walls. I'll bet your basement will be a lot more livable when you're finished.
I've never seen a CMU veneer wall before, but it makes a lot of sense with that old rock foundation. My parents had the same type of rock walls in the basement of their house -- I remember the air being very dank and the mortar crumbling easily.
Nice job fixing up those old walls. I'll bet your basement will be a lot more livable when you're finished.
captain14
Well-known member
How much water came in after a heavy rainstorm? Some of the older houses in my neighborhood have something similar and the water runs in and then drains back afterwards.
I know previously you dug up to add some depth several years ago and poured portions of a new floor. ( BY HAND!)
I know previously you dug up to add some depth several years ago and poured portions of a new floor. ( BY HAND!)
OP
Not really sure if CMU veneer wall is a thing or just something that worked out for me. I think there's 75 block in a cube, I cut the entire cube in half, and carried them to the basement.
What started as a thin 12" wall at the bottom to cover the dirt under the stone wall became a stem wall to lay block upon.
When we bought this place, it was stone wall and dirt floor. The sump pump sat in a muddy hole. As I have worked on the basement, it has dried up and moisture level has gone down.
It's alot of work but good exercise as well. Two of the most important things I have learned,
Put a PVC or copper pipe handle on the bucket, your hand will thank you.
Make more trips up the stairs with a 3/4 full bucket rather than a heaping or full bucket. It's easier on the back and makes less mess.
OP
A few weeks ago, we got 3-4 inches overnight. The corner I'm working in, had some intrusion. Not much but I could see some dampness on the floor and where mortar/concrete dust/debris has washed.
Putting tile and gravel down under the concrete floor as I poured it has paid off.
OP
Snapped this picture of what I am looking forward to tomorrow. I'll be using a portion of these 42 bags.
madison069
Well-known member
Been there, done that, don’t envy ya.Snapped this picture of what I am looking forward to tomorrow. I'll be using a portion of these 42 bags.
Too bad you don’t have a mixer, I see the pan so I assumed you’re going to be mixing it by hand.
OP
No, the pan is for mortar and block work. It was just outside after a washout. I have a mixer, well, I have a mixer on permanent loan to me from my neighbor.
I've mixed plenty of bagged concrete for this place, usually I buy what I need for the job at hand. However, the last couple of times, it's been a pallet at a time.
captain14
Well-known member
How much further do you have to carry it to the basement? I think I remember a Bilco door entrance.
OP
No Bilco door here, no place for one. Front and west wall have wrap around porch on the outside. East wall has the garage and behind the back wall has a crawl space behind it.
West wall is done.
Front, north, wall is about done. That's the corner I'm finishing up now. Still needs one course along the top length.
East wall, I had a section done prior and thought that was good until I decided to do it all. North/East is current project.
South rear wall has about 3 courses up to right behind the stairs. This area, I'm not sure what I am doing. I considered, new pad for the stairs to sit on, build new stairs and box out a spot in the back wall for access to the crawl space.
If I do the latter, I have to consider the sill beam, and spanning it. I'm pretty positive that the 10" old beam will span a 36" opening.
OP
Since the weather was crappy and I couldn't do concrete, I moved on to another small project.
I assembled the ramps and tried to locate the safety chains sold separately on HF's website to no avail. I decided to add some bedliner for a non slip surface when wet.
I assembled the ramps and tried to locate the safety chains sold separately on HF's website to no avail. I decided to add some bedliner for a non slip surface when wet.
OP
This is what I'm using, left over from the dump trailer project.
Plan was just to do the ends and top transactions. However, I mangled the can trying to open it. So lemons make lemonade.
I coated the entire ramps.
Plan was just to do the ends and top transactions. However, I mangled the can trying to open it. So lemons make lemonade.
I coated the entire ramps.